Outcast Tired of blowing diffs with the XLX2 and 1100kv!

[Yasaboss]

I have the same set up xlx2 1100kv combo. they key is get the slop out of everything including shimming the input shaft and a shim between the 2 rear input bearings too have been a help. No bearing slop either, I've had a plastic one in there with 500k a earplug and it's had no issues in 2 months somehow lol. Been through 2 alloy arrmas, 2 HR, and a gpm. I'm just going vitavon and be done next. I had 2 plastics cases from stripping out a ring gears back to back from having trenchers and less than 30% punch stripped teeth. So was cheaper to get whole diff off jrc vs a $45 ring gear. Really helps to jack the punch up, I usually run around 60% and still pull wheelies in the K8 Exb easy with these tires. Also doesn't hurt to swap out the plastic diff bulkhead too, super cheap and can flex over time.

 

[Moirae]

I think I'm at like 75% punch control with trenchers and it still wheelies stupid easy though tbh I feel like I'm going to break something every time I do a wheelie. It's crazy how much better my o8s feels and I'm assuming it's because of the lighter tires.

I'm literally scared to wheelie the kraton

 

[Moirae]

Welp, I finally did a wheelie one too many times. finally snapped the rear dogbone for the first time. Right where it goes into the diff outdrive, the whole end piece just looks like it was cleanly cutoff. I have 2 m2c overkill dogbones so hopefully those will solve the problem.

Castle 2028 is too much strength, I never had any of these problems with my TP 56102 X_X

 

[Mirkdiggler]

Everyone trying to reinvent the wheel with random different loctites and procedures.

If.You.Stake.The.Screw.Heads.They.Mechanically.Can.Not.Loosen.On.Their.Own

2 questions brother.

How do you stake screw heads ?

Can you remove the screw after you stake it ?

Thanks

 

[Licklobster]

2 questions brother.

How do you stake screw heads ?

Can you remove the screw after you stake it ?

Thanks

Take a chisel/hammer and swage the diff metal into the screw head. This creates a mechanical lock. You can still remove it.

 

[Armarookie43]

Take a chisel/hammer and swage the diff metal into the screw head. This creates a mechanical lock. You can still remove it.

View attachment 258742

That looks like a good idea. I was taking a closer look at my ring gears, and I noticed that where the bolts go through it, the holes are elongated. I bet that doesn't help. In other words, the ring gear through holes have been torqued out of shape. That's how much power this XLX2 system has. It seems to me like my problem is might be related to that.

 

[Mirkdiggler]

Take a chisel/hammer and swage the diff metal into the screw head. This creates a mechanical lock. You can still remove it.

View attachment 258742

Thanks brother. That looks like an ar-15 bolt !! Lol

 

[stock20]

Take a chisel/hammer and swage the diff metal into the screw head. This creates a mechanical lock. You can still remove it.

View attachment 258742

Have you done this on the main diff spiral gear as well? (ARA310911)
Thx for sharing pic, btw

 

[cazrack]

Personally I don't like it if my RC's are (uncontrollable) because the throttle trigger easily makes it to wheelie and/or spin out to easy.

Understand that sometimes having maximum power is a good thing but maximum power and maximum weight will strain the drive train especially if you are throttle heavy and break things.

Curious about the Kraton 8s, regardless of what ESC you have Max 5 or XLX2 what motor size/kv is enough at its max power that would make it simply go fast and not a wheelie monster on short grass and asfalt?

 

[Moirae]

Personally I don't like it if my RC's are (uncontrollable) because the throttle trigger easily makes it to wheelie and/or spin out to easy.

Understand that sometimes having maximum power is a good thing but maximum power and maximum weight will strain the drive train especially if you are throttle heavy and break things.

Curious about the Kraton 8s, regardless of what ESC you have Max 5 or XLX2 what motor size/kv is enough at its max power that would make it simply go fast and not a wheelie monster on short grass and asfalt?

I definitely wouldn't go with the castle 2028 if thats the case. I think the TP 5670 or one of the leopard motors would be the best bet. Maybe even the hobbywing 1100kv as it's noticeably smaller than the hobbywing 800kv. You basically want to control motor size and the castle 2028 is like 112mm long while being a fat can.

TP has fat can options with 92mm length, same as leopard motors. nice and strong but not as dumb op as the castle 2028.

I just bashed with my o8s today that has a TP 5670(92mm long) 1270kv and it felt amazing. I had plenty of power to correct in the air and I could get to damn near full throttle without wheeling if I didn't want to. Geared 31/47 with stock tires. It was 50f outside and I think the motor never got over 100f with 2 fans. I could probably gear up lol.

 

[cazrack]

I have this old esc in my Stampede 4x4 VXL
https://www.robitronic.com/en/skyrc-toro-sc-120a.html

It works good on 4s, something I found useful is the throttle curve custom adjustment you can do with a usb adapter and a windows application they provide (look at the images) on the link. For me I limit start power and scale up power when its more easy to not wheelie.

