Tubing On Shock Shaft to Prevent Bottoming Out?

[JustAnOutcast]

What are your thoughts on adding a .25”/6mm piece of silicone tubing to the bottom of the shock rods to prevent bottoming out? I know racers like to limit shock travel both up and down, but was wondering if limiting down travel is beneficial for bashing?

 

[dure16]

I think this part number is often used for it: AXIA1358

 

[Sandracer_NL]

That’s no problem, quite a few here do that. You can also get stiffer springs as fuel tube can be used for that last bit of fine tuning, not meant to act as springs.

 

[JustAnOutcast]

I think this part number is often used for it: AXIA1358

Ah. Found them, thanks.

 

[slick2500]

It's actually recommended to prevent the diff out drives from digging into the a arms.

 

[Infraction666]

Traxxas has some blue bump stoppers from those gtr shocks, the Lodi lmt have some red ones

 

[slick2500]

Traxxas has some blue bump stoppers from those gtr shocks, the Lodi lmt have some red ones View attachment 263475 View attachment 263474

The Traxxas ones are kind of short though like 2-3mm, you would need a few of them per shock to make much of a difference.

 

[Double Apex]

I have done it to prevent the front driveshafts from popping out.

 

[SrC]

What are your thoughts on adding a .25”/6mm piece of silicone tubing to the bottom of the shock rods to prevent bottoming out? I know racers like to limit shock travel both up and down, but was wondering if limiting down travel is beneficial for bashing?

View attachment 263418

I just did this On my FT. Not to limit bottoming out however. You need to have full chassis slap at F and R.
I used Nitro Fuel tubing aprox 4-5 mm like you, so when the arms are fully compressed, the front CVD bones don't pop out of the diff output cups. Thats how I dialed in the length of the Fuel tubing. Not too much where the Fr chassis can't touch the ground. That's too much.
Chassis should bottom out for hard bashing. Or you will break other parts, if not.

 

[JustAnOutcast]

You need to have full chassis slap at F and R.

Chassis should bottom out for hard bashing. Or you will break other parts, if not.

Wow, I’ve never heard this before, thanks for the tip! So chassis slap is desirable for bashing and jumping?

 

[slick2500]

Wow, I’ve never heard this before, thanks for the tip! So chassis slap is desirable for bashing and jumping?

Yes. If not you will blow apart the shocks, bent or break the shock standoffs, or even bent the shock towers although I find the standsoff on the Arrma 6s will let go before the tower bends.

 

[SrC]

Yeah its common for new RC'ers to question this. New to this, Initial logic says you don't want the chassis to hit the ground. On the contrary however, these bashers are desiged to slap the ground, with much less damage. Some cringe hearing the chassis slapping hard onto the ground, I get it.
But that is fine. Can't prevent that.
If you count on the suspension to keep the chassis suspended at all times, with big air landings and hard bashing, Shocks, shock ends, Arms and Hubs will break. Like @slick2500 stated above.

 

[Tex Koder]

What are your thoughts on adding a .25”/6mm piece of silicone tubing to the bottom of the shock rods to prevent bottoming out? I know racers like to limit shock travel both up and down, but was wondering if limiting down travel is beneficial for bashing?

View attachment 263418

I'd imagine another method to help your shocks from Not completely bottoming out would be to add some sort of Underside chassis rails..
They don't have to be obnoxious or overly obtrusive.. Just something to give it a bit of leeway and still give your shocks full compression movement..

 

[Jerold]

I used Nitro tubing on the back of my Limitless. It works well, but it's a royal pain in the --- to install.

Now the front is chassis slapping, so I'm going a different direction. I found some grommets at Lowes that look like this (tall as square edged), so I'm going try these in the front. Two different sizes, 7/32" inner x 3/8" high and 1/4" inner by 1/4" high. Both of which will "hopefully" just slide on. One of each on each side will give me 5/8" cushion, or I can cut one if 1/2 or mix and match.

More experimentation.

 

[JustAnOutcast]

Yes. If not you will blow apart the shocks, bent or break the shock standoffs, or even bent the shock towers although I find the standsoff on the Arrma 6s will let go before the tower bends.

If you count on the suspension to keep the chassis suspended at all times, with big air landings and hard bashing, Shocks, shock ends, Arms and Hubs will break.

This really is a Eureka! moment for me guys. And it causes me to re-examine what I’m trying to accomplish. Which is a good thing!

Old thinking - prevent chassis slap and shocks from bottoming out.

New thinking - chassis slap is necessary as it helps absorb some of the impact energy which could destroy weaker parts.

So, add a little extra chassis protection with skid plate(s), small piece of tubing on shock rods keeps shocks from bottoming out but also helps limit over-travel of dog bones/driveshafts.

I'd imagine another method to help your shocks from Not completely bottoming out would be to add some sort of Underside chassis rails..
They don't have to be obnoxious or overly obtrusive.. Just something to give it a bit of leeway and still give your shocks full compression movement..

Ha! Always the part-maker mentality. Soon you’ll be printing me an entire truck!