TYPHON 6S BLX V4 MAXIMUM SPEED UPGRADE HELP

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That 26/34 gearing should get 90 mph. Get used to going fast with that and then you may want to move up to a 29t pinion.

Traxxas makes a 1,000,000 fluid. I must have imagined a 2 mill.

Check out this very well done video (not mine) on using Mugen parts for body mounting:

You would use side battery trays to run parallel 6s packs. EM Performance or Saga Custom RC are 2 big names for those parts. I suspect that would be more beneficial if running higher amps on a castle esc. You may want light weight (single pack) for the rocket.

It sounds like you are well on your way to a 100+ mph Arrma Typhon!
I am also using the mugen front bumper and body mounts; customized.
 
1 mill should be fine.
No problem, I am happy to help! I wish I had some good guidance when I started years ago...
Avatar /profile looks good.
Hey Liberty,

I turned 68 years old a few days ago, and still can't decide what to buy for my birthday. Maybe you can make some suggestions?

I just finished reading your thread, Liberty's "Unlimited" dream speed build, (again). What an impressive piece of work!!! Almost brought me to tears. On page (6), you discuss buying certain, high priced "brand name" components over lesser priced ones, that function as good, if not better. In regard to my straight, asphalt surface running "rocket" car= Typhon 6s V4. I have a few questions.

1) What ESC/motor combination do you suggest, would be the fastest, running both (1) 5000mAh batteries, and (2) 5000mAh in parallel? If the higher end components, such as the "Castle X-LX, ESC is optimal choice, that's fine. Their X-LX combo package looks nice, but can you think of a better marriage for ESC/Motor.

Also, You don't use "shocks" in the Unlimited build. What are you using? It seems like it might work for my car, to lower it way down.

Have you ever considered writing a book about RC cars?

Have a great day!

Thank's
 
XLX is regarded as the best speed running ESC. I believe you will find most speed runners using a TP Power motor, the biggest you can fit. 4070 is a common choice. I’m sure someone here will chime in.
 
Hey Liberty,

I turned 68 years old a few days ago, and still can't decide what to buy for my birthday. Maybe you can make some suggestions?

I just finished reading your thread, Liberty's "Unlimited" dream speed build, (again). What an impressive piece of work!!! Almost brought me to tears. On page (6), you discuss buying certain, high priced "brand name" components over lesser priced ones, that function as good, if not better. In regard to my straight, asphalt surface running "rocket" car= Typhon 6s V4. I have a few questions.

1) What ESC/motor combination do you suggest, would be the fastest, running both (1) 5000mAh batteries, and (2) 5000mAh in parallel? If the higher end components, such as the "Castle X-LX, ESC is optimal choice, that's fine. Their X-LX combo package looks nice, but can you think of a better marriage for ESC/Motor.

Also, You don't use "shocks" in the Unlimited build. What are you using? It seems like it might work for my car, to lower it way down.

Have you ever considered writing a book about RC cars?

Have a great day!

Thank's
Happy late birthday my friend!
I don't believe I am up to the task of writing a book, but I might create a blog soon...
Running no shocks requires the most perfect road. I used some steering links and camber links from Traxxas Slash 4x4. We don't have good roads here in Texas so that make it complicated for me. A combination of financial issues a and our bad roads are why that car will be sold soon. I will be continuing to pursue with the Typhon and the same streamlined body.
If your body choice has room to run the Limitless shocks & towers that will be the best solution. Keeping the tires on contact with the surface is the suspension's job. The legend Nic Case found at speeds over 170 it was necessary to remove suspension due to aerodynamic forces.
Using the droop screws you can lower the car all the way to the ground so I think you will have no issues lowering the car.

As @jondilly1974 said the XL-X is the ESC that everyone uses going over 120.
For motors TP Power is best for the money. NeuMotors is likely the best but easily 2x the price for minimal differences in speed.

I would recommend a D wind motor in the 4050 4060 series.
The 4070 is good also but may not fit...
Ideally you want to look for something in the 2100 to 2400 kv range.

