Typhon TLRT Race Buggy!

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CentriBoosted

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Hello! Just got on the forums. Got back into buggy racing and TLR Typhon seemed best budget before sinking into another chassis to see if I would like it again!

Build: TLRT Typhon
Motor: HobbyWing XeRun 1900KV
ESC: HobbyWing XeRun XR8 SCT/ Pro TBI
Servo: HiTec D954SW
Rx/Tx: Sanwa rx-472 / M12S
Battery: 4S 6000 120c Gens/ProTek/Powerhobby
Shocks: TLR 8XE (modified A-Arms & cap bushings to fit)
Tires: ProLine/ AKA / GRP
Diffs: 7/5/3
Spur/Pinion: 17/44
Bodies: TLR 8X / ProLine Axis

I will do a write up for the shock upgrade in the next day or so for those interested!

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Nice setup! Interesting post for me because my son and I started out as Arrma bashers but we're moving more and more into the outdoor racing side of things. Currently we're just using a 3S Typhon with some decent JConcepts tires but we've been researching options for the next step up to actually make us competitive.

How does the TLRT Typhon go against the likes of the "true" 1/8 race buggies - HB E819s, TLR 8IGHT-XEs etc? I've been planning a Hobbywing XErun ESC (probably XERUN XR8 Pro G2) and motor combo too but can't decide between the 4268SD 1900kv and 2200kv. Most of our tracks are fairly tight but there are a couple of tracks around the place with decent straights. Current thinking is it would be better to get 2200Kv and tune down on the tight tracks - any thoughts on this?
 
Nice shocks. Looks like you had to notch the "A" arm so that they fit . I'll have to keep these shocks in mind if I ever want to upgrade mine on the Typhon 6s V5.
I did. I will get the caliper out to see how much compared to factory. It’s not a whole lot at all. You have to shave the bushings for the caps from the stock shocks. I will post a tutorial in the next day or two
Nice setup! Interesting post for me because my son and I started out as Arrma bashers but we're moving more and more into the outdoor racing side of things. Currently we're just using a 3S Typhon with some decent JConcepts tires but we've been researching options for the next step up to actually make us competitive.

How does the TLRT Typhon go against the likes of the "true" 1/8 race buggies - HB E819s, TLR 8IGHT-XEs etc? I've been planning a Hobbywing XErun ESC (probably XERUN XR8 Pro G2) and motor combo too but can't decide between the 4268SD 1900kv and 2200kv. Most of our tracks are fairly tight but there are a couple of tracks around the place with decent straights. Current thinking is it would be better to get 2200Kv and tune down on the tight tracks - any thoughts on this?
2200 is a lot. 1900kv will get you where you need to be for most tracks. You’ll want the TQ. It has been a competitive buggy the way I have set it up. Make sure your camber and toe are set correctly and Tires Tires Tires! I have a few friends with TLR XE buggies and Teknos and I compete with them very well. The shocks made a huge difference. We had a race last weekend and finished 3rd behind two pro drivers running a Mugen and TLR. A lot has to do with your driving as well.
 
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Hello! Just got on the forums. Got back into buggy racing and TLR Typhon seemed best budget before sinking into another chassis to see if I would like it again!

Build: TLRT Typhon
Motor: HobbyWing XeRun 1900KV
ESC: HobbyWing XeRun XR8 SCT/ Pro TBI
Servo: HiTec D954SW
Rx/Tx: Sanwa rx-472 / M12S
Battery: 4S 6000 120c Gens/ProTek/Powerhobby
Shocks: TLR 8XE (modified A-Arms & cap bushings to fit)
Tires: ProLine/ AKA / GRP
Diffs: 7/5/3
Spur/Pinion: 17/44
Bodies: TLR 8X / ProLine Axis

I will do a write up for the shock upgrade in the next day or so for those interested!

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Nice and welcome. What is ur diff fluid set up?
 
Nice buggy, but no sensor wire?
 
Love your rig, looks awesome. How's the turning with the pillow balls? That seems to me the most limiting thing about the TLR Typhon vs actual race buggies. I kinda wish they sold a lightweight C-hub upgrade, but then you'd prbably need new arms etc.
 
