TYPHON 6S BLX V4 MAXIMUM SPEED UPGRADE HELP

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hey there Liberty,

DOT 3 is what some people use. Others state that it also removes the plasticizers from the lexan, leaving it brittle.

Since I already scraped-off the paint, I had to figure-out a way to get rid of the scratches. Some are pretty deep. Sanding them down was not an option. Then it dawned on me, rather than getting rid of the scratches, why not just fill them in. I took a piece of scrap lexan, scratched it up, and applied (2) layers of "Zap" medium grade glue. When it cured, the scratches were gone. However, it did turn the lexan milky white. After applying a couple coats of paint, the scratches and discoloration from the glue were gone.

Since the weather is too wet and cold to paint my F40 body, I have applied the glue and put it in one of my spare bedrooms, so I'm not breathing the fumes. When the weather is right, I'll finish painting the body and pray that all goes well.
I'm ready to take the Typhon to the local, private airport and hopefully get permission to run it. However, I think that there is an issue with the steering. It doesn't look like it will straighten-out in the neutral position. I've tried adjusting the trim on the 3PV, and readjusting the servo arm doesn't look like it will fix the problem. I purchased the "DS3225 25KG" that you suggested. Is there any way to adjust it?
 
I'm ready to take the Typhon to the local, private airport and hopefully get permission to run it. However, I think that there is an issue with the steering. It doesn't look like it will straighten-out in the neutral position. I've tried adjusting the trim on the 3PV, and readjusting the servo arm doesn't look like it will fix the problem. I purchased the "DS3225 25KG" that you suggested. Is there any way to adjust it?
Have you tried adjusting the steering link turnbuckles?
 
I'm ready to take the Typhon to the local, private airport and hopefully get permission to run it. However, I think that there is an issue with the steering. It doesn't look like it will straighten-out in the neutral position. I've tried adjusting the trim on the 3PV, and readjusting the servo arm doesn't look like it will fix the problem. I purchased the "DS3225 25KG" that you suggested. Is there any way to adjust it?
I have a small private airport very close to me, it never occurred to me to ask if there was a good/open time for me to do speed runs...
Now you have me thinking ?
Even the taxi ways might work...
 
Have you tried adjusting the steering link turnbuckles?
Hey jon,

Yes, I adjusted them equally, to set my "camber" angle. My "toe" is also set. It just looks off. What I need to do, is take it for a short run. If it veers off to one side, ( as it looks like it will), and since the transmitter is at its max. steering trim, maybe if I remove the batteries from the transmitter, it will loose its memory, and when the batteries are reinstalled, it will allow for more adjustment.
 
I have a small private airport very close to me, it never occurred to me to ask if there was a good/open time for me to do speed runs...
Now you have me thinking ?
Even the taxi ways might work...
Hey Hammer Down,

I haven't been to the airport yet, but when I do go, I will let them know that this will simply be a quick test to see how fast the car will go, I won't be "playing around", and I won't be bringing anyone else with me for future tests. I'll even offer to build,or "soup-up" a car for them or their kid, (if they pay for the car and parts). If they agree, it will be like RC car heaven.

Good luck at your airport!
 
Last edited:
Hey jon,

Yes, I adjusted them equally, to set my "camber" angle. My "toe" is also set. It just looks off. What I need to do, is take it for a short run. If it veers off to one side, ( as it looks like it will), and since the transmitter is at its max. steering trim, maybe if I remove the batteries from the transmitter, it will loose its memory, and when the batteries are reinstalled, it will allow for more adjustment.
Quick question, did you set the toe after turning the car on and centering the trim?
 
Quick question, did you set the toe after turning the car on and centering the trim?
To expand on that I would say it goes in these steps:
1. Center the settings on the radio.
2. Turn the car on and let the servo center.
3. Remove the Aluminum servo horn and re install relative to its new position.
4. Set toe links for fine adjustment. (you could do this with the car still on so the servo is held in its correct position by the electronics)
(safest to do this with the pinion removed)
 
Quick question, did you set the toe after turning the car on and centering the trim?
I set the toe before turning the car on.
To expand on that I would say it goes in these steps:
1. Center the settings on the radio.
2. Turn the car on and let the servo center.
3. Remove the Aluminum servo horn and re install relative to its new position.
4. Set toe links for fine adjustment. (you could do this with the car still on so the servo is held in its correct position by the electronics)
(safest to do this with the pinion removed)
Thank's, That makes perfect sense.

Bye the way, I'm using the stock servo arm that came with the car. I don't think the aluminum one that came with the servo fits the setup.
 
Last edited:
This is the 2mm F40 body, minus the back spoiler. Fits like a glove.View attachment 64306View attachment 64307
Well, I like the design, but there are issues with the painting. Anyway, only one thing left to do. See if it runs!
F40 FRONT.JPG
F40 L SIDE.JPG
F40 R SIDE.JPG
F40 REAR.JPG
 
To expand on that I would say it goes in these steps:
1. Center the settings on the radio.
2. Turn the car on and let the servo center.
3. Remove the Aluminum servo horn and re install relative to its new position.
4. Set toe links for fine adjustment. (you could do this with the car still on so the servo is held in its correct position by the electronics)
(safest to do this with the pinion removed)
Hey Liberty,

Well, I just charged (2) 4S batteries to use when I take my car out for its maiden voyage tomorrow morning, and to get the feel of how it feels.

