Kraton tsutton's Build Log - Arrma 1/8 Kraton 4WD EXB Extreme

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
Hey all, new member here but a long time RC user.

And thought I'd post the build log for Arrma 1/8 Kraton 4WD EXB Extreme which I've got today. :)

A lot of research was done to find my next RC after I sold the Traxxas Revo 3.3 recently as I found out it was becoming difficult (and frustrating) to be able to get it running smoothly due to my deafness and I had to keep asking someone to 'listen' for the engine tune to get it running perfectly. And it was not very practical to do this because if I went off to find a huge field and drive this truck myself, who do I ask? Hence the decision was made to sell it to fund an electric RC. Shame, really as I do like Nitro once it's running perfectly but in the long run, it was frustrating for me personally.

Anyway, after a research, I narrowed down to this two RCs, which were:

* Traxxas E-Revo 2.0 Brushless VXL-6S
* Arrma 1/8 KRATON 6S V5 4WD BLX

Both of them looked good and I was leaning toward the E-Revo 2 until someone chimed in and mentioned about the Arrma 1/8 Kraton 4WD EXB Extreme Bash Roller where I could configure it to my needs in terms of electronics and that gave me the idea of choosing what I wanted. Perfect! Then someone else chimed in as well and agreed this would be the best choice. That was enough for me to sway my decisions to the EXB.

After comparing with three different stores, offering the kit of electronics as a bundle deals, I put this list together to purchase. They are:

Kraton 4WD EXB Extreme Basher Roller
Hobbywing EZRUN MAX8 with 2200kv motor combo - EC5 connector
Etrox 30.3kg Servo
Overlander D100 v2 100W charger
2 x Overlander EC5 Charge leads
ESC Connector EC5 installation
2 x gensacearespammers Soft case S3 11.1 LiPo 5000mAh 50C EC5
Ikonnik ET3 3 Channel 2.4GHz Transmitter and Receiver
POS Rear Bumper

I am aware the Ikonnik ET3 is cheapo one, but I am more of a stick guy, than a steer wheel guy. All of my past RCs are sticks, so I'm not sure about migrating over to wheel. So I thought I'd start cheap, see how I get on and then decide on a decent system based on what I'm comfortable with in the future.

All of the parts has been ordered, with the bulk of the order arriving today and the other bits arriving Monday with one part on back order (the POS Rear Bumper).

I will take photos as I go along with putting this together.

I hope you will enjoy my journey.
:)


1st post arrived...

IMG_20201219_141441.jpg

The EXB box plus the Hobbywing Ezrun bundle, servo, Overlander charger and charging leads

IMG_20201219_142717.jpg

The EXB itself... It's huge! ?

IMG_20201219_142837.jpg


To compare... Here it is sitting next to Mad Bull and also Absima Thunder Buggy.

IMG_20201219_142854.jpg





I also got the ARA709031 Shim pack, does it mean I have to fit it or it's just the spares?
 
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Been reading on the diffs issue, so I want to take apart my diffs and see if it needs topping up or not. But I can't find what type of strength Diff Fluids that each diffs require. Some say use 10k as that's what stock diffs have, is this right?
 
Welcome ? one of the first things you should do is read your manual thoroughly ? everything you need to know is in there.
I am 100% deaf in both ears. Are you using hearing aids? I’m a bilateral cochlear implant user. I can relate... for awhile I was doing everything by feel with the cars.
 
Been reading on the diffs issue, so I want to take apart my diffs and see if it needs topping up or not. But I can't find what type of strength Diff Fluids that each diffs require. Some say use 10k as that's what stock diffs have, is this right?
I got the same combo motor & ESC in my EXB build and I'm happy with it!Thread 'EXB Kraton Build' https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/exb-kraton-build.30196/

Definitely check your diff oil. Front and rear stock is 10K, center is 100k.

You can go up in weight of you wanted, it's preference. I put 30k in the front, 150k in the center, and 15k I'm the rear.
 
Definitely check your diff oil. Front and rear stock is 10K, center is 100k.

You can go up in weight of you wanted, it's preference. I put 30k in the front, 150k in the center, and 15k I'm the rear.

Diff fluids are pretty much out of stock in my usual hobby shop, but I can order 10K, however no 100K. :(

But based on what I read here, front & rear are usually low with the centre as full up, so I think I should be OK with 10K to start off with to top them up and buy more later on.
Welcome ? one of the first things you should do is read your manual thoroughly ? everything you need to know is in there.
I am 100% deaf in both ears. Are you using hearing aids? I’m a bilateral cochlear implant user. I can relate... for awhile I was doing everything by feel with the cars.

Same but I use HAs.

Thanks for the welcome.
 
Next... Mounting the ESC. No side screw mounts from the ESC so will go with double sided tape and cable tie to hold it securely.

But first, as discussed elsewhere, the 'lip' on the ESC mount needs to be removed due to the servo mount. Bit annoying but not a show stopper.

IMG_20201220_144456.jpg

IMG_20201220_145056.jpg

IMG_20201220_145100.jpg

Hi Tony, good to see you on here (y)

You stalking me?! ? Good to see you here as well. ?
 
That's the ESC sorted. Had to figure out the best way to mount it and have the power switch mounted as well. Think this will do for now.

IMG_20201220_153917.jpg

Next... The radio receiver.

Due to the tight space, I had to remove the battery mount which is screwed to the receiver mount box. Then I can thread the aerial easily.

IMG_20201220_154844.jpg
 
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By the way, for the cappack, bit annoying about this as I would have to cut the wire cover in order to install it. But, is this really needed? The ESC says it supports 6S but the manual says I need to install it if I use 6S batteries and that if the ESC goes more than 85c 'often'.

I'm thinking to leave it and do some test runs, see how I get on.

But here's where I would install if I had to do it.

IMG_20201220_161017.jpg
 
At the same time, I fitted the servo as well. It was tight! But a bit of wiggling about, managed to get it down in the mount.

IMG_20201220_164009.jpg


Then wired them up to the receiver.

IMG_20201220_164529.jpg

IMG_20201220_164709.jpg

Have put all back together and it's looking good.

Now... Time to take apart the diffs and make sure it has enough fluids in there. Hope it has enough in there as I don't have anything to top it up as it's on order. ?

IMG_20201220_165929.jpg
 
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When I removed the gear, I did see the fluids breaking away from the internal gears, so it might be full anyway?

What brand of fluids should I go for? I already have the Associated Factory Team Silicone Diff Fluids (10k) on order, but don't have the 100k as it's out of stock. However I do have the option to buy the Fastrax CML Racing Pure Silicone Diff Oil 100,000 cst which is the same as 100k? Is the brand okay?
 
I'm confused and hoping you can help.

Manual do not tally up with what I have found for the rear diff.

IMG_20201222_143632.jpg


See the image where it says 'FRONT'?

Well, this is what I see in the rear diff....


IMG_20201222_143647.jpg

PDF manual - https://www.arrma-rc.com/pdf/manuals/ARB200024011.pdf

Page 16 and 17 is the same as my paper manual.

BUT, with the exploded diagrams, it does match with what I have- https://www.arrma-rc.com/pdf/exploded-views/ARA106053.pdf - page 5

I guess they changed the design of the diffs but didn't bother with updating the paper manual or the PDF manual?

Can anyone confirm my thinking?
 
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