Typhon Typhon 3S chassis replacement

[xplatinum]

My son just broke the chassis of his Typhon 3S. At first I thought it was only the "Composite Front Rear Upper Gearbox Covers and Shock Tower, ARAC4400" but it ended up being much more than that. Replacing the chassis involves removing every single component and I have very little knowledge of how to rebuild everything back up.

Any advice? I couldn't find a YT video that explains the process step by step.

 

[dillon_mitko]

Put screws back in the components that they came out of and record yourself disassembling it so you can rewatch to rebuild it. When you are disassembling it start at the front or that back and just start taking stuff off. That’s how I did it the first time and I learned so much from it about my truck!

 

[jondilly1974]

Oh man Ive done it so many times it’s like washing my hands these days. ???

I don’t know if a video. It really is pretty simple as far as this hobby goes. There really isn’t a hard part, but getting the power module out might be considered the hardest part. Maybe getting the servo arm back on.

 

[Yas]

3s Typhon exploded view helps a lot! File attached or click the link

https://www.arrma-rc.com/support/downloads/TYPHON/BLX 4X4/ALL

It will take a bit of time to swap a chassis so make sure your work bench won't get interfered with by pesky kids!!!

 

[suchtragedy]

Its not so bad, just take whatever you pull off one chassis and immediately install it on your replacement so everything goes together smoothly and immediately after you remove it, less mixing up stuff that way. I normally start with removing all the electronics first then doing rear section and finishing last with front section.

When you're removing your electronics leave your servo saver connected and instead disconnect it from the steering crank assembly, pic below circled in red, to access this screw just turn the wheels left. After that the servo and ESC can come out as once piece by removing the 4 screws with dots next to them, circled in blue in the pic below.

 

[pl9171]

Any advice?

Need good MIP tools and a bunch of left screws...
Just love to rebuild all those RC chassis. Even the gymmy Hoshim RC.
note; I put a patented brace last year on 3s chassis last year and we never broke up a chassis, even on 30 feet jump.

 

[Jasonkw]

Here is one for a granite which is pretty much the same thing

 

[xplatinum]

Need good MIP tools and a bunch of left screws...
Just love to rebuild all those RC chassis. Even the gymmy Hoshim RC.
note; I put a patented brace last year on 3s chassis last year and we never broke up a chassis, even on 30 feet jump.

That's a lovely track!

I'm gonna start looking at aluminium upgrades for my Typhon 6S

 

[Atsoca]

Just did the chassis swap yesterday... First time... Took a little over an hour... pretty straight forward.....
By the way where can I get that chassis brace I would LOVE to do that

 

[jondilly1974]

Just did the chassis swap yesterday... First time... Took a little over an hour... pretty straight forward.....
By the way where can I get that chassis brace I would LOVE to do that

There are quite a few parts you need to add the 4S chassis brace, but I would caution that it really didn’t save mine. I have one on my K4S and Granite and both still broke. I don’t think they really are worth much other than I use them for wire management.

 

[pl9171]

That's a lovely track!
I'm gonna start looking at aluminium upgrades for my Typhon 6S

Yep. Ex-football turf. But right now with the COVID, the track will be closed for a couple of months...
Upgrade, Typhon 6s? you can pm me.

By the way where can I get that chassis brace I would LOVE to do that

From Post#6? Here;

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/new-typhon-3s-coming-in-old-mega-on-brushless-conversion.11725/

Still useful.

 

[y noT]

If you every swap chassis, a good thing to do is get a Fast Eddie Bearing set for your vehicle and replace any bad bearings, or all if you prefer, but definitely put in the 4 tiny bearing that go in the servo saver top and bottom on both sides. It will help your servo and give your it longevity. They put bushings in there but in the manual recommend you change to bearings. As much as we pay for these things and they cant add the smallest bearing in an RC? The 1/10s are plastic 1/8 metal. Causes friction and strain on servo and over time, wear out the bushings or your mount they sit on in your chassis. I finally got my chassis by accident, I saw at my LHS that they had limited quantities so I called this morning to have them hold it. And explained I've been waiting on a special order one for a while now, and I was told that this one was a canceled preordered one. Good thing, I got tired of seeing all these same chassis in a bucket behind the counter and they were all backordered ones for other customers. Rrrr. But hey, got one. Now time to charge the screwdriver. . And spray the whole chassis (except motor slide) with Flex Seal. That may help keep the debris out of the gears since the spur and pinion cover doesn't do the job all. Or like I said either a street car from now on or getting rid of it. I just like the dang thing to much to get rid of it. When it runs, is one of my favorites, Typhon 3s BLX, Kraton 6s V5, Notorious 6s V4, Rustler 4x4 vxl, Hoss 4x4, 2 Slash trucks, one with On Board Audio (sounds wicked and no longer made) and the X-MAXX. And I like the Typhon 3s (when rinning) 2nd out of all. Dependability Rustler 4x4 vxl started as an Xl-5 and when from there just have to paint my new body, its has no problems just upgrades and maintenance, Hoss in 2 with only couple times snapping shafts (but with 1mil center diff what can you expect if stuck and not sure what's in the whole walking to it and try to move it out only to find out it's stationary and you snap a shaft), notorious good so far ,body thick but once it cracks and you don't reinforce, it will act like glass and everytime you run it the vibration cracks it more and quick, rhe XMaxx back two tires hardly head glue on them so they are sendinf me a new pair (had to send pics and he saw that there was no sign of adhesive period and the kraton 6s v5 my last arrma and probably rc for now, first time out noticed that if the transmitter was bumped it would turn off, if bumped again it would come back on so they traded out one for me at the LHS, and then running for 15 min after work brought it to me and went to pick it up and it was extremely hot on the bottom and it wasn't hot at night after work aw smoke coming from it, the center diff front bearing was shoved between the holder not in the slot behind it where it should be. It was melting the plastic bearing holder. Again center dif was warranted out right ther and I bought the aluminum bearing holder, plus the mesh was a little tight. Always check everything front to back when buying an arrma and register it and don't be afraid to call them if you have issues. Good thing is their professional and they will warranty out the faulty stuff, bad thing is the backorder because everyone is having the same issues and arrma doesn't keep up with the demand on their parts. When you put out new electronics you should always wait to put the vehicle out until you have enough parts to send to Hobby shops and ready to warranty out the defects.