After (hopefully) correcting the front end alignment, I took the car outside to see if it would run straight. When I pulled the throttle trigger full bore, the car didn't respond, but when I started slow, it worked. Is that normal? Also, since I have the 6S "Ripple Killer" cap pack installed, and will be running 4S batteries, (for now), will that cause any issues? Bye the way, I'm using a 29 tooth pinion gear. The 27 tooth just seemed to be a bit too far from the spool gear for a proper fit.

Do you have any final suggestions regarding the settings on my 3PV?

If everything pans-out, I'll install the 6S Graphene bricks, and head-off to the airport later next week, and hopefully see what this car can do.
 
Hey Liberty,

Well, I just charged (2) 4S batteries to use when I take my car out for its maiden voyage tomorrow morning, and to get the feel of how it feels.

After (hopefully) correcting the front end alignment, I took the car outside to see if it would run straight. When I pulled the throttle trigger full bore, the car didn't respond, but when I started slow, it worked. Is that normal? Also, since I have the 6S "Ripple Killer" cap pack installed, and will be running 4S batteries, (for now), will that cause any issues? Bye the way, I'm using a 29 tooth pinion gear. The 27 tooth just seemed to be a bit too far from the spool gear for a proper fit.

Do you have any final suggestions regarding the settings on my 3PV?

If everything pans-out, I'll install the 6S Graphene bricks, and head-off to the airport later next week, and hopefully see what this car can do.
You may need to recalibrate your throttle end points. It should go on full pull.

The 6S Ripple Killer is fine at up to 35V, so anything under that is fine.

Something you didn't ask, but I am going to add in, check your brakes before you need them. Make some 1/4 pulls with plenty of space to stop and get a feel for it. I need at least 100ft to stop my Typhon 3S due to the extreme gearing. I may end up putting my MM2R into that rig to gain some braking strength because the BLX185 isn't cutting it.
 
Hey Liberty,

Well, I just charged (2) 4S batteries to use when I take my car out for its maiden voyage tomorrow morning, and to get the feel of how it feels.

After (hopefully) correcting the front end alignment, I took the car outside to see if it would run straight. When I pulled the throttle trigger full bore, the car didn't respond, but when I started slow, it worked. Is that normal? Also, since I have the 6S "Ripple Killer" cap pack installed, and will be running 4S batteries, (for now), will that cause any issues? Bye the way, I'm using a 29 tooth pinion gear. The 27 tooth just seemed to be a bit too far from the spool gear for a proper fit.

Do you have any final suggestions regarding the settings on my 3PV?

If everything pans-out, I'll install the 6S Graphene bricks, and head-off to the airport later next week, and hopefully see what this car can do.
Echoing Jon's comments go through the esc throttle calibration again. Also on the radio menu make sure the channel for throttle is set to 100%.

I usually turn my steering down to 35-45% so I don't over correct steering during a run...
 
You may need to recalibrate your throttle end points. It should go on full pull.

The 6S Ripple Killer is fine at up to 35V, so anything under that is fine.

Something you didn't ask, but I am going to add in, check your brakes before you need them. Make some 1/4 pulls with plenty of space to stop and get a feel for it. I need at least 100ft to stop my Typhon 3S due to the extreme gearing. I may end up putting my MM2R into that rig to gain some braking strength because the BLX185 isn't cutting it.
Thank's Jon,

I ll do that.

My brakes are working well. 100ft to stop! I never would have thought that. I'll make sure there's plenty of room.
Echoing Jon's comments go through the esc throttle calibration again. Also on the radio menu make sure the channel for throttle is set to 100%.

I usually turn my steering down to 35-45% so I don't over correct steering during a run...
I believe the throttle is set at 50% or 75%. I'll change it to 100%

I was thinking that maybe the reason the car seemed to run oddly, is because I'm running a spool, a pinion that is nearly the same size, and 1,000,000CST in the diffs, among other things. This ain't no Tamiya Grasshopper!!!
 
Last edited:
Thank's Jon,

I ll do that.

My brakes are working well. 100ft to stop! I never would have thought that. I'll make sure there's plenty of room.

I believe the throttle is set at 50% or 75%. I'll change it to 100%

I was thinking that maybe the reason the car seemed to run oddly, is because I'm running a spool, a pinion that is nearly the same size, and 1,000,000CST in the diffs, among other things. This ain't no Tamiya Grasshopper!!!
After dropping a pair of 4S batteries

Echoing Jon's comments go through the esc throttle calibration again. Also on the radio menu make sure the channel for throttle is set to 100%.

I usually turn my steering down to 35-45% so I don't over correct steering during a run...
Echoing Jon's comments go through the esc throttle calibration again. Also on the radio menu make sure the channel for throttle is set to 100%.

