TYPHON 6S BLX V4 MAXIMUM SPEED UPGRADE HELP

[LibertyMKiii]

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I told him that I wanted to run (2) 6S 5,000mAh 60C 22.2V batteries in parallel, (I just thought that parallel meant one battery in each tray). He said that would burn-up the XL-X , in parallel or series. To get the fastest speed, without frying the ESC, I should run my 4S 5000mAh 50C 14.4V batteries in "series".

That support rep does not know anything evidently.
You pick your voltage based on the motor you want to run and what the ESC is capable of. Most 8s motors will have the KV value in the 1400 to 1700kv range.

The XLX can run any of those voltages so if packs are in series or parallel the ESC will not know. The XLX will actually see less stress running 6s versus higher voltage on 8s.

When talking parallel vs series.....The difference is the capacity of the batteries being visible to the ESC as 5000 mAh or a 10000 mAh battery providing power. The more capacity the better the batteries can deliver the power needs of the motor and ESC. As mentioned the only draw back would be some extra weight from the second battery pack, but the XLX is used all the time on 1/5 scale 30 lbs RC trucks so there won't be an issue there.

Visual image helps sometimes:

 

[arelee]

That support rep does not know anything evidently.
You pick your voltage based on the motor you want to run and what the ESC is capable of. Most 8s motors will have the KV value in the 1400 to 1700kv range.

The XLX can run any of those voltages so if packs are in series or parallel the ESC will not know. The XLX will actually see less stress running 6s versus higher voltage on 8s.

When talking parallel vs series.....The difference is the capacity of the batteries being visible to the ESC as 5000 mAh or a 10000 mAh battery providing power. The more capacity the better the batteries can deliver the power needs of the motor and ESC. As mentioned the only draw back would be some extra weight from the second battery pack, but the XLX is used all the time on 1/5 scale 30 lbs RC trucks so there won't be an issue there.

Visual image helps sometimes:
View attachment 60908

Thank's Liberty.

Please let me know If I am understanding this correctly. Running my (2), 6S 5,000mAh 60C 22.2V batteries in parallel, rather than series, will give me the most power, and will not fry the XL-X ESC, (once it has been tuned for a parallel configuration). If this is correct, then the tech. I talked to at Castle was WAY off-base!

Now all I need is to find-out what will be the best steering servo mount to buy.

Time to go shopping at Castle for 8mm CC bullet connectors for the motor, 6.5mm polarized connectors and 8 AWG wire.

You're a life saver Liberty.

 

[jondilly1974]

The Castle tech was for sure full of sh!t

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Thank's Liberty.

Please let me know If I am understanding this correctly. Running my (2), 6S 5,000mAh 60C 22.2V batteries in parallel, rather than series, will give me the most power, and will not fry the XL-X ESC, (once it has been tuned for a parallel configuration). If this is correct, then the tech. I talked to at Castle was WAY off-base!

Now all I need is to find-out what will be the best steering servo mount to buy.

Time to go shopping at Castle for 8mm CC bullet connectors for the motor, 6.5mm polarized connectors and 8 AWG wire.

You're a life saver Liberty.

Yeah I could easily show you 20+ videos of speed run guys using the XLX with 2 6s packs in parallel.
That Castle rep might be new.

 

[jondilly1974]

Honestly you could run an unlimited amount of packs in parallel without any damage (ignoring weight factor).

 

[LibertyMKiii]

This is an example from "The General" that might just blow your mind lol. It is a series + parallel connection

He has on each side 2x of 3s LiPos in Series to make 6s. Each side is in parallel to keep it 6s but increase the capacity/amperage output.

(3s + 3s = 6s) parallel connection (3s + 3s = 6s)
Using the XLX and TP Power motor.

 

[arelee]

Impressive!

So he's running (2) 3S batteries in "series" on each side=6S. Then connecting the two sides in "Parallel"= 6S. So in my case, if I'm running (1) 6S battery on each side, connected in "parallel", the ESC reads it as 6S total?

Honestly you could run an unlimited amount of packs in parallel without any damage (ignoring weight factor).

Hey jon,

That's good to know. I'll go with (2) 6S in parallel.

Thank's

Yeah I could easily show you 20+ videos of speed run guys using the XLX with 2 6s packs in parallel.
That Castle rep might be new.

If the tech. at Castle is new, he should check-out this forum. He is racing his car(s) with (2) 4S batteries in "series.

The Castle tech was for sure full of sh!t

Like Liberty said, he must be new. Or maybe he was just having a bad day.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

So he's running (2) 3S batteries in "series" on each side=6S. Then connecting the two sides in "Parallel"= 6S. So in my case, if I'm running (1) 6S battery on each side, connected in "parallel", the ESC reads it as 6S total?