When ordering a TP motor you will likely want the 5mm shaft and end caps with M4 screws to match the Arrma mount.
 
XLX is regarded as the best speed running ESC. I believe you will find most speed runners using a TP Power motor, the biggest you can fit. 4070 is a common choice. I’m sure someone here will chime in.
Thank's. I'll write that down, and see what others may suggest.
 
Hey buddy,

After receiving a bunch of parts yesterday, I decided to start getting my hands dirty. (1) Installed "Fast Eddy" bearings on wheels and spool gear. (2) GTX01-S2, T01 REVO, belted tires/wheels= 96mm diameter, (the stock set are 115mm), Installed Limitless spool, (The stock 50T center diff. looks like a wagon wheel sitting next to the spool). (3) Adjusted the droop so swing arms sit parallel. Installed Hot Racing NRO6509 sshock springs=much stiffer than stock. (4) Installed Yeah Racing heat sink/twin fan unit.

I ran into a problem. A big one. To get to the droop screws on the front, I had to remove the upper wishbone pins, (the one with the "shims"), to free it. When I went to reattach the swing arm I was missing one of the thinner shims. I looked everywhere. Couldn't find it, so I only included 1 thick shim and 1 thin on each side, and made up for the space by over tightening the screw to make-up for the space. When I was finished, guess what? I found the missing shim. When I went back to lnstall the correct amount of shims, the screws wouldn't budge. I'm literally screwed! The only thing I can see doing, is to drill the screw heads off, (down to the shock tower), remove the shims, saw the thread end of the screw off and replace the the piece that the screws tie into, along with new screws, and a bucket full of spare shims. Or, your suggestion= Replace the existing front and rear shocks and tower, with those for the Limitless, (I actually wanted to do that from the start).

Will the Limitless shocks and towers simply screw onto the Typhon? I put my Limitless next to my Typhon, and it looks like it should not require any modifications. Please tell me that is correct. If not, What is needed to do?

I looked all over the internet and can't find a a motor with all of the specs. you mentioned. Do you have a link?

Thank's again for everything!
 
This brings up another point that we had not covered.
MIP Hex wrenches. Worth every penny! It will end that scenario of stripping a hex.

I use a ball end hex on the front droop screws without needing to remove the upper arm. I also install a significantly longer screw in the front to help access. Another tip is that I push the car down as I am adjusting it to make it easier and reduce the torque required to turn that screw. The ball end could strip the hex more easily than a traditional straight edge hex.

This is where I go for TP Power motors. They also have a non US website. https://www.tppowerusa.com/index.php?route=common/home
 
Hello I'm fairly new to the 8th scale seeing myself but I have noticed online because I've had issues with Tire swelling they do sell steel-belted radial tires just like on a real car I hear on forums they helped dramatically it's not like the phone mount the tires that turn into Pizza Cutters at high top speeds LOL.
Hello I'm fairly new to the 8th scale seeing myself but I have noticed online because I've had issues with Tire swelling they do sell steel-belted radial tires just like on a real car I hear on forums they helped dramatically it's not like the phone mount the tires that turn into Pizza Cutters at high top speeds LOL.


Foam mounted tires not phone LOL dang autocorrect.
 
This brings up another point that we had not covered.
MIP Hex wrenches. Worth every penny! It will end that scenario of stripping a hex.

I use a ball end hex on the front droop screws without needing to remove the upper arm. I also install a significantly longer screw in the front to help access. Another tip is that I push the car down as I am adjusting it to make it easier and reduce the torque required to turn that screw. The ball end could strip the hex more easily than a traditional straight edge hex.

This is where I go for TP Power motors. They also have a non US website. https://www.tppowerusa.com/index.php?route=common/home
Thank's Liberty,


I have not had any issues with stripping hex screws. The ones I mentioned above didn't strip, they were just screwed down so tight that that they simply would not unscrew. The longer droop screws is a great idea..

