Outcast Tired of blowing diffs with the XLX2 and 1100kv!

[stock20]

Can someone explain or point me to instructions on how to assemble the vitavon v2 diff case? Do the o-rings replace normal gasket? Where does metal washer go?

Link here

 

[Armarookie43]

Can someone explain or point me to instructions on how to assemble the vitavon v2 diff case? Do the o-rings replace normal gasket? Where does metal washer go?

Link here

Very good question. Some people here have put them together already (I'm not one of them unfortunately).

 

[Licklobster]

Washer goes on the aluminum side internally between the gear and the case because you cant have steel rotating against alum (the cap is steel, so one side is not an issue). No gasket, just o-ring seal.

 

[stock20]

Washer goes on the aluminum side internally between the gear and the case because you cant have steel rotating against alum (the cap is steel, so one side is not an issue). No gasket, just o-ring seal.

Thanks, but need to clarify. I believe you're saying the order of which items are placed on outdrive axel, internally, on the STEEL CAP side is: 1) small, stock o-ring seal 2) large Vitavon washer 3) small stock washer 4) insert pinion 5) slide on the internal side gear. Do I have it right? Nothing changes versus stock setup on large sun/spiral gear side.

White o-ring between steel cap and case
Slightly smaller black o-ring between sun/spiral gear and case. No gaskets needed on either side. Right?

Thanks!

 

[Licklobster]

yes

 

[Armarookie43]

I'm going to try out the smaller 5687 HW motor on my Outcast 8s. It should be easier on the drivetrain. I'm keeping the bigger 2028 castle motor on my K8S. I'll see what happens. Both are 1100kv motors.

 

[stock20]

yes

Thanks again. Here's what Vitavon sent me.

 

[Hammer Down]

I'm going to try out the smaller 5687 HW motor on my Outcast 8s. It should be easier on the drivetrain. I'm keeping the bigger 2028 castle motor on my K8S. I'll see what happens. Both are 1100kv motors.

View attachment 261431

It just gets hotter faster in my experience.

 

[Armarookie43]

It just gets hotter faster in my experience.

I'm going to be using the 30/47 gearing which is pretty conservative. I'll keep an eye out on temps.

 

[Hammer Down]

Zip tying a fan to the bracing helps tremendously.

 

[Armarookie43]

Zip tying a fan to the bracing helps tremendously.

View attachment 261435

Great idea. I also have a high powered fan ready to go if I need it

 

[Moirae]

I'm going to be using the 30/47 gearing which is pretty conservative. I'll keep an eye out on temps.

Will definitely be interesting with the smaller motor! My 56102 1270kv doesn't seem to get hot at all with 31/47 gearing. I'm even thinking I could gear it up a little more though I dunno how the max 5 will like that haha. You might be okay with the smaller motor but I'm also not dealing with texas heat

 

[Jmosley89]

I love my 8s Arrmas BUT I'm tired of blowing my diffs and center differential. Can you please tell me if it's me and my crazy driving? Or the 12HP XLX2 system causing these bolts to come loose after like 5 runs. Aluminum diff cases installed, I toghten them super hard and use red loctite. And they still come loose. I even degrase the bolts! Anyone else? If you don't have this problem, do you use stock electronics or what electronics do you use?

View attachment 252470View attachment 252471

Hi iam having issue also with my k8 max5 800kv this is my 3rd rear diff now and this time really took a blow

 

[Armarookie43]

Hi iam having issue also with my k8 max5 800kv this is my 3rd rear diff now and this time really took a blow

Did you change the diff cases to aluminum? I would suggest that you lower the punch level to zero on your Max 5. What tires are you using? I did change my diff cases to aluminum, but my bolts kept backing out. So I lowered the punch, gearing to see if that helps. I also installed a smaller motor on my Outcast 8s to see if that helps too. Someone mentioned to "stake the bolts". I haven't tried that yet. I want to see if my loose bolt issue is solve by taming my Outcast 8s and EXB K8S.

 

[Jmosley89]

Did you change the diff cases to aluminum? I would suggest that you lower the punch level to zero on your Max 5. What tires are you using? I did change my diff cases to aluminum, but my bolts kept backing out. So I lowered the punch, gearing to see if that helps. I also installed a smaller motor on my Outcast 8s to see if that helps too. Someone mentioned to "stake the bolts". I haven't tried that yet. I want to see if my loose bolt issue is solve by taming my Outcast 8s and EXB K8S.

Hi yes I've had the aluminium case and that just snapped my bolts just received and full brand new rear diff and yes my punch on the max 5 is high so yes going to turn that down and also iam on 39/39 800kv and iam on madmax wheels tires

Hi yes I've had the aluminium case and that just snapped my bolts just received and full brand new rear diff and yes my punch on the max 5 is high so yes going to turn that down and also iam on 39/39 800kv and iam on madmax wheels tires

 

[Armarookie43]

It just gets hotter faster in my experience.

