Too Much Power

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TheMrAsh

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock
Let me start by saying that I love my BR, but it's undriveable!!! I am running (2) 5200 3S 45C/90C Lipos and I can't hit the throttle more 1/4 without preforming a standing backflip (yes I have the wheelie bar installed)

I've raced RC trucks for years, I know how to drive, I just want to reduce the amount power to the wheels so I can concentrate on having fun and not on getting it off of it's backside.

I do have the Terremoto V2 wheel which have amazing traction.

I have adjusted the shocks correctly, modded the spring holders to one. mentioned on numerous threads, it performs/handles correctly (and it does!, it has amazing tracking ability as long as it's on the ground)

But let it get airborne and it's Cartwheels for days!! LOL Yes, I've broken a rod-end, front lower arm, rear body post, rear bumper and the body.

But compared to the amount of crashing/bashing I put it through the breakage is minimum. Amazing Truck!!

Question: Does anyone run lower power batteries or just one battery, how does it handle? Does it still have enough power to pull wheelies and launch, but remain controllable? What batteries are you running?

Thanks
 
TheMrAsh said:
Let me start by saying that I love my BR, but it's undriveable!!! I am running (2) 5200 3S 45C/90C Lipos and I can't hit the throttle more 1/4 without preforming a standing backflip (yes I have the wheelie bar installed)

I've raced RC trucks for years, I know how to drive, I just want to reduce the amount power to the wheels so I can concentrate on having fun and not on getting it off of it's backside.

I do have the Terremoto V2 wheel which have amazing traction.

I have adjusted the shocks correctly, modded the spring holders to one. mentioned on numerous threads, it performs/handles correctly (and it does!, it has amazing tracking ability as long as it's on the ground)

But let it get airborne and it's Cartwheels for days!! LOL Yes, I've broken a rod-end, front lower arm, rear body post, rear bumper and the body.

But compared to the amount of crashing/bashing I put it through the breakage is minimum. Amazing Truck!!

Question: Does anyone run lower power batteries or just one battery, how does it handle? Does it still have enough power to pull wheelies and launch, but remain controllable? What batteries are you running?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Sounds like you are running the center diff locked. You can unlock it and it becomes more manageable. You could also turn down your punch setting to tame your trotted control. I run SMC 7200 90c in my Neros and they do fine.
 
I'll try both of those suggestions, thanks for the input Va-jeeper

How exactly do you adjust the "Punch Control" on the ESC for the Arrma?

I've also heard that instead of changing the output on the ESC you can change the pinion gear to a different size? Is that a better option?
 
I have run mine on 3S (1x 3S), 4S (2x 2S), & 6S (2x 3S) and yes have had similar issues particularly when I am running it on the street in front of my house. On 6S this truck is a handful and like you, I have cartwheeled mine a number of times with that much power. Running 3S and 4S this truck is much more controllable. For me it still has plenty of power and is just as much fun to drive. To run a single battery you will need a buy or make an XT90 Female loop connector. Arrma part #AR390204. If you have some spare battery wire you can use one of the extra XT90 female connectors that came with your truck and make your own if you don't want to buy one.
 
Thanks chevyrumble, that was my thought originally, yes I am purchasing the XT-90 loop for the other battery.

Just wasn't sure about the performance with only 1 3S, but I can always have a charged spare waiting in the other side.

I might try a 4S if the three isn't enough. People have said learn to throttle better, but with this one the difference between just enough and too much, is more than I can control.

Still interested in the Punch Control and Pinion Gear options if anyone has some advise.
 
TheMrAsh said:
I'll try both of those suggestions, thanks for the input Va-jeeper

How exactly do you adjust the "Punch Control" on the ESC for the Arrma?

I've also heard that instead of changing the output on the ESC you can change the pinion gear to a different size? Is that a better option?
Click to expand...
Page 23 will show you how to change your punch setting. Stock the puch setting is 2, you can drop it down 1. You may also want to recalibrate your throttle, page 22. Your throttle maybe off if you are getting so much throttle at 1/4 pull. IDK if you have ever gotten it to full speed but how far are you on the throttle when the power caps off?
Yes. You can change the pinion. I run the stock 15t and it seems fine to me. A small pinion will slow the truck down but give it ore torque.
 
Va-jeeper you are speaking about the Arrma BR manual I assume, thank you for the information I will check the throttle control setting on the transmitter first, then try to adjust the Punch setting, and then the pinion gear.

I am checking in steps:
1: check throttle setting on transmitter
2: adjust Punch setting from 2 to 1
3: try using next pinion gear up (17T)

Thanks again for the information
 
TheMrAsh said:
Va-jeeper you are speaking about the Arrma BR manual I assume, thank you for the information I will check the throttle control setting on the transmitter first, then try to adjust the Punch setting, and then the pinion gear.

I am checking in steps:
1: check throttle setting on transmitter
2: adjust Punch setting from 2 to 1
3: try using next pinion gear up (17T)

Thanks again for the information
Click to expand...

Yes I am talking about the Arrma manual. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
 
Va-jeeper, your the man!!

When I first took the truck out of the box, the transmitter wouldn't work so I tried to program it to the ESC. Come to find out I had one battery turned wrong in the transmitter.

More than likely when I was attempting to program it I must have accidentally reprogrammed the Punch Setting (Higher)

It is now set on 1, I'll try it in this setting first and then go from there, your advice has been most helpful and makes me even more excited to own and drive this truck.