Love your rig, looks awesome. How's the turning with the pillow balls? That seems to me the most limiting thing about the TLR Typhon vs actual race buggies. I kinda wish they sold a lightweight C-hub upgrade, but then you'd prbably need new arms etc.
Define “actual race buggies”. Mugen, X-Ray, TA, and Kyosho are Pillow/Pivot ball setups. It’s easier to tune a PB setup. Feels more linear in the steering. Takes a lot more to setup a cHub car to me. You could also buy a slightly heavier ball end to put a little weight on the front to help turning also. Most think that you want no play when backing off the inserts for the ball. A little play in the upper is actually ok. It acts a little bit like an active caster setup. The biggest problem I had with this car out of the box was the car wanted to push a ton on power. After some adjustments and diff fluid changes she does very well.
 
I meant actual race buggies as in they were built from the ground up to race, but yes, Mugen, X-Ray etc are all true race buggies, I had no idea they used pillows. I have a TLR Typhon myself but it seems to understeer since the front tires don't stay flat to the surface. I always thought the reason Arrma used pillows for the 1/8 scale lineup was added strength. I'm suprised to learn they are on track cars as well. I just watched a video on pb setups and I was driving my call all wrong. I was turning off power and not using throttle to bring the car around. For some reason I thought that would have made the car plow more. I going to try it out tomorrow and see how it goes. I wasnt racing, but the wide turns were annoying. I have a newfound respect for the TLR Typhon, thank you for pointing out that pillows are legit.
 
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I meant actual race buggies as in they were built from the ground up to race, but yes, Mugen, X-Ray etc are all true race buggies, I had no idea they used pillows. I have a TLR Typhon myself but it seems to oversteer since the front tires don't stay flat to the surface. I always thought the reason Arrma used pillows for the 1/8 scale lineup was added strength. I'm suprised to learn they are on track cars as well.
Weird yours is oversteering. They are actually really bad with understeer and won’t turn on power. If your buggy won’t keep the front wheels down you need to adjust some suspension. This car is an exact replica basically as the old Team Durango buggy from a few years back.

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actually i meant to stay it understeers, the front loses grip in turns
 
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Define “actual race buggies”. Mugen, X-Ray, TA, and Kyosho are Pillow/Pivot ball setups. It’s easier to tune a PB setup. Feels more linear in the steering. Takes a lot more to setup a cHub car to me. You could also buy a slightly heavier ball end to put a little weight on the front to help turning also. Most think that you want no play when backing off the inserts for the ball. A little play in the upper is actually ok. It acts a little bit like an active caster setup. The biggest problem I had with this car out of the box was the car wanted to push a ton on power. After some adjustments and diff fluid changes she does very well.
I Beg to differ, camber link is easier to dial in vs PB. And with Arrma PB's, roll center at the rear is critical for technical track driving. It remains old school in its design and setup. Somewhat limited. But acceptable for bashing.
 
I Beg to differ, camber link is easier to dial in vs PB. And with Arrma PB's, roll center at the rear is critical for technical track driving. It remains old school in its design and setup. Somewhat limited. But acceptable for bashing.
To each their own. for those of us that do know how to setup a car yes it’s not hard I agree. For someone to just go to a c-hub car that’s never messed with it I don’t think so. I also am not running the stock shocks on this car which changed it up a good bit. Roll center isn’t bad on a TLRT if you have the car setup either. This car has been surprisingly great at the track setup correctly
 
Can you post your TLRT setup sheet?
How would you describe your particular track?
 
I Beg to differ, camber link is easier to dial in vs PB. And with Arrma PB's, roll center at the rear is critical for technical track driving. It remains old school in its design and setup. Somewhat limited. But acceptable for bashing.
I will say you have to drive the balls off of it though it’s not as dreamy as a full kit car but also can’t beat it if you have some tinkering time. I’m about to see if I can get a mugen diff to fit it.
Can you post your TLRT setup sheet?
How would you describe your particular track?
I’ll get one wrote out today and post it. Getting car out back together now
 

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