Titanium turnbuckles for kraton

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Drtybird

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I have been looking at cutting weight down on my katon and adding some strength. Has anyone converted the front and rear turnbuckles to titanium and aluminum rod ends? My searching and seeking info for parts and taking measurements has led me to this. The rear has to be made 4mm turnbuckle instead of 5mm with long rod ends. The front has the offset rod end and I'm going to be running rovac truck front wheels and tires, with the bigger wheels would I be able to run a straight rod end? And if there is any other suppliers that I might check
 
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Drtybird

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Yes that is where I have found the turnbuckles, from when I had a emaxx. I have found the rod ends from RC4WD and there is not a 5mm just 6/32. So with the measurements of rod ends the buckles have to be longer than stock
 

Nitr0EngiEx

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Honestly If it were me I would leave it alone. After beating the crap out of my Kraton the stock ones never bent.

With that said, you can run straight ends on the front but they might rub a tad and the rod will need to be a bit extended to reach.
 
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Drtybird

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I agree on that they are strong but I hear the rod ends come apart so I was checking on them and can not find m5 aluminum rod ends so I started looking at the lundsfod titatium turnbuckles I can get away with just ends on front but back would need stronger turnbuckles
 

Nitr0EngiEx

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The fronts do Break which is why I use RPM rod ends, the Traxxas Long Ends fit the front inner

Traxxas short ends fit shock ends.

for the side that fits the tire I think you can use a mugen rod end, I can't remember.

I never broke a rear rod end and I was hella hard on my Kraton
 
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Drtybird

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Lol. I didn't think I would have any problem, was looking to match front with back. Mainly trying to cut weight and strength.
 

Nitr0EngiEx

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I don't recommend going totally solid links with aluminum rod ends. You need to purposefully create weak spots. Rod ends are cheap and easy to replace, easy to keep on hand. I recommend leaving that as a weak spot IMHO
 
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Drtybird

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I will just end up doing something that is stronger on the front at the moment, the front arms have a lot of play and might just get some rpm to start with. I have already bent the Ackerman link with my GF daughter playing around. I like to have a sturdy suspension to be tuneable and yes the more you beff things up it will break somewhere else
 

Krathead

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My point is that the Bell crank is a $5.99 part. The housing on the other end is a $6.99 part. The rod ends must be bought as a set and is $7.99. I really don't see the benefit in creating a weak spot here. I can understand the concept for protecting expensive parts but my main goal here is to keep the truck from breaking not intentionally having a weak spot where it is not needed. If the rod ends are the first thing to break then I will beef them up and keep a spare bell crank and steering housing in my tool box and bash on.
 
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Drtybird

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I agree, I definitely don't want to cause a problem with something else. I guess I am a guru, a mechanic for 25yrs and I like to have a good set up chassis. I like to bash but not play space cadet lol. I was looking at the ones on the front to build a more rigid front end . I love to play around with tuning and having everything move around is good for breakage but I like to have sturdy setup
 

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