I will post the results once it's back together, hopefully soon, waiting on new rear body post mount.

Thanks again
 
TheMrAsh said:
Va-jeeper, your the man!!

When I first took the truck out of the box, the transmitter wouldn't work so I tried to program it to the ESC. Come to find out I had one battery turned wrong in the transmitter.

More than likely when I was attempting to program it I must have accidentally reprogrammed the Punch Setting (Higher)

It is now set on 1, I'll try it in this setting first and then go from there, your advice has been most helpful and makes me even more excited to own and drive this truck.

I will post the results once it's back together, hopefully soon, waiting on new rear body post mount.

Thanks again
Click to expand...

Awesome! Glad I could help! Enjoy your BR!
 
Chevyrumble..you have an estimate on your run time on the 1 3S vs 2x 2S?
 
You will have also one more option.
You can run 6s but you have to limit you're throttle.
After you had calibrated you´re throttle ways to the ESC, you can limit the full way of the throttle to reduce the power.
It´s quite easy. while driving slowly forward, you have to push the buttons below the steering wheel in the right direction.
A colleague of mine had pushed these buttons while driving and he was wondering that a fully charged lipo-pack had no power.
But HE reduced the forward speed with his thump!
Normally it should be enough to drive a 4s setup with all diffs open. My girlfriend can handle her blue Nero with such setup.
With a Big Rock you have less grip out of the box, because the original BR-Tires have less grip than the Nero tires.
 
RCgoogler said:
Chevyrumble..you have an estimate on your run time on the 1 3S vs 2x 2S?
Click to expand...
Honestly I haven't run them enough to really be sure what the time difference is. I am pretty sure I got a longer run time out of my 2x 2S than 1x3S, but I have two 3S batteries so when the first one ran out I switched right over and kept on running. I probably got 20-25 minutes on 4S and 15-20 minutes on 3S. The batteries I have are good, but not super high end. I am sure you can get better run times out of other batteries with higher milliamp hours. As of right now I have these batteries:

2x Turnigy Nano-Tech 2S 5000mAh 25-50C
2x Duratrax Onyx 3S 5400mAh 50C

Just kind of thinking about it more, if you really want to extend your run time as much as possible and still get good performance out of the truck. A good option might be to get two 4S batteries and run one at a time. I always keep two batteries in my truck when I am driving it to keep the weight balanced, so if you put 2x 4S packs in the trays you could probably get some really good run times out of the truck even though you would have to pull the body off once and switch over to the second battery once the first one is low.
 
Just run two 2s batteries as stated and you will have a world more fun. I run 6s every blue moon. No breakages, heat or anything
 
TheMrAsh said:
Va-jeeper you are speaking about the Arrma BR manual I assume, thank you for the information I will check the throttle control setting on the transmitter first, then try to adjust the Punch setting, and then the pinion gear.

I am checking in steps:
1: check throttle setting on transmitter
2: adjust Punch setting from 2 to 1
3: try using next pinion gear up (17T)

Thanks again for the information
Click to expand...
Using the 17 will not help your cause lol
 
Hihi, just in case together with small 1:10 wheels... :confused:
Smaller than the stock pinion also makes no sense, cause that will give more stress to the drive train...
Specially if the wheels have a lot of grip and locked diffs.
 
Update:
Took the BR out this afternoon, the Punch Setting adjust worked! I used my (2) 3S 5200 60/120C Lipos and nailed it after a short throttle check, truck got up in its rear end but stayed grounded.

I was soo happy for about 30 seconds and then the front tires exploded (RedCrap Terremoto V2 wheels) I had run these before with no issues, but today they didn't last a minute, I had the diffs unlocked (1), and I had checked the tires when I was assembling the BR today.

Oh well throttle / control issue fixed, I will put the BR wheels/tires on it for now.

I own the SRC Terrain Crushers, but they're only good on the pavement, they constantly spin on grass.

Any suggestions for an OffRoad tire that doesn't balloon out like a life preserver?
 
Mr ash. I don't think the loop thing works on Nero. Will Nero work on 3s? I could be wrong, i have been before. I Single 4s is too big for box. I run 6s exclusively with the 17 pinion gear with no problems, punch set almost all the way. Only small jumps, racing around on pavement, dirt, and grass. My only breaks came when I forgot diffs were locked and axel pin sheared.
 
TheMrAsh said:
Update:
Took the BR out this afternoon, the Punch Setting adjust worked! I used my (2) 3S 5200 60/120C Lipos and nailed it after a short throttle check, truck got up in its rear end but stayed grounded.

I was soo happy for about 30 seconds and then the front tires exploded (RedCrap Terremoto V2 wheels) I had run these before with no issues, but today they didn't last a minute, I had the diffs unlocked (1), and I had checked the tires when I was assembling the BR today.

Oh well throttle / control issue fixed, I will put the BR wheels/tires on it for now.

I own the SRC Terrain Crushers, but they're only good on the pavement, they constantly spin on grass.

Any suggestions for an OffRoad tire that doesn't balloon out like a life preserver?
Click to expand...

Glad to hear the punch worked for you! Sorry about the tire. I just run my stock tires on my Nero. You could try the Backflips. I love them on my Kraton and they don't balloon as much.
 

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