Kraton Too much bashing too soon - steering help?

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mheckroth

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I got a new Kraton 6s a couple weeks ago and apparently was seduced by all the bashing videos showing trucks dropping from big jumps, skidding around in the rain, and flipping over. I've had the car out under a half dozen times and already bent the chassis and one of the front drive shafts. As a result, I ordered a new MC2 chassis, did a complete tear down, and now am putting her back together. I'm beginning to understand part of the love of these cars is wrenchin' as much as driving.

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When I was looking at the front end (sorry I don't have any of my own pictures and took this one below from the web) it seemed one side was really lose and the other one super tight. I watched a couple YouTube videos on how to set this, but still don't know if I got it right. The advice I saw was to tighten both bolts, top and bottom, so they are snug and then back it off a half turn.

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Should I be able to move the steering side to side (not connected to the servo) easily or should there be some resistance?

(Also as a side note, those things went in crooked at first. It seems like they would be very easy to cross-thread and strip)
 

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I went through the same. One thing to realize is the guys in the videos are usually jumping in very controlled settings. BMX tracks, skate parks, ramps, etc. The approach, jump and landing are all in very good condition. With good conditions and good driving, you can jump and land on the wheels consistently. Learning the limits of the car and slowing down to prevent rollover is also important. You can jump, go fast, drive in rough conditions, but not with full throttle all the time. Flipping over and wrenching is still part of the game, but learning how to drive hard while staying on your wheels is the key to minimizing breaks.

At first I was trying to drive my truck off anything that would send it up. The result was unpredictable jumps and lots of breaks. Since then I built a ramp and can land on the wheels consistently. Bad landings are always an avoidable mistake on my part. Finally, I've realized dirt is the safest surface. Concrete is fun and predictable, but it's hard, so mistakes lead to damage. Grass provides cushion, but can grab/flip the car. Loose dirt provides cushion AND slide. The downside is cleanup. Low grass with enough dirt to provide slide is probably the most forgiving and fun surface to run on.
 
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Any further advice on how tight these ball joint pressure screws should be?
 
Any further advice on how tight these ball joint pressure screws should be?
I tighten by feel. Start by disconnecting the shocks. Then loosen the cap a bit till you can feel play in the ball. Then slowly tighten till you don't have play. Check movement - there should be no binding. If there is binding, loosen the cap a hair till the binding is gone. Ideally, you are shooting for zero play, and zero binding, but sometimes you have to give a bit of one to get the other right.
 
Any further advice on how tight these ball joint pressure screws should be?
Tighten until it can't move. Have the threaded side that screws into the A-Arm sticking straight out parallel to the ground. Loosen the nut slowly until it falls freely. The pillow ball should be tight enough to stay in there but loose enough to move freely.
 
Tp-Parts Rc Xtreme has awesome maintenance and running videos...older video but pretty much the same setup...
 
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