@jondilly1974 said that the Limitless Shocks and shock towers are a direct, drop-in fit for my Thphon. That is great news. I'm duying them NOW.

I'll email tppowerusa.com and give them the specifications that you suggested. Too bad they don't have a contact phone number.

I contacted Delta Plastiks and told them about the Typhon "rocket car" build, and asked if they had any suggestions regarding their bodies, (all of their bidies measured too big or too small). They asked me to give them measurements, and a photo, (before the rocket is installed), and they will give me their best options. That's nice.

Thank's again compadre.
Hello I'm fairly new to the 8th scale seeing myself but I have noticed online because I've had issues with Tire swelling they do sell steel-belted radial tires just like on a real car I hear on forums they helped dramatically it's not like the phone mount the tires that turn into Pizza Cutters at high top speeds LOL.



Foam mounted tires not phone LOL dang autocorrect.
Hey R/C Guy386,

I'm pretty new here on this forum also. Welcome. There are some really smart people here, that are very generous with sharing their knowledge about everything.

The tires that I mentioned above are "belted". I heard about them on this forum.

Have a great day.
 
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Hello I'm fairly new to the 8th scale seeing myself but I have noticed online because I've had issues with Tire swelling they do sell steel-belted radial tires just like on a real car I hear on forums they helped dramatically it's not like the phone mount the tires that turn into Pizza Cutters at high top speeds LOL.



Foam mounted tires not phone LOL dang autocorrect.
While they do make belted tires, they aren’t steel belted. They are usually nylon belts.
 
While they do make belted tires, they aren’t steel belted. They are usually nylon belts.
While they do make belted tires, they aren’t steel belted. They are usually nylon belts.
I thought so. Be pretty hard to steel belt a tire so small in diameter. I bought GRP GTX01-s2.
Anyone running under 140mph should be using GRP Tires period
I'm glad that I picked the right brand. I can't envision going 140mph. That's up to you and your "Unlimited" project.
 
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In November, after watching a youtube video by David Windestal and his rocket boosted 1/10th scale car, I decided that I had to try it. However, I wanted to bigger, better and FASTER.
I purchased a Kraton 6s BLX and a Kraton 8s BLX. I was going to start with the 6s. That's when I came across " ARRMA FORUM". I started a thread= "ROCKET BOOST KRATON 6S AND 8S", (Check it out if you have a few minutes). Being a novice to the' new generation', large scale cars, I have a lot to learn. I was given a lot of valuable information from some very knowledgeable people.
Looking around on the internet, I realized that the Kraton was the wrong platform for this project. After reading about the "Typhon 6s BLX v4, and contacting 'Horizon Hobby', I realized that this was the beast that I needed to tame. I ordered one just before Christmas, along with an extra body, (to modify for aerodynamics and rocket motor placement), and a 'SKYRC speedometer.
The purpose of this thread is to find out what I need to do and buy, to make the Typhon go as fast as it can on a straight, asphalt surface, on its own power. when that is achieved, the rocket will be activated for max. speed. that's all this car will be used for, (for now). The Kraton 6s and its big brother can play in the dirt and gravel. If you check-out the above mentioned thread, you can see what has already been suggested. Same plan. Different car.

I am also wondering if there are solid rubber, racing tires with wheels that will be a match for the Typhon, without wheel adapters. Also, proper shock and differential fluids, and an easy to understand transmitter/receiver with a long distance range.

I have 6s 22.2V 5000 mAh batteries. Do batteries have anything to do with the speed of a car that's running fast short runs? If so, any suggestions?
I just downloaded the (english) ) version manual for my Futaba 3PV-R314SB Transmitter/Receiver and looked it over. Wow. And I thought that building this "rocket car" was going to be complicated part
XLX is regarded as the best speed running ESC. I believe you will find most speed runners using a TP Power motor, the biggest you can fit. 4070 is a common choice. I’m sure someone here will chime in.
Hey jondilly1974,

Will the "Castle XL-X ESC fit in easily, where the stock ESC was on my Typhon 6s BLX V4, or will I have to make adjustments? I have to consider that when I order a new GT body.

