No way around it titanium screws will be pricey. Try Amain
httuner
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It's extremely expensive, sometimes you'd pay 7-12 dollars per bolt. I'm going this route with just 4 titanium bolts on my shock mounts; that was about 38 dollars just for 4 bolts. I went stainless steel on bolts that does not require strength; stainless is a lot weaker than those standard black bolts that comes with the car so pick wisely where you mount them.
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Titanium isn’t as strong as good old 12.9 steel fasteners. Ti also doesn’t play as well with aluminum and without proper prep and hardener will give a dielectric reaction that oxidizes and potentially seizes your parts.
If I were inclined to do it I would keep the steel for anything that threads into aluminum (blue 272 loctite helps prevent the dielectric reaction) and go for titanium anywhere they go into plastic. Just my .02
I don’t know where to obtain small titanium metric fasteners though. McMaster Carr maybe?
If I were inclined to do it I would keep the steel for anything that threads into aluminum (blue 272 loctite helps prevent the dielectric reaction) and go for titanium anywhere they go into plastic. Just my .02
I don’t know where to obtain small titanium metric fasteners though. McMaster Carr maybe?
Here’s an example
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I'm alright with steel and prefer it because of the price, but i hate the rust. Is there any specific brand/type of steel screws that would hold up better than the stock ones? Any tips or advice you might have would be helpful aswell
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Stainless steel is great if you don't mind every screw stripping...
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Nope. I agree about the rust, but a thin film of WD-40 on the screws after cleaning goes a long way to prevent it.
I avoid stainless like the plague, those things are so soft it’s ridiculous. Stainless into aluminum is like a single use thing, as they strip the heads so easily when removing them after loctiting. Anywhere you can get black oxide coated 12.9 grade steel screws is fine, they’re pretty common, fairly cost effective, and the best quality/longevity of any other choice, IMO.
I recommend avoiding SS screws. Try keeping WD-40 onthose screw heads. I’ve switched to titanium on a couple of my high end rigs and they function and look great 
LOL , beat me by few seconds. What he says
LOL , beat me by few seconds. What he says
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That will happen sooner or later, but good tools can help delay that
Acer has em decent prices. But as others mentioned stick with 12.9 steel fasteners.. unless plastic.
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My bad, I forgot to say "after one use" in my previous post.
MrTitanium
Speak softly and carry a big stick.
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Ummmm…. Why titanium fasteners?
I concur with this statement.
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MrTitanium
Speak softly and carry a big stick.
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As some here may know, Pratt & Whitney is my employer. I’m a focal technician on the PW800-series engines… and a few other models which I cannot divulge. Just so the people here know that I’m not talking out of my a$$.
Concerning titanium FASTENERS (not major components), I have the following to contribute.
Titanium fasteners (be it bolts, nuts, etc.) are highly over-rated. Most of the fasteners used on our turboprop and turbofan engines are steel (not going to specify the material/grade). Trust me when I say that a lot of money is invested in fastener selection. Roll Royce, GE Aviation… we all do. I have, however, seen titanium bolts on Messier Dowty landing gear assemblies. But I’ve also read service bulletins stating that those titanium bolts be replaced for steel units. So… ya.
Titanium fasteners (for RC applications) are for bragging rights, in my professional opinion. Do I have titanium fasteners on my RCs? Yes, on my Nero as I installed 5x30mm cap screws for the four rockers. Could I have installed 12.9 hardened Allen cap screws instead? Yep. But those crappy OEM studs had to be replaced and I had some ti fasteners on hand so, heck, why not.
In drag racing, I do not know of any sanctions that endorse the use of titanium fasteners. ARP Automotive does not sell/manufacture, to the best of my knowledge, such fasteners. I use to run Wav-Loc steel rod bolts in my Novas. Would I have installed titanium bolts instead if they were available? Nope… not even if they were given to me by my sponsors. Top fueler engines making a mindblowing 10,000+ horsepower? Yep… steel fasteners on all reciprocating components.
Anyhow. If you have the money to blow on a full set of QUALITY 6AL4V screws (not that cheap crap made overseas), God bless. Your ride won’t know the difference, believe me. Take a single OEM fastener and weigh it. Now take the exact same ti fastener and weight that one. Multiply the difference by the number of screws in your RC. I bet a wet Taco Bell fart would weigh more than the weight savings.
In the end, dear reader, believe what you want. I have nothing against titanium alloys, but they have their place. Just not in fastener selection.
Concerning titanium FASTENERS (not major components), I have the following to contribute.