I usually turn my steering down to 35-45% so I don't over correct steering during a run...
After dropping a pair of 4S batteries into the Typhon, (if you can call it that anymore), I went to a large, empty parking lot to see if it would run, and if it did, how to control it. After about 45 minutes, the car was running well. Absolutely no issues. Very easy to drive.

Early the next morning, I loaded it up with a pair of 6S Graphene 5.0s, and headed-out to the airport to finally see what kind of of speed I could get out of it.

Rather than using the F40 body, I decided to use the spare Typhon body that I had painted. Since the aerodynamics weren't that good, I covered the car from the bottom of the "Mugen" front bumper to the highest point on the middle of the body with "Gorilla" duct tape, ( to help keep the body from being torn off at high speed, and basically creating a pointed wedge). I then applied tape from the front of the car, to the back of the batteries, to complete this arrowhead design. The last thing to do was pull the trigger.

Was I nervous? ABAOLUTELY! You know the saying, "A picture is worth a thousand words"? Mine is worth 102, (check out the photo at the bottom). I suppose that I could squeeze more MPH out of it, but I think I'll play it safe. After all, I am selling it. The new owner can take it from here.

When I started this thread on December 8th of last year, I had no idea about the journey I was about to take. What a trip it has been. Enough about me.

The folks that really deserve the credit are @LibertyMKiii , @jondilly 1974 and all of the others that patiently walked me through this build. Without all of their detailed advice and suggestions, this project would have never been possible.

Thank you guys so much!

Is that it for me? NO WAY!! I've started a new thread= DAVE'S "BELLY TANKER" BUILD I hope that you all will check it out.
102 MPH #2.JPG
 
Last edited:
After dropping a pair of 4S batteries



After dropping a pair of 4S batteries into the Typhon, (if you can it can be called that anymore), I went to a large, empty parking lot to see if it would run, and if it did, how to control it. After about 45 minutes, the car was running well. Absolutely no issues. Very easy to drive.

Early the next morning, I loaded it up with a pair of 6S Graphene 5.0s, and headed-out to the airport to finally see what kind of of speed I could get out of it.

Rather than using the F40 body, I decided to use the spare Typhon body that I had painted. Since the aerodynamics weren't that good, I covered the car from the bottom of the "Mugen" front bumper to the highest point on the middle of the body with "Gorilla" duct tape, ( to help keep the body from being torn off at high speed, and basically creating a pointed wedge). I then applied tape from the front of the car, to the back of the batteries, to complete this arrowhead design. The last thing to do was pull the trigger.

Was I nervous? ABAOLUTELY! You know the saying, "A picture is worth a thousand words"? Mine is worth 102, (check out the photo at the bottom). I suppose that I could squeeze more MPH out of it, but I think I'll play it safe. After all, I am selling it. The new owner can take it from here.

When I started this thread on December 8th of last year, I had no idea about the journey I was about to take. What a journey it has been. Enough about me.

The folks that really deserve the credit are @LibertyMKiii , @jondilly 1974 and all of the others that patiently walked me through this build. Without all of their detailed advice and suggestions, this project would have never been possible.

Thank you guys so much!

Is that it for me? NO WAY!! I've started a new thread= DAVE'S "BELLY TANKER" BUILD I hope that you all will check it out.View attachment 66840
I’m jealous now. I take back all my advice. ???

That’s awesome! You beat my PB by 6 mph on your first pull ????????
 
I have never seen a forum quite like this one... :love:



Yes I'd say 198.00 is a great price for the XL-X



These are probably some of the nicest trays as they have a lateral body mount to solidify the side of the body in addition to your normal top body mounts.
https://emperformanceproducts.com/product/emp-specter-battery-trays-arrma-gt/

FYI the front droop screws I mentioned before that I use are M4x20

Are you any good at soldering? Are you sticking with XT-90 connectors or what is your plan for battery to ESC connectors?

The only other thing you will need before running the XLX is a capacitor pack. There are tons of them "out there" as long as you get 6,000 μF or more capacity in the pack you should be fine. (more is better, but eats up more space). I usually make my own with some wire and set of good caps from Amazon total cost to make is about $15 versus $40+ for pre-made options.

I like to setup my cap packs with a battery connector for times when I do maintenance on the car it is nice to get the cap pack out of the way. I also use clear shrink on them so I can easily see if a cap is starting to mushroom on the top. (most common indicator of a bad capacitor)
View attachment 60190

Without a cap pack the Castle ESCs can get over stressed and self destruct in these high amperage speed run uses ?
Old thread but I have some of the lateral body mounts from EMP and I have no clue how to use them. Could you point me in the right direction? I only found your post because I searched the forums trying to see if anyone else used em :ROFLMAO:
 
Old thread but I have some of the lateral body mounts from EMP and I have no clue how to use them. Could you point me in the right direction? I only found your post because I searched the forums trying to see if anyone else used em :ROFLMAO:
Honestly, I never used them or seen them used correctly. (I think the size is too big)

Their website says: "YOU CAN USE ANY STANDARD RC BODY CLIP OR YOU CAN USE PROLINE 607002 BODY MOUNT THUMBWASHER KIT"
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top