Yes sir, any time there is a parallel connection you will keep the same voltage but gain capacity.

 

[arelee]

Yes sir, any time there is a parallel connection you will keep the same voltage but gain capacity.

I just wanted to make sure that I get it right. Now I need to decide weather I change the wiring and connectors in all of my cars and chargers to those that I purchased from "Castle", or simply purchase higher mAh batteries for the Typhon, (and eventually the Limitless), and use the 8AWG wire and "Castle" connectors on them. My Kraton 6S and 8S don't need to go 100 plus mph. That just seems wrong. I think the Kratons would agree.

I got the "6S Ripper Killer" from Phil yesterday. Do you have a photo regarding it's installation set-up?

The EM Performance also arrived. Nice!. Much better than the generic, aluminium ones. I'll install them today, after I split some firewood.

Thank's again!

 

[arelee]

I just wanted to make sure that I get it right. Now I need to decide weather I change the wiring and connectors in all of my cars and chargers to those that I purchased from "Castle", or simply purchase higher mAh batteries for the Typhon, (and eventually the Limitless), and use the 8AWG wire and "Castle" connectors on them. My Kraton 6S and 8S don't need to go 100 plus mph. That just seems wrong. I think the Kratons would agree.

I got the "6S Ripper Killer" from Phil yesterday. Do you have a photo regarding it's installation set-up?

The EM Performance also arrived. Nice!. Much better than the generic, aluminium ones. I'll install them today, after I split some firewood.

Thank's again!

Liberty,

I just watched a couple of youtube videos on installing the cap. packs. So easy. If I knew how to add the videos to this thread I would have.

One of them also explained how twisting the wires from the esc to the motor, helps to reduce any issues, (aside from overheating).

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Liberty,

I just watched a couple of youtube videos on installing the cap. packs. So easy. If I knew how to add the videos to this thread I would have.

One of them also explained how twisting the wires from the esc to the motor, helps to reduce any issues, (aside from overheating).

Yes quite simple. The key is to keep the connection close to the ESC and after finding where things will mount keep wires as short as possible. You may want to consider installing it with battery connectors so that it can be removed during repairs.

Keep in mind crashes happen so mount things in a sturdy way. 100mph crashes are violent!

 

[arelee]

Yes quite simple. The key is to keep the connection close to the ESC and after finding where things will mount keep wires as short as possible. You may want to consider installing it with battery connectors so that it can be removed during repairs.

Keep in mind crashes happen so mount things in a sturdy way. 100mph crashes are violent!
[/QUOTE

 

[arelee]

Yes quite simple. The key is to keep the connection close to the ESC and after finding where things will mount keep wires as short as possible. You may want to consider installing it with battery connectors so that it can be removed during repairs.

Keep in mind crashes happen so mount things in a sturdy way. 100mph crashes are violent!

Here are a couple of photos I took a few minutes ago. Nothing is screwed, glued or buttoned down yet. Regarding the electronics, if anything is placed where it may interfere with any other component, please let me know. No components or wires will be touching the drive shafts.

To splice the cap pack wires as close to the front of the ESC as I can, I will need to extend the cap pack wires, by splicing on additional wire. If that is a problem, please let me know.

I had planned on using velcro to secure all components to the chassis. However, from what you stated above, that plan is out. Everything will be secured with screws.

Bye the way, rather than filling-up your email with questions, how do I simply "post" questions on the thread? Haven't figured that out.

Thank's

.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

To splice the cap pack wires as close to the front of the ESC as I can, I will need to extend the cap pack wires, by splicing on additional wire. If that is a problem, please let me know.

Ideally you want the wires short although with a long cap pack it can get tricky on where to mount it.
The ESC should be bolted in but, you might be able to get creative ziptie-ing the cap pack in somewhere near the battery or possibly above the center diff?

Bye the way, rather than filling-up your email with questions, how do I simply "post" questions on the thread? Haven't figured that out.

This is your public thread. Feel free to ask as many questions as you want.
You may also shoot me a Personal Message if you have a question that you do not want to be public.

The build is looking great so far! I may have to get some of those battery trays for my Typhon also.

 

[arelee]

Ideally you want the wires short although with a long cap pack it can get tricky on where to mount it.
The ESC should be bolted in but, you might be able to get creative ziptie-ing the cap pack in somewhere near the battery or possibly above the center diff?



This is your public thread. Feel free to ask as many questions as you want.
You may also shoot me a Personal Message if you have a question that you do not want to be public.

The build is looking great so far! I may have to get some of those battery trays for my Typhon also.

