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how the front shock tower is designed the plastic cups that sit inside the hinge pin holder are designed to sit like that for the upper arm as well. So I’ve got to swap tower and hinge pin mounts. No biggie, cheap metal set off Amazon and some ADU towers on the wayIf you’re bashing a TLR the general consensus is that the steering blocks (pill holders) need to be replaced with conventional units. They seem to be the #1 failure point.
I haven’t heard of issues with the arms.
Change the blocks and set up the droop properly and you should be good.
Ah, I’m gonna swap everything to make it a true basher I suppose. This is a proline axis Typhon bodyAlso, Too many hits on the front tower will distort everything and cause problems... What body is that?... thanks Mike
Yeah, the way I send this rig that ain’t really an option. 2 big jumps and the upper arms are falling out? This is the second time it’s happened, I’d rather bend hinge pins than constantly worrying about the front end of the car falling apart after a big jumpI prefer to damage the pill holders than the arm/hinge pin/bulkhead on my TyJave. Pick your poison on where you want the failure mode.
Yep, that’s not good. Sounds like a suspension setup issue if you’re not landing directly on a wheel or arm. I run Mojave arms, wheels, and shocks so even more torsional forces and never had a problem. 30 foot direct side landing at 60mph then sure something has to give, survives these type of miscue landings 90 percent of the time. In my opinion the typhon TLR front shocks are too short for heavy bashing but the right end mounting adjustments can make all the difference.Yeah, the way I send this rig that ain’t really an option. 2 big jumps and the upper arms are falling out? This is the second time it’s happened, I’d rather bend hinge pins than constantly worrying about the front end of the car falling apart after a big jump