Typhon TLR typhon mid diff wobble

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Hampus

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I have a brand new tlr tuned typhoon. If I watch the cog wheel on the center diff from the side when it spins, it wobbles a bit. Someone else has this problem? Is it even a problem? I recorded a video but I can only attach images. PS. The car has never been driven.
 
View attachment 183881I have a brand new tlr tuned typhoon. If I watch the cog wheel on the center diff from the side when it spins, it wobbles a bit. Someone else has this problem? Is it even a problem? I recorded a video but I can only attach images. PS. The car has never been driven.
I don't think it's a problem. As long as the mess is good and it rolls with no binding issues. But I just thinking here idk if it work or anything but maybe try putting a shim round the bearing might tighten it up. But idk if it will cause any problems. And u could replace the plastic center diff holder the one across from the motor mount to metal 🤷🏼‍♂️. But I think ur good to go. Enjoy I like my TLR
 
I don't think it's a problem. As long as the mess is good and it rolls with no binding issues. But I just thinking here idk if it work or anything but maybe try putting a shim round the bearing might tighten it up. But idk if it will cause any problems. And u could replace the plastic center diff holder the one across from the motor mount to metal 🤷🏼‍♂️. But I think ur good to go. Enjoy I like my TLR
I’m thinking that either the cog wheel is a bit warped or the plastic cup that it mounts to. But like you said, probably fine. I will find out eventually 🙂
 
I’m thinking that either the cog wheel is a bit warped or the plastic cup that it mounts to. But like you said, probably fine. I will find out eventually 🙂
Cog wheel? Is that the spur gear ur referring to? And maybe grinding a little out the back mount and it could sit flush. Might just be just a mm higher.
 
Make sure the diff cover is on properly. It should snap in to place when you push down on it, as the "legs" of the diff cover secure the diff bearings
 
here is my video so you can see what I mean.
Yea got little wobble going on idk maybe take diff out see if all 4 screws holding spear gear on are seated. But I would think diff be leaking if they weren't. But I would take the diff out and and put back in make sure it's in right and all the way down. And the top cover in all the way down
 
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The video shows extreme runnout. (n)(n) It must be taken apart. Bad for the motor shaft, motor BB's and gears. First check that the screws are tight. But just that if they were that loose, there would be Diff oil all over that leaked out if there was any in there to begn with. . I surmise the diff case is damaged. Overheated/distorted or whatever. Don't run it like this. While you are there check the BB's and diff mounts and output cups. Examine ALL related parts closely.
A slight runnout can happen from time to time. I even had a bad spur gear before out the box. Check yours for flatness.
Time to take that diff apart. And have a spare diff cup on hand. Examine all. Increase the diff oil thickness abit. Perhaps increase to 15k for the TLRT. I don't know how you bash this or if you are running 4s or 6s in it. Depending on how much run time you have, I would also consider checking the F and R diffs also, sooner than later. Especially if you never looked them over when it was new out thhe box. The factory will underfill these diffs most of the time. If you never checked over the diff(s) and just ran as is out the sbox , this is probably the main reason this happened. 99% sure. And the TLRT runs thin fuids compared to the other 6s rigs. Thinner fluids run hotter and especialy if underfilled.
Don't continue to run it in this condition. Time to start wrenching.:cool:
 
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That's no good. The spur (cog is correct nomenclature, it is a driven gear) is probably not bent. The seating of the spur, gasket, and housing are probably off. I'd pull the four bolts, remove, inspect, and rotate the spur gear, and re-torque. That should do it. Probably slipped past QC.
 