A more controlled take off and power delivery when it can handle it and you can be more throttle heavy on the trigger.

Is there such a setting on any Hobbywing ESC or Castle ESC?

Thanks

 

[Moirae]

I have this old esc in my Stampede 4x4 VXL
https://www.robitronic.com/en/skyrc-toro-sc-120a.html

It works good on 4s, something I found useful is the throttle curve custom adjustment you can do with a usb adapter and a windows application they provide (look at the images) on the link. For me I limit start power and scale up power when its more easy to not wheelie.

A more controlled take off and power delivery when it can handle it and you can be more throttle heavy on the trigger.

Is there such a setting on any Hobbywing ESC or Castle ESC?

Thanks

I know you can do similar on castle esc's. I believe you can also do this on a lot of the better radios

 

[Armarookie43]

Personally I don't like it if my RC's are (uncontrollable) because the throttle trigger easily makes it to wheelie and/or spin out to easy.

Understand that sometimes having maximum power is a good thing but maximum power and maximum weight will strain the drive train especially if you are throttle heavy and break things.

Curious about the Kraton 8s, regardless of what ESC you have Max 5 or XLX2 what motor size/kv is enough at its max power that would make it simply go fast and not a wheelie monster on short grass and asfalt?

You have to calibrate the ESC . Yeah I used to love doing wheelies across the park, triple backflips, self riding, huge jumps, but all that has put so much stress on my Arrma 8s trucks, which has blown diffs, destroyed batteries, tires, and the bad crashes when you mess up. Slowly and surely I'm getting away from almost all that by taming my systems with lower punch and not using the full power all the time. I just can't afford it. Sometimes I don't even jump my stuff too high anymore. I used to think that if my rigs didn't do 50mph off road, they couldn't be fun. Nah. I was wrong. 47 mph is plenty, and I have my punch control at 100 so that I only do wheelies if I want to. I want long-term term success. I've destroyed thousands of dollars worth of stuff already. It just doesn't make sense!

 

[Mirkdiggler]

You have to calibrate the ESC . Yeah I used to love doing wheelies across the park, triple backflips, self riding, huge jumps, but all that has put so much stress on my Arrma 8s trucks, which has blown diffs, destroyed batteries, tires, and the bad crashes when you mess up. Slowly and surely I'm getting away from almost all that by taming my systems with lower punch and not using the full power all the time. I just can't afford it. Sometimes I don't even jump my stuff too high anymore. I used to think that if my rigs didn't do 50mph off road, they couldn't be fun. Nah. I was wrong. 47 mph is plenty, and I have my punch control at 100 so that I only do wheelies if I want to. I want long-term term success. I've destroyed thousands of dollars worth of stuff already. It just doesn't make sense!

Can you still do backflips easily with punch control at 100% ?

100% means zero punch correct ?

 

[Armarookie43]

Can you still do backflips easily with punch control at 100% ?

100% means zero punch correct ?

Yes I can. When I'm in the air I just pull the trigger to the max. What's harder to do is wheelies. Which is just the way I want it. I do have power at full for right now since I was jumping. I try to lower the power when I'm just driving around almost non stop with no jumps.

 

[Moirae]

Can you still do backflips easily with punch control at 100% ?

100% means zero punch correct ?

My punch control is at 75% iirc and I can wheelie and do backflips easily but I'm also using trenchers and they help a lot with that. And yea 100% means zero

 

[Armarookie43]

My punch control is at 75% iirc and I can wheelie and do backflips easily but I'm also using trenchers and they help a lot with that. And yea 100% means zero

I have punch control at 100% so I'm supposed to be at zero punch level? Something like that right? Hehe. I'm using trenchers too

 

[Moirae]

I have punch control at 100% so I'm supposed to be at zero punch level? Something like that right? Hehe. I'm using trenchers too

If being at 100% works for you thats all that matters. Tbh I was actually thinking of going to 65% but I'm definitely scared lol. I'm hoping I'll be okay with my m2c overkill driveshafts in the rear.

I really feel like I need a little more umph to get better jumps with it. Feel like I don't have a lot of run up distance to the jump, so I need to go fast as possible in short distance.

 

[Armarookie43]

If being at 100% works for you thats all that matters. Tbh I was actually thinking of going to 65% but I'm definitely scared lol. I'm hoping I'll be okay with my m2c overkill driveshafts in the rear.

I really feel like I need a little more umph to get better jumps with it. Feel like I don't have a lot of run up distance to the jump, so I need to go fast as possible in short distance.

As far as I understand, punch only matters eight at the beginning no? Whatever works for you

 

[stock20]

As far as I understand, punch only matters eight at the beginning no? Whatever works for you

From my somewhat limited experience using XLX2 w/1100kv - punch control at 100% provides LEAST amount of power when quickly(?) pulling throttle trigger. It's most noticeable when beginning at full stop, but also impacts quick throttle input at low to medium speeds.