TYPHON 6S BLX V4 MAXIMUM SPEED UPGRADE HELP

[LibertyMKiii]

hey jon.

You said that you wanted an 0100-F40 body (2mm). I just finished trimming and prepping mine for paint. When I got to the spoiler, I noticed something: First of all, it is not 2mm thick, like the body. It's maybe 1mm thick. Also, if you plan on using the body on speed runs, you might want to remove the spoiler. It's design looks aerodynamic, but it is actually hollow, no bottom side, (The photos on the Delta Plastik website don't really show this). I believe that it will trap air inside and slow the car down, or maybe even pip it off of the body.

I'm still glad that I bought one. It really is a cool body, spoiler and all. I'm just using mine for a fun project, and a great way to present the car when I sell it.

I can attest that none of Delta Plastics "wings" are aerodynamic airfoils. They are purely cosmetic pieces that will generate some significant drag slowing the car down.

 

[jondilly1974]

hey jon.

You said that you wanted an 0100-F40 body (2mm). I just finished trimming and prepping mine for paint. When I got to the spoiler, I noticed something: First of all, it is not 2mm thick, like the body. It's maybe 1mm thick. Also, if you plan on using the body on speed runs, you might want to remove the spoiler. It's design looks aerodynamic, but it is actually hollow, no bottom side, (The photos on the Delta Plastik website don't really show this). I believe that it will trap air inside and slow the car down, or maybe even pip it off of the body.

I'm still glad that I bought one. It really is a cool body, spoiler and all. I'm just using mine for a fun project, and a great way to present the car when I sell it.

Thanks for the tip! I would probably replace that wing with something function like Liberty said. I think the 2mm represents the thickness of the flat sheet before it gets molded. Mine is called a 4mm but is really about half that in the spots I can measure. Believe me, even at a real 2mm, you don’t want something that thick that needs a lot of trimming ??? I have blisters on my hand to prove it. You will want a set of bolt cutters to do the bulk of the cutting ??

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I like to study the details of proven results. Looking at 2 of the fastest 1/8 RC runs using a GT body you will see that they use a dragster style "wing".

This is a Slash 4x4 that went 168mph using clear plastic to extend the body beyond the rear tires and keeping the airflow smooth.
This one belongs to @phildogg

This is another Slash 4x4 that went 170mph with a similar design using a piece of carbon fiber as well as implementing rear wheel opening covers.

I am guessing they got the idea from 1:1 dragsters sheet metal wings.

 

[jondilly1974]

Yep as a fan of the show Street Outlaws, I see this style of wing on all of the cars.

 

[arelee]

Thanks for the tip! I would probably replace that wing with something function like Liberty said. I think the 2mm represents the thickness of the flat sheet before it gets molded. Mine is called a 4mm but is really about half that in the spots I can measure. Believe me, even at a real 2mm, you don’t want something that thick that needs a lot of trimming ??? I have blisters on my hand to prove it. You will want a set of bolt cutters to do the bulk of the cutting ??

In my last post, I said "pip" it off of the body. I meant to say "rip" it off the body. It's been edited.

Trimming the body was pretty simple. I think you're correct, the body is not 2mm throughout. the farther you get to the to the bottom, the thinner it gets. Still pretty thick. Using a pair of curved, lexan scissors, a dremel tool with various grades of sanding bits, and 320 sandpaper to finish, made trimming surprisingly simple. Dusty but easy. No blisters on my hands.

 

[arelee]

I like to study the details of proven results. Looking at 2 of the fastest 1/8 RC runs using a GT body you will see that they use a dragster style "wing".

This is a Slash 4x4 that went 168mph using clear plastic to extend the body beyond the rear tires and keeping the airflow smooth.
This one belongs to @phildogg
View attachment 64873

This is another Slash 4x4 that went 170mph with a similar design using a piece of carbon fiber as well as implementing rear wheel opening covers.
View attachment 64874

I am guessing they got the idea from 1:1 dragsters sheet metal wings.
View attachment 64875

I like to study the details of proven results. Looking at 2 of the fastest 1/8 RC runs using a GT body you will see that they use a dragster style "wing".

This is a Slash 4x4 that went 168mph using clear plastic to extend the body beyond the rear tires and keeping the airflow smooth.
This one belongs to @phildogg
View attachment 64873

This is another Slash 4x4 that went 170mph with a similar design using a piece of carbon fiber as well as implementing rear wheel opening covers.
View attachment 64874

I am guessing they got the idea from 1:1 dragsters sheet metal wings.
View attachment 64875

Thank's for the photos. The dragster "wing" makes sense for the overall aerodynamics. What is the purpose of the shark fins in the sides of the rear end? Do they help prevent the car from "fishtailing"?

The weather here in Central Virginia has been wet for the last few days. It's supposed to stay that way for a few more. I'm glad, because I am very nervous about running the car, even with 4S batteries. I know that it runs on my workbench, but once the rubber hits the road, anything could happen. The smallest pinion gear I can use is 27 tooth. Nothing smaller will marry to the spool gear. I'm stuck with fast starts from the beginning. Aside from messing around with the Kratons on my property, this is the first time I have run an RC car in 38 years. And as you know, this is no ordinary off of the shelf car. I'll just have to wait and see. Nervous? Yes. But at the same time, very excited.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Thank's for the photos. The dragster "wing" makes sense for the overall aerodynamics. What is the purpose of the shark fins in the sides of the rear end? Do they help prevent the car from "fishtailing"?

