Kraton turning circle sucks and end points V5 6s

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Darvid

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Location
Perth Australia
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
Hi all, I know there is allot on here about this but just wanted to clear it up.
So while the RC is off the ground you get full steering.
While it’s driving the turning circle sucks.
do I need to tighten the servo saver to fix this and how tight would you go as if you go too tight then you kill the servo.

part 2 question
My alinement is really out. To fix I try taking off the horn and move it a few teeth?
Or can you fix this by setting end points

currently just have the steering rate turn down on the transmitter so I’m not killing my Servo
 
Hi all, I know there is allot on here about this but just wanted to clear it up.
So while the RC is off the ground you get full steering.
While it’s driving the turning circle sucks.
do I need to tighten the servo saver to fix this and how tight would you go as if you go too tight then you kill the servo.

part 2 question
My alinement is really out. To fix I try taking off the horn and move it a few teeth?
Or can you fix this by setting end points

currently just have the steering rate turn down on the transmitter so I’m not killing my Servo
If possible I'd swap out the stock servo for something else. The RTR servos are pretty weak and living on borrowed time. I suggest the DS3225. You can tighten your servo saver by adding some circlips or e-rings between the spring washer and the saver tube base, effectively shortening the spring.

To recenter the servo as best as possible, power up the truck, set trim to zero, pop the horn off, and realign as best the teeth allow. Then trim from there. Endpoint adjust should be set so that you get maximum steering without flexing the servo saver while it is sitting in the ground. If you don't have EPA on your transmitter, you can turn down the steering D/R until neither side flexes the servo saver.


EDIT: I just realized this thread is for Kraton 8S, not 6S 🤦‍♂️ don't listen to me
 
Last edited:
If possible I'd swap out the stock servo for something else. The RTR servos are pretty weak and living on borrowed time. I suggest the DS3225. You can tighten your servo saver by adding some circlips or e-rings between the spring washer and the saver tube base, effectively shortening the spring.

To recenter the servo as best as possible, power up the truck, set trim to zero, pop the horn off, and realign as best the teeth allow. Then trim from there. Endpoint adjust should be set so that you get maximum steering without flexing the servo saver while it is sitting in the ground. If you don't have EPA on your transmitter, you can turn down the steering D/R until neither side flexes the servo saver.


EDIT: I just realized this thread is for Kraton 8S, not 6S 🤦‍♂️ don't listen to me
My mistake, no it’s 6s I just seen that I posted under 8s
Sorry about that. I’ll see if I can some how change that.

All good advice that I’m going to try.
I actually have a Servox 35kg titanium gear that I bought installed and died after 1 pack and I feel I was not that hard on it. Lucky I just received my stock servo back as that one was just replaced under warranty after I killed that one.

just returned the Servox today
However the hobby shop gave me a hard time
Giving me every excuse that it won’t be covered under warranty.
It’s made for a plane not
My car is too powerful
My horn is too long ( it’s not )
I thrashed it


I eventually convinced them to sent it back to Servox
See what happens
 
Buy a DS3235KG or 25KG. Will last the same as a Servox and be powerful enough.

Otherwise ABabyEater pretty much nailed it. Set your endpoints (though I usually do this with no load on the tires i.e. in the air), center the horn by powering the vehicle on and putting the horn on as close to center as you can use the steering trim to correct it if needed (Make sure the trim is centered when you do this).

With properly set endpoints you can have the DR cranked all the way up, though I usually back it down just a hair after I set the endpoints.

If you haven't added any clips to the Servo Saver, add at least 2 1/2 inch c-clips, maybe 3.

And finally make sure that your steering horn and steering servo arm are parallel to each other.
 
Buy a DS3235KG or 25KG. Will last the same as a Servox and be powerful enough.

Otherwise ABabyEater pretty much nailed it. Set your endpoints (though I usually do this with no load on the tires i.e. in the air), center the horn by powering the vehicle on and putting the horn on as close to center as you can use the steering trim to correct it if needed (Make sure the trim is centered when you do this).

With properly set endpoints you can have the DR cranked all the way up, though I usually back it down just a hair after I set the endpoints.

If you haven't added any clips to the Servo Saver, add at least 2 1/2 inch c-clips, maybe 3.

And finally make sure that your steering horn and steering servo arm are parallel to each other.
Thanks for the great advice
Yep made a mistake with the Servox Could have got 4 off the DS servos with the price I paid for the Servox
Will cut my losses if they don’t warranty and get the DS3235KG
They said will find out if a few weeks if they will replace it.
 
Hobby shop open the Servox, it’s cooked.
15min use and they said they won’t warranty it
 
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