Tower to Tower brace really necessary. Use with Carbon ?

[JMS RC]

I have using a square tube alu chassi brace almost from day one on my Talion V3, been working well.
I have bent a couple of shocktowers but never the chassiplate nor the gearbox. I have now invested in some carbon fiber shock towers and wonder if it's such a good idea to use a tower to tower brace with these.
Is there anyone here that has carbon fiber shock towers and is using a brace ? Is a tower to tower brace really necessary, is there a lot of you guys out there that doesn't use them at all ?

I read this on Voltage Hobbies page for their alu towers

*NOTE
We don't recommend the use of a "tower to tower brace" as it makes the shock towers and gearbox cases more likely to bend/break under hard impacts/crashes, the reason is most of the energy gets transferred directly to those two parts. We've tested out a tower to tower brace and it does lead to broken gearbox cases and bent shock towers from our testing. Even high-grade aluminum or carbon fiber shock towers are still prone to bending or snapping (it takes a lot more force for it to happen, but it does). Also we recommend that you run with your wing in place at all times as it acts as a bumper and absorbs most of the impact energy in crashes/rollovers, by doing so you'll better protect your rear shock tower.

 

[slick2500]

I have using a square tube alu chassi brace almost from day one on my Talion V3, been working well.
I have bent a couple of shocktowers but never the chassiplate nor the gearbox. I have now invested in some carbon fiber shock towers and wonder if it's such a good idea to use a tower to tower brace with these.
Is there anyone here that has carbon fiber shock towers and is using a brace ? Is a tower to tower brace really necessary, is there a lot of you guys out there that doesn't use them at all ?

I read this on Voltage Hobbies page for their alu towers

*NOTE
We don't recommend the use of a "tower to tower brace" as it makes the shock towers and gearbox cases more likely to bend/break under hard impacts/crashes, the reason is most of the energy gets transferred directly to those two parts. We've tested out a tower to tower brace and it does lead to broken gearbox cases and bent shock towers from our testing. Even high-grade aluminum or carbon fiber shock towers are still prone to bending or snapping (it takes a lot more force for it to happen, but it does). Also we recommend that you run with your wing in place at all times as it acts as a bumper and absorbs most of the impact energy in crashes/rollovers, by doing so you'll better protect your rear shock tower.

Yeah man Idk if I would run that with carbon fiber shock towers. I don't think they will be able to handle all that force in one spot like that.

 

[olds97_lss]

Perhaps instead of putting the brace high on the tower, put it at the foot of the tower. Then it still helps keep the chassis from folding in on itself and bending center axles. My bashing buddy with his Talion put on a tower to tower brace just for that, not for the towers, but for the center bones. He kept bending his center bones badly. That was with running alloy chassis braces on the front and rear. The chassis still flexes a lot without the tower to tower brace, you can easily see that by blocking the chassis up on each end and pressing down on the center diff. It doesn't take much effort to flex it quite a bit by hand.

 

[JMS RC]

I'm keeping the brace as low as possible on the alu tower right now. I have seen some other solutions instead of a brace, like a whole alu-plate or carbon fiber plate. I think the carbon fiber towers are strong but like slick2500 said the force impact would be concentrated in one spot, especially on the rear tower.

 

[Sean 1978]

what about silicon? some strips or just one built upon the rear of the motor? I used a cheap heat sink from Integy that fits under the motor perfectly once I removed the fans. It is really lite weight. For shock absorption, you could run a bead of silicone around the edges to offer a little bit of squish. The motor is very over-geared but stays nice and cool with the added heat sink. I also have the heat sink on top that has proline high-velocity fans that also have aluminum housing adding to the heat sink. The motor stays just cool enough to touch without too much discomfort.

 

[slick2500]

what about silicon? some strips or just one built upon the rear of the motor? I used a cheap heat sink from Integy that fits under the motor perfectly once I removed the fans. It is really lite weight. For shock absorption, you could run a bead of silicone around the edges to offer a little bit of squish. The motor is very over-geared but stays nice and cool with the added heat sink. I also have the heat sink on top that has proline high-velocity fans that also have aluminum housing adding to the heat sink. The motor stays just cool enough to touch without too much discomfort.

First was it absolutely necessary to revive this thread from 4 years ago? Second your post has absolutely nothing to do with the discussion at hand........