Typhon Typhon 4x4 Front Diff Catching

[Schnitz]

I replaced all the bearings/bushings with sealed bearings in order to try to get some more life out of my replacement motor I just waited 2 months for. When I pulled out the front diff, I noticed it wasn't spinning smoothly. Internally it's all good. The problem seems to be the differential yoke. Once I put it all together, if I leave a 2 mm gap where the two yoke pieces come together (on the side where the input gear comes through) it spins perfectly. I inserted a spare new differential and new input gear, and found it to be catching just the same when the yoke is closed properly. With the gap, that worked smoothly again. I spent a few hours last night trying different things, but the only things I could come up with that made things spin completely freely was leaving the gap. Anyone run into this before or have suggestions? Thanks!

 

[Camaroboy383]

Did the yokes melt at all from a bad bearing? It's pretty common

What side of the carrier is the shim on? I have a few diffs that like the shim on the gear side (which is normal) and I have a couple that like the shim on the cup side..

Only one gasket on the cup correct? You didnt stack two by accident?

How did you remove the gear side bearing on the pinion? (Input gear) no damage to the bearing land correct? It's extremely easy to kill the bearing land, after that the bearing doesn't seat fully... this will push the pinion into the carrier further than it was designed.. on that note, if the land was fine, is the bearing seated all the way to the land?

Lastly a slight bind is pretty normal on a new set of gears, but not that normal on a lapped set of gears..

 

[jondilly1974]

I used to only tighten the yoke screws to the point of no binding. If you can tighten them snug and still have side play, then you’ll need to shim the ring side.

 

[Schnitz]

Thanks very much. I’ll look at it again tonight and update the thread tomorrow.

 

[Schnitz]

Took longer to get back to it than I expected... The problem seems to be that I can't get the bearing fully seated on the input gear. I pulled out a brand new input gear and another one of the Fast Eddy sealed bearings I'm using, and I can't get it to fully seat on the brand new input gear as well. It's close, but I can tell it's not as tight as it was from factory. I've used a rubber mallet and socket to try to pound the bearing into place to no avail. Some people said that the freezer could help so I put the input gear with the bearing slid as far as I can get it into the freezer for 20 minutes, but after that I still couldn't pound it down any more. I currently have the input gears with bearings back in the freezer for a longer stretch, but I'm not too hopeful. While I have everything assembled, if I pull on the input gear a little, it meshes like butter with the diff case and there's no undesirable friction. Let me know if you have a trick for getting the bearing fully seated on the input gear. Thanks again!

 

[Camaroboy383]

There is a small land molded into the pinion shank.. the bearing can only go to that land.. a hammer and a socket more than definitely got it there no doubt.. unless it was exceptionally crooked while being driven down...

I have a feeling something is a miss here.. when you removed the bearing on the ring gear side of the carrier there was 1 shim correct? .2mm in thickness? There wasn't a bearing retainer left over from the old bearing or anything? That you had possibly mistaken as another factory shim?

Take pictures of the yokes, they aren't melted at all right?