Yup you are right. I saw 167F when I was running around non stop before my bullet adapters fell apart. And it was like 50F outside temperature with even 30/47 gearing. I'll have to put my high speed fans on the motor and try again. What I don't see is any difference between the big 2028 motor and the 5687 motor when it comes to torque and speed. I had my friend solder on some 8mm bullets. I'm done with 6.5mm to 8mm bullet adapters. They suck. On another note, speaking of the Castle 2028 motor, it looks like it fell apart today in my K8S. I'm assuming is the rotor hitting against the inside. It must be the many big jumps that I took for around a year. With that said, the Xmaxx has been going strong for THREE YEARS with many times more jumps. So the Max 5 and 1100kv 5687 on my X-Maxx has outlasted TWO XLX2 and one 2028 motor inside my Arrma 8s trucks. Sucks right? HW when it comes to bashing has been so much more durable indeed. If I were to do it again, and after my experience, I would have never gotten the Castle stuff for bashing. I'm contemplating just selling all my 3 XLX2 ESCS. I'm not even going to try to fix the 2028. And if I do, I'll sell it.

 

[Moirae]

Did you change the diff cases to aluminum? I would suggest that you lower the punch level to zero on your Max 5. What tires are you using? I did change my diff cases to aluminum, but my bolts kept backing out. So I lowered the punch, gearing to see if that helps. I also installed a smaller motor on my Outcast 8s to see if that helps too. Someone mentioned to "stake the bolts". I haven't tried that yet. I want to see if my loose bolt issue is solve by taming my Outcast 8s and EXB K8S.

Have you figured it out on your k8s yet? I actually have started to go through this now too. Really nuts how many problems just swapping motors has introduced into my life. I was having a problem with my kraton feeling like it wasn't getting full power and it took me a while to realize it was my rear diff. Screws loosened and all the diff oil just gone lol. I'm trying the red loctite now, but I know that didn't fix it for you.

 

[Armarookie43]

Have you figured it out on your k8s yet? I actually have started to go through this now too. Really nuts how many problems just swapping motors has introduced into my life. I was having a problem with my kraton feeling like it wasn't getting full power and it took me a while to realize it was my rear diff. Screws loosened and all the diff oil just gone lol. I'm trying the red loctite now, but I know that didn't fix it for you.

Maybe you should try to "steak the bolts" to the aluminum diff case like someone else mentioned here? You grab a chisel, a hammer and hit the case and the bolts so there's like a mechanical lock between the two. I'm only on run #3 with my K8S after carefully cleaning up the bolts with brake cleaner. And I used green loctite. Don't use it red, as it damages the cases when trying to take it off. The bolts just break inside the case, and they were still coming loose. Remember that I blew my 2028 in my K8S last tome I took it out. So I have to swap the motor out with the smaller 5687 HW motor. That motor needs fans though. Even with 30/47 gearing, the new Gens pro bashers have significantly increased the top speed and punch, together with the temps. But that's another story. Off topic. Sorry. The rear diff is the one that that has given me trouble the most. I think it's the insane torque of the 1100kv Castle motor the main culprit. I'm going to replace the motor, and run it two more times and check again. I'll let you know what happens. Meanwhile, you can try this? :
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/tired-of-blowing-diffs-with-the-xlx2-and-1100kv.56749/post-846368

 

[Moirae]

Maybe you should try to "steak the bolts" to the aluminum diff case like someone else mentioned here? You grab a chisel, a hammer and hit the case and the bolts so there's like a mechanical lock between the two. I'm only on run #3 with my K8S after carefully cleaning up the bolts with brake cleaner. And I used green loctite. Don't use it red, as it damages the cases when trying to take it off. The bolts just break inside the case, and they were still coming loose. Remember that I blew my 2028 in my K8S last tome I took it out. So I have to swap the motor out with the smaller 5687 HW motor. That motor needs fans though. Even with 30/47 gearing, the new Gens pro bashers have significantly increased the top speed and punch, together with the temps. But that's another story. Off topic. Sorry. The rear diff is the one that that has given me trouble the most. I think it's the insane torque of the 1100kv Castle motor the main culprit. I'm going to replace the motor, and run it two more times and check again. I'll let you know what happens. Meanwhile, you can try this? :
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/tired-of-blowing-diffs-with-the-xlx2-and-1100kv.56749/post-846368

haha man I don't even own a hammer and if I did I'd be scared to try that. I'm really hoping I can get them to stick without going that route. Hopefully I have better luck with the red loctite than you did. I'm starting to think I forgot to even add any the first time I did the alu diff case. Hopefully thats the case because I was already running 70-75% punch control when this happened so I'm thinking I had to have been lacking some loctite in the first place.

I really want to get back out to the park for another test bash but the weather been horrible as of late.

 

[Armarookie43]

haha man I don't even own a hammer and if I did I'd be scared to try that. I'm really hoping I can get them to stick without going that route. Hopefully I have better luck with the red loctite than you did. I'm starting to think I forgot to even add any the first time I did the alu diff case. Hopefully thats the case because I was already running 70-75% punch control when this happened so I'm thinking I had to have been lacking some loctite in the first place.

I really want to get back out to the park for another test bash but the weather been horrible as of late.

Yeah. Even with 100% punch control, if I'm not careful, I can wheelie and probably do an unintended backflip with these gens pro basher batteries. Luckily the beat up powerhobby. batteries still work well with my X-Maxx. But they don't work well at all with the K8S and the XLX2. That system doesn't tolerate old batteries at all. I mean, the K8 will run and everything, but very underwhelming. And top speed was 47mph on grass, compared to 60 mph with the gens basher pros.