Big Rock Tires/Wheels Suggestion For Big Rock

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Hi guys, latest update... i found a 3d print file from a member with paddle tyres. I had these printed out last week from TPU plastic and are now mounted on my old, original Big Rock rims, bit of a pain to fit, but they are done. Gonna find out how they do this weekend. Here is a pic.

IMG-20221129-WA0026.jpg
 
I tested the wheels out, it works well, but now my clutch is slipping. I've tightened it numerous time but works for a bit then slips. Plates must be in their way out
 
Just needed adjustment, works great now. Except, one of the GPM drive axels has seized, I opened them up and it looks like the ball joint closer to the wheel has opened up a bit and prevents the wheel from running a complete turn. Been online looking for replacements but no one ships to where I am anymore. I guess, i;ll finally try to get the AR310870 from Arrma directly (if I can find them) and give those a go instead. I won't go back to composite....they snap and twist too quick for me.
 
Just needed adjustment, works great now. Except, one of the GPM drive axels has seized, I opened them up and it looks like the ball joint closer to the wheel has opened up a bit and prevents the wheel from running a complete turn. Been online looking for replacements but no one ships to where I am anymore. I guess, i;ll finally try to get the AR310870 from Arrma directly (if I can find them) and give those a go instead. I won't go back to composite....they snap and twist too quick for me.
When you say it just needed an adjustment what did you do? Exactly? I thought I read earlier that you were tightening the clutch and it was still backing off. So what other adjustment is there? Thank you.
 
When you say it just needed an adjustment what did you do? Exactly? I thought I read earlier that you were tightening the clutch and it was still backing off. So what other adjustment is there? Thank you.
The slipper spring had snapped, it was twisted when I thought I had tightened it, but when i stripped it open the actual spring needed replacing, sorry for confusion
 
The slipper spring had snapped, it was twisted when I thought I had tightened it, but when i stripped it open the actual spring needed replacing, sorry for confusion
Thank you for clearing that up. That’s good information.
 
The slipper spring had snapped, it was twisted when I thought I had tightened it, but when i stripped it open the actual spring needed replacing, sorry for confusion
Over the last few years, I’ve had half a dozen or more 3S cars. I’ve learned with the slipper to always very carefully hand tighten it. Not only can the hub threads be stripped but the little brass ring can pop off. I don’t use the ‘roll it on the carpet till the wheels drag’ or ‘hand tighten it all the way and then back it off‘ methods. I hand tighten to where I start feeling resistance, tighten it a bit more very carefully and test it in the car. if it screams it’s too loose.

I try to get it to where I can hear it chirping a few times before engaging. It’s easy to adjust while it’s in the car by removing the driveshaft and running a 2mm driver off the spur hub. Then hold the wheels while gently turning the driver. It’ll turn ‘clunky like’ a couple times before engaging. I only tighten a quarter to half return at a time.

The purpose of the thing is to ease the shock of accelerating/braking to drive train. On my cars that have all stock drivetrain I actually run it a little bit loose because spur pads are cheaper than driveshaft and differentials. They can be sanded a couple of times (wear a mask), the ones that press into the spur itself can be flipped.
 
Over the last few years, I’ve had half a dozen or more 3S cars. I’ve learned with the slipper to always very carefully hand tighten it. Not only can the hub threads be stripped but the little brass ring can pop off. I don’t use the ‘roll it on the carpet till the wheels drag’ or ‘hand tighten it all the way and then back it off‘ methods. I hand tighten to where I start feeling resistance, tighten it a bit more very carefully and test it in the car. if it screams it’s too loose.

I try to get it to where I can hear it chirping a few times before engaging. It’s easy to adjust while it’s in the car by removing the driveshaft and running a 2mm driver off the spur hub. Then hold the wheels while gently turning the driver. It’ll turn ‘clunky like’ a couple times before engaging. I only tighten a quarter to half return at a time.

The purpose of the thing is to ease the shock of accelerating/braking to drive train. On my cars that have all stock drivetrain I actually run it a little bit loose because spur pads are cheaper than driveshaft and differentials. They can be sanded a couple of times (wear a mask), the ones that press into the spur itself can be flipped.
I used to do the 'roll on carpet' method for ages, but I'm very meticulous now, I don't want to have to be replacing parts every 2-3 packs. I suspect its my choice of bashing, I've been doing a lot of off-roading, mudding etc on my 1:1 rig, and the Big Rock usually tags along, I'm suspecting mucky water getting in and not having cleaned it properly straight after. I'll take pictures next time and post them on how I prep it more to withstand this kind of abuse.
 
I stick with the rolling method and then back off 1/2 to 1 turn. I feel that this gives SOME consistency.
 
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