Thank's my friend!

So, even though the cap. pack wires will be soldered to the closest point at the front of the ESC, the length of the cap. pack wires should be as short as possible?

Ya know, It dawned on me. This thread is laying-out pretty much everything any other newbie like myself needs to know, so they can make their new Typhon 6S run as fast as it can. That's pretty cool.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Thank's my friend!

So, even though the cap. pack wires will be soldered to the closest point at the front of the ESC, the length of the cap. pack wires should be as short as possible?

Ya know, It dawned on me. This thread is laying-out pretty much everything any other newbie like myself needs to know, so they can make their new Typhon 6S run as fast as it can. That's pretty cool.

Agreed this is a great how to thread for anyone new to Arrma and SpeedRuns.

In general you want to keep wires short when you can, but the cap pack will not be delivering high discharge amperage so this is less critical than other things like motor wires and battery wires. As you have seen in some of the videos people have wires going everywhere lol.

By the look of things it appears you could have the wire end of the cap pack facing the ESC and connect right into those batter leads? That would be ideal in my opinion.

 

[arelee]

Agreed this is a great how to thread for anyone new to Arrma and SpeedRuns.

In general you want to keep wires short when you can, but the cap pack will not be delivering high discharge amperage so this is less critical than other things like motor wires and battery wires. As you have seen in some of the videos people have wires going everywhere lol.

By the look of things it appears you could have the wire end of the cap pack facing the ESC and connect right into those batter leads? That would be ideal in my opinion.

I have an idea that seems like it would work well.

As you suggested, turn the cap. pack around so the wires are facing the front end of the ESC. But instead of splicing into the wires, simply cut-back enough of the heat-shrink tubing on the front of the ESC, to expose where the positive and negative wires are connected to the ESC, and solder the cap. pack wires directly to the ESC at that point. Can't get any closer than that. To position the cap. pack so the wires are facing up, (parallel to the top of the ESC), it will need to be turned up-side-down.

Sound like a plan?

 

[arelee]

In November, after watching a youtube video by David Windestal and his rocket boosted 1/10th scale car, I decided that I had to try it. However, I wanted to bigger, better and FASTER.
I purchased a Kraton 6s BLX and a Kraton 8s BLX. I was going to start with the 6s. That's when I came across " ARRMA FORUM". I started a thread= "ROCKET BOOST KRATON 6S AND 8S", (Check it out if you have a few minutes). Being a novice to the' new generation', large scale cars, I have a lot to learn. I was given a lot of valuable information from some very knowledgeable people.
Looking around on the internet, I realized that the Kraton was the wrong platform for this project. After reading about the "Typhon 6s BLX v4, and contacting 'Horizon Hobby', I realized that this was the beast that I needed to tame. I ordered one just before Christmas, along with an extra body, (to modify for aerodynamics and rocket motor placement), and a 'SKYRC speedometer.
The purpose of this thread is to find out what I need to do and buy, to make the Typhon go as fast as it can on a straight, asphalt surface, on its own power. when that is achieved, the rocket will be activated for max. speed. that's all this car will be used for, (for now). The Kraton 6s and its big brother can play in the dirt and gravel. If you check-out the above mentioned thread, you can see what has already been suggested. Same plan. Different car.

I am also wondering if there are solid rubber, racing tires with wheels that will be a match for the Typhon, without wheel adapters. Also, proper shock and differential fluids, and an easy to understand transmitter/receiver with a long distance range.

I have 6s 22.2V 5000 mAh batteries. Do batteries have anything to do with the speed of a car that's running fast short runs? If so, any suggestions?

If you were running a Mamba XL-X Extreme ESC, TP4060 2450KV motor and (2) 6S batteries in parallel, what batteries would you choose for FAST runs?

 

[jondilly1974]

If you were running a Mamba XL-X Extreme ESC, TP4060 2450KV motor and (2) 6S batteries in parallel, what batteries would you choose for FAST runs?

Turnigy Panther Graphene

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I have an idea that seems like it would work well.

As you suggested, turn the cap. pack around so the wires are facing the front end of the ESC. But instead of splicing into the wires, simply cut-back enough of the heat-shrink tubing on the front of the ESC, to expose where the positive and negative wires are connected to the ESC, and solder the cap. pack wires directly to the ESC at that point. Can't get any closer than that. To position the cap. pack so the wires are facing up, (parallel to the top of the ESC), it will need to be turned up-side-down.

Sound like a plan?

Sounds perfect to me.

Turnigy Panther Graphene

Agreed!
Not cheap or light weight but they output more than any other LiPo on the market. I run the Panther 5000 mAh.