Also, I understand that it doesn't come with an ON/OFF/BINDING switch. How would I get around that?

Thank's
 
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I just downloaded the (english) ) version manual for my Futaba 3PV-R314SB Transmitter/Receiver and looked it over. Wow. And I thought that building this "rocket car" was going to be complicated part

Hey jondilly1974,

Will the "Castle XL-X ESC fit in easily, where the stock ESC was on my Typhon 6s BLX V4, or will I have to make adjustments? I have to consider that when I order a new GT body.

Also, I understand that it doesn't come with an ON/OFF/BINDING switch. How would I get around that?

Thank's
The XLX will not fit in the stock position. You will need to fabricate a place for it. There are many different ways people do it. Depends on which body you go with. I am running the MM2 Retro in mine in the stock location. It’s a little smaller and less powerful, but mine isn’t going to set any records either. It’s is a poor mans version of a street basher. It could hit 100mph, but that would be plenty for me.

As far as the switch, with Castle ESCs, you have a few options. They make a USB interface that you can plug into a PC to program it. I have that and it works well. The software is not the best, but it works.

The second option is a Bluetooth module that plugs inside the rig and use a smartphone to configure it. This app is somewhat limited compared to the PC app as far as settings, but works great for quick adjustments on the fly.
 
Will the "Castle XL-X ESC fit in easily, where the stock ESC was on my Typhon 6s BLX V4, or will I have to make adjustments? I have to consider that when I order a new GT body.

Also, I understand that it doesn't come with an ON/OFF/BINDING switch. How would I get around that?

Thank's
When ordering a GT body the biggest concern is having enough room for the shock towers. Some of the 1/8 bodies are made for belt drive 1/8 that have a much smaller profile. The Jaguar body is always a good option. I would probably go with a 2mm or 3mm body.

I never had an on/off switch on the XLX. Plug in the battery(s) and its on. It does a series of beeps to count the cells and its good to go.

As mentioned before running the side battery trays allows you to run 2 packs. The other advantage is that it opens up the whole left side of the chassis for mounting the XLX esc. You may need to come up with some methods for mounting but should be plenty of room there.

Example with a traditional 1/8 scale esc and side battery trays:
GT2Capture.JPG


Example with XLX esc (this guy mounted the XO-1 bumper and diffuser)

GTCapture.JPG
 
I'll email tppowerusa.com and give them the specifications that you suggested. Too bad they don't have a contact phone number.

I think I may have posted this before, but worth saying again for any other viewers. The BLX 2050kv motor is quite capable. You may want to see how far you can go on the stock motor. If you will have it setup with an XLX esc and a GT body then I don't see why that motor wouldn't get you well over 100mph. Best thing is that they are dirt cheap on eBay if you were to burn one up.

(not my video) Kenny has taken the BLX 2050kv motor to some impressive speeds (143 mph in this video):
 
The XLX will not fit in the stock position. You will need to fabricate a place for it. There are many different ways people do it. Depends on which body you go with. I am running the MM2 Retro in mine in the stock location. It’s a little smaller and less powerful, but mine isn’t going to set any records either. It’s is a poor mans version of a street basher. It could hit 100mph, but that would be plenty for me.

As far as the switch, with Castle ESCs, you have a few options. They make a USB interface that you can plug into a PC to program it. I have that and it works well. The software is not the best, but it works.

The second option is a Bluetooth module that plugs inside the rig and use a smartphone to configure it. This app is somewhat limited compared to the PC app as far as settings, but works great for quick adjustments on the fly.
Hey jondilly1

I called Castle, and they are out of the Castle MM2 Retro ESC. The tech that I talked with, suggested the "Mamba Monster X". and he thinks that it will fit in the car without any modifications, but not sure. Have you ever tried a Mamba Monster X?

Many thank's.
 
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