The video shows extreme runnout. (n)(n) It must be taken apart. Bad for the motor shaft, motor BB's and gears. First check that the screws are tight. But just that if they were that loose, there would be Diff oil all over that leaked out. I surmise the diff case is damaged. Overheated/distorted or whatever. Don't run it like this.While you are there check the BB's and diff mounts and output cups. Examine ALL related parts closely.
A slight runnout can happen from time to time. I even had a bad spur gear before out the box. Check yours for flatness.
Time to take that diff apart. And have a spare diff cup on hand. Examine all. Increase the diff oil thickness abit. Perhaps increase to 15k for the TLRT. I don't know how you bash this or if you are running 4s or 6s in it. deending n how much run time you have, I owulld also consider checking the F and R diffs sooner than later. Esecially if you never looked them over when it was new out thhe box. The factory will underfill these diffs most of the time. And the TLRT runs thin fuids compared to the other 6s rigs.
Don't continue to run it in this condition. Time to start wrenching.
The video shows extreme runnout. (n)(n) It must be taken apart. Bad for the motor shaft, motor BB's and gears. First check that the screws are tight. But just that if they were that loose, there would be Diff oil all over that leaked out. I surmise the diff case is damaged. Overheated/distorted or whatever. Don't run it like this.While you are there check the BB's and diff mounts and output cups. Examine ALL related parts closely.
A slight runnout can happen from time to time. I even had a bad spur gear before out the box. Check yours for flatness.
Time to take that diff apart. And have a spare diff cup on hand. Examine all. Increase the diff oil thickness abit. Perhaps increase to 15k for the TLRT. I don't know how you bash this or if you are running 4s or 6s in it. deending n how much run time you have, I owulld also consider checking the F and R diffs sooner than later. Esecially if you never looked them over when it was new out thhe box. The factory will underfill these diffs most of the time. And the TLRT runs thin fuids compared to the other 6s rigs.
Don't continue to run it in this condition. Time to start wrenching.:cool:
yes so it has never been in use. It’s still a roller. I have dissambled all diffs. This one has 100k in it. Followed the recommendations of Earl Moorhead on YouTube. I will take it apart again and make sure that I haven’t screwed anything up. Thx
That's no good. The spur (cog is correct nomenclature, it is a driven gear) is probably not bent. The seating of the spur, gasket, and housing are probably off. I'd pull the four bolts, remove, inspect, and rotate the spur gear, and re-torque. That should do it. Probably slipped past QC.
yes so it has never been in use. It’s still a roller. I have dissambled all diffs. This one has 100k in it. Followed the recommendations of Earl Moorhead on YouTube. I will take it apart again and make sure that I haven’t screwed anything up. Thx
 
^^^ I think if it is that bad like you state, there would be oil all over. Which I don't see. But could be empty of oil as well. None to leak out??? If so it needs a complete rebuild.
 
yes so it has never been in use. The car is still a roller. I have dissambled all diffs. This one has 100k in it. Followed the recommendations of Earl Moorhead on YouTube. I will take it apart again and make sure that I haven’t screwed anything up. Thx
 
yes so it has never been in use. It’s still a roller. I have dissambled all diffs. This one has 100k in it. Followed the recommendations of Earl Moorhead on YouTube. I will take it apart again and make sure that I haven’t screwed anything up. Thx
Ok that changes everything... never used.... Then it was factory production mistake. Or you made the mistake.
I had a new Lim out the box that had one rear diff assembled completely wrong and looked similarly. It was assembled internally wrong and was locked up new unused and all. All out of whack. Input and main gears were jammed up etc. A mess. HH replaced it under warranty.
Check over your diff build again.(y)(y)
 
UPDATE. I took it apart and made sure the cog wheel is seated correctly with the plastic cup. After it stills wobbles. So there must be something wrong with the cog wheel. If I lay it flat on the table there is some wiggle. So it's not 100% flat.
 
UPDATE. I took it apart and made sure the cog wheel is seated correctly with the plastic cup. After it stills wobbles. So there must be something wrong with the cog wheel. If I lay it flat on the table there is some wiggle. So it's not 100% flat.
I would send pics to HH they send ya new one. Or if ya don't want wait go get ya new one. See if that takes care ur problem. Best luck 🤞
 
I would send pics to HH they send ya new one. Or if ya don't want wait go get ya new one. See if that takes care ur problem. Best luck 🤞
Thx. What does HH mean? :) I've contacted the re-seller where I bought it. See what he says. I live in Sweden :)
Also the screws that hold down the lid on the plastic brace mount for the center diff just keep spinning. I've ordered an aluminum equivalent part from hot racing. Hope that helps with that. Anyone else had that same problem? Here is the link to that part if anyone else is interested https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=ANN38A02;c=928
 
HH is Horizon Hobby, which is located in the US. Since you live in Sweden, you would have to contact Horizon Hobby Europe for warranty issues. I don't have that info, but it should be in your owner's manual.
 
Thx. What does HH mean? :) I've contacted the re-seller where I bought it. See what he says. I live in Sweden :)
Also the screws that hold down the lid on the plastic brace mount for the center diff just keep spinning. I've ordered an aluminum equivalent part from hot racing. Hope that helps with that. Anyone else had that same problem? Here is the link to that part if anyone else is interested https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=ANN38A02;c=928
Yea like @morrjr71 said bout HH. And they got racing part will help
 
You could try to order a replacement diff from one of the European kit breakers. There are a few in the UK. Then you can continue bashing while you wait on warranty. I am surprised your spur cog came warped from the factory, I can't see where that could happen during manufacture unless it was loaded into a fixture wrong.
 
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