Typhon TLR Typhon dirt track setup

[rcn]

Got my TLR Typhon RTR last weekend and everything's been good so far; only things that have broken are the stock servo and the plastic ESC case mounts. Switched out the RX/TX to Futaba and the tires to AKA Ibeams, but everything else is stock.

The track itself is very dusty with lots of loose dirt; would describe it as a dry, low-grip track.

I've noticed that on corners, the rear tends to step out. Could this be due to my diff fluid being too thin/thick? If I'm not mistaken, it comes with 10k front/rear from the factory. Or is that more of a camber/shock setup thing? If anyone has a setup sheet for the TLR Typhon, I'd greatly appreciate it!

 

[Shadows]

For what you're going for, I'd try a diff fluid change. Something along the line of 80k front, 80k center, and 30k rear. That, and those particular TLR tires don't grab very well imo. I'd get a set of buggy tires with a much more aggressive tread.

I'd get Duratrax Lockup tires and an aluminum diff cup for the center diff to handle the heat of the differential's function.

 

[Just a hobby]

If the track is that dry and slick. I'd go even lower in the rear diff and and thicker in rhe front diff.

 

[rcn]

If the track is that dry and slick. I'd go even lower in the rear diff and and thicker in rhe front diff.

So something like 7k rear and 15k front, or should I go lower/higher?

For what you're going for, I'd try a diff fluid change. Something along the line of 80k front, 80k center, and 30k rear. That, and those particular TLR tires don't grab very well imo. I'd get a set of buggy tires with a much more aggressive tread.

I'd get Duratrax Lockup tires and an aluminum diff cup for the center diff to handle the heat of the differential's function.

Why so much higher? Stock diff fluid is 10k front/rear and 100k center. Not saying you're wrong, but I am curious.

I was also recommended the Ibeams by a few people who regularly race at my local track, but I'm open to trying others too.

 

[Just a hobby]

120 k front, center 50 k and rear 5 k. You want more power to the front to pull you through the corner. And 5 k in the rear to let each wheel to spin at different speeds. Inside slower that the outside wheel. That's how I would set up the diffs

 

[Garcbomber]

Sounds like you need more of an Mx style tread if it’s really loose instead of a goosebump that will spin and be unpredictable.

 

[Shadows]

So something like 7k rear and 15k front, or should I go lower/higher?


Why so much higher? Stock diff fluid is 10k front/rear and 100k center. Not saying you're wrong, but I am curious.

I was also recommended the Ibeams by a few people who regularly race at my local track, but I'm open to trying others too.

Why higher? Because the diffs in these models work really hard and tend to overheat with 10k and under fluids. If you go higher, you can still tune the diffs to match the handling characteristics of the lower viscosity (thinner) diff oils, but with added protection. If you listen to the 5k at the back diff recommendation (I wouldn't) I'd DEFINITELY get aluminum diff cups for all three diffs to handle the inevitable heat that goes with such thin viscosity. 10k and under is like water to these models; even the buggy and discontinued Senton 6s. These aren't lightweight little toy-light, light duty tamiya kit buggies. They need the thicker stuff, despite what ARRMA throws in em.' Personally, I'd get aluminum diff cups for all the diffs, regardless.

 

[Shadows]

Sounds like you need more of an Mx style tread if it’s really loose instead of a goosebump that will spin and be unpredictable.

View attachment 362974

View attachment 362978

Nice shots. Good tire choices.

 

[Just a hobby]

Why higher? Because the diffs in these models work really hard and tend to overheat with 10k and under fluids. If you go higher, you can still tune the diffs to match the handling characteristics of the lower viscosity (thinner) diff oils, but with added protection. If you listen to the 5k at the back diff recommendation (I wouldn't) I'd DEFINITELY get aluminum diff cups for all three diffs to handle the inevitable heat that goes with such thin viscosity. 10k and under is like water to these models; even the buggy and discontinued Senton 6s. These aren't lightweight little toy-light, light duty tamiya kit buggies. They need the thicker stuff, despite what ARRMA throws in em.' Personally, I'd get aluminum diff cups for all the diffs, regardless.

Makes total sense, my mistake on how light on the diff oil. Definitely go all metal diff cases. Then if that light a oil makes the typhon handle better. If your running on hard packed dry dirt not much will help except some water on the track. Had that problem at Gun Hill Road rc track.

 

[Shadows]

Makes total sense, my mistake on how light on the diff oil. Definitely go all metal diff cases. Then if that light a oil makes the typhon handle better. If your running on hard packed dry dirt not much will help except some water on the track. Had that problem at Gun Hill Road rc track.

The front and rear diffs (going to aluminum) are merely preference if you go with a higher viscosity, but most would tell you that it would be wise to at least get an aluminum cup for the center diff. It does a lot of work. They all do, but unlike the other two, the center manages all the power at once. Garcbomber was showing some good tire choices. That is a big factor in your Typhon's track issue. Probably the biggest reason for it. But add in a diff tune, and the whole mix will be like night and day compared to your current setup.