Titanium fasteners (be it bolts, nuts, etc.) are highly over-rated. Most of the fasteners used on our turboprop and turbofan engines are steel (not going to specify the material/grade). Trust me when I say that a lot of money is invested in fastener selection. Roll Royce, GE Aviation… we all do. I have, however, seen titanium bolts on Messier Dowty landing gear assemblies. But I’ve also read service bulletins stating that those titanium bolts be replaced for steel units. So… ya.
Titanium fasteners (for RC applications) are for bragging rights, in my professional opinion. Do I have titanium fasteners on my RCs? Yes, on my Nero as I installed 5x30mm cap screws for the four rockers. Could I have installed 12.9 hardened Allen cap screws instead? Yep. But those crappy OEM studs had to be replaced and I had some ti fasteners on hand so, heck, why not.
In drag racing, I do not know of any sanctions that endorse the use of titanium fasteners. ARP Automotive does not sell/manufacture, to the best of my knowledge, such fasteners. I use to run Wav-Loc steel rod bolts in my Novas. Would I have installed titanium bolts instead if they were available? Nope… not even if they were given to me by my sponsors. Top fueler engines making a mindblowing 10,000+ horsepower? Yep… steel fasteners on all reciprocating components.
Anyhow. If you have the money to blow on a full set of QUALITY 6AL4V screws (not that cheap crap made overseas), God bless. Your ride won’t know the difference, believe me. Take a single OEM fastener and weigh it. Now take the exact same ti fastener and weight that one. Multiply the difference by the number of screws in your RC. I bet a wet Taco Bell fart would weigh more than the weight savings.
In the end, dear reader, believe what you want. I have nothing against titanium alloys, but they have their place. Just not in fastener selection.
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As another person who is currently seeking a large quantity of metric titanium screws, here's my 2 cents:
I want titanium not for any weight savings or strength. I gain nothing from a few grams in bolts and as already noted, titanium doesn't have near as high a tensile strength as quality steel
I want titanium for the simple reason that its stronger than stainless steel with the benefits of stainless steel. I HATE rust. And as noted, sure there are steps to "ease up" on the rust process. That may work for Average Joe but not for the guy who starts charging batteries when overcast. I'm a road running, 'lot ripping fanatic who sees sh1tty weather as a gift from the rc gods.
Now, recently I cannibalized Big Sent. Had to be done as it was time for an overhaul. Then I decided she deserved new and better so many of her HR parts could go towards my latest build which in all likelihood will end up destroyed. I paid good money for what I thought was quality SS. I assembled and took apart with the best tools on the market for that task. And surprisingly about 3/8s of all screws came out. Mostly those that were in plastic. Another half I got lucky with. They snapped off. A quarter of that half snapped off in a manner that made some HR parts useless. And the rest? Heads rounded out. Some I managed to "slot" and get out but the rest had to be drilled out.
And hear I am thinking, the money for the damn screws plus the money for the HR parts lost or damaged, my time and each time one of the kids poked their heads in the garage to ask if I was OK after yet another loud outburst over a screw issue suddenly makes titanium cost efficient.
I want titanium not for any weight savings or strength. I gain nothing from a few grams in bolts and as already noted, titanium doesn't have near as high a tensile strength as quality steel
I want titanium for the simple reason that its stronger than stainless steel with the benefits of stainless steel. I HATE rust. And as noted, sure there are steps to "ease up" on the rust process. That may work for Average Joe but not for the guy who starts charging batteries when overcast. I'm a road running, 'lot ripping fanatic who sees sh1tty weather as a gift from the rc gods.
Now, recently I cannibalized Big Sent. Had to be done as it was time for an overhaul. Then I decided she deserved new and better so many of her HR parts could go towards my latest build which in all likelihood will end up destroyed. I paid good money for what I thought was quality SS. I assembled and took apart with the best tools on the market for that task. And surprisingly about 3/8s of all screws came out. Mostly those that were in plastic. Another half I got lucky with. They snapped off. A quarter of that half snapped off in a manner that made some HR parts useless. And the rest? Heads rounded out. Some I managed to "slot" and get out but the rest had to be drilled out.
And hear I am thinking, the money for the damn screws plus the money for the HR parts lost or damaged, my time and each time one of the kids poked their heads in the garage to ask if I was OK after yet another loud outburst over a screw issue suddenly makes titanium cost efficient.
I also HATE RUST… made a mistake of going stainless steel at first on my Kraton few years ago ( some screws rounded up, some snapped), then I slowly started replacing most of the screws with titanium , and some with 12.9 grade high strength steel where maximum strength is needed like braces or where I couldn’t get the right size titanium screws. Most of the screws are also gold plated ( both titanium and steel screws) which is looking great in my opinion 