The weather here in Central Virginia has been wet for the last few days. It's supposed to stay that way for a few more. I'm glad, because I am very nervous about running the car, even with 4S batteries. I know that it runs on my workbench, but once the rubber hits the road, anything could happen. The smallest pinion gear I can use is 27 tooth. Nothing smaller will marry to the spool gear. I'm stuck with fast starts from the beginning. Aside from messing around with the Kratons on my property, this is the first time I have run an RC car in 38 years. And as you know, this is no ordinary off of the shelf car. I'll just have to wait and see. Nervous? Yes. But at the same time, very excited.

The tail fin helps much like a airplanes vertical stabilizer or a rudder on a boat. Helps keep it tracking straight.

I can relate to that nervousness. I cant even get myself to drive the carbon fiber car due to the costs/time invested.
Just like driving a 1:1 car it only goes as fast as you squeeze the throttle....

 

[jondilly1974]

I'm wondering if the design of the NP 1:1 car rear wings are due to the chutes out back? Maybe this wouldn't apply directly for our RC speeders?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I'm wondering if the design of the NP 1:1 car rear wings are due to the chutes out back? Maybe this wouldn't apply directly for our RC speeders?

I suspect you could run with and without that "wing" and see little difference in mph if anything at all. The only real benefit is extending the air separation point and where the rear suction and turbulent air flow occurs. Example CFD from one of my streamliner designs:

 

[jondilly1974]

Dang, you are going to make me upgrade my 3DP. My bed size is too small to make this out of a single print ??

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Dang, you are going to make me upgrade my 3DP. My bed size is too small to make this out of a single print ??

I have been shopping for 3D printers lately. Can't wait to get one!

 

[jondilly1974]

I have been shopping for 3D printers lately. Can't wait to get one!

I had to look last night and I think the CR-10 S5 would be what I want today, but I just don't have the space for something that large.

 

[arelee]

The tail fin helps much like a airplanes vertical stabilizer or a rudder on a boat. Helps keep it tracking straight.

I can relate to that nervousness. I cant even get myself to drive the carbon fiber car due to the costs/time invested.
Just like driving a 1:1 car it only goes as fast as you squeeze the throttle....

That's what I thought. The tail fins help reduce "fishtailing".

I was actually thinking about how you must be feeling about taking the UNLIMITED out for its maiden voyage. We've got to pull the trigger sometime. One of my main concerns is the possibility of veering-off of the road.

Years ago, we raced our cars at the old, out-of commission Charlottesville airport. Perfect place. Too far from where I now live= Buckingham County. I thought, maybe there might be a private air strip out here. There is! Wheatland Airport. It's a private airport, 15 miles from my home. When the weather dries-up, I'm going to check it out.

Bye the way, I haven't been able to figure-out what the "speed" advantage is for putting 1,000,000 CST fluid in the front and rear diffs.

 

[jondilly1974]

That's what I thought. The tail fins help reduce "fishtailing".

I was actually thinking about how you must be feeling about taking the UNLIMITED out for its maiden voyage. We've got to pull the trigger sometime. One of my main concerns is the possibility of veering-off of the road.

Years ago, we raced our cars at the old, out-of commission Charlottesville airport. Perfect place. Too far from where I now live= Buckingham County. I thought, maybe there might be a private air strip out here. There is! Wheatland Airport. It's a private airport, 15 miles from my home. When the weather dries-up, I'm going to check it out.

Bye the way, I haven't been able to figure-out what the "speed" advantage is for putting 1,000,000 CST fluid in the front and rear diffs.

No speed advantage. The difference is that both sides will get equal power. You won’t have one wheel diffing out and bleeding out power.

 

[arelee]

No speed advantage. The difference is that both sides will get equal power. You won’t have one wheel diffing out and bleeding out power.

Thank's jon. Makes sense now.

 

[arelee]

Thanks for the tip! I would probably replace that wing with something function like Liberty said. I think the 2mm represents the thickness of the flat sheet before it gets molded. Mine is called a 4mm but is really about half that in the spots I can measure. Believe me, even at a real 2mm, you don’t want something that thick that needs a lot of trimming ??? I have blisters on my hand to prove it. You will want a set of bolt cutters to do the bulk of the cutting ??

Hey jon.

If you haven't started painting your Delta Plastik, 0100-F40 body yet, I have a suggestion.

I hand-painted the inside of mine, with (3) coats of liquid mask. When dry, I marked around all of the "wind scoops" and engine cover with a fine point sharpie from the inside, then traced the outlines with Tamiya masking tape for curves. Then I cut around the taped areas and removed the mask, from the areas to be painted black. After spraying the exposed areas, I removed all of the remaining mask, and turned the body over to check-out my work.

Unbelievable!! The engine cover looked OK, but regarding the wind scoops, what looked correct from the inside, was completely off center from the outside. I spent the next 4-5 hours, scraping the the paint off. You can imaging what that did to the lexan. I may have destroyed the body. I'll know later today.

Bottom line, paint the wind scoops from the outside, after laying-down the primary color on the inside.

Actually, I assume you already know all of this. I just thought thought it might be worth posting for anyone reading this thread, that has never painted a clear lexan body.

 

[jondilly1974]

Hey jon.

If you haven't started painting your Delta Plastik, 0100-F40 body yet, I have a suggestion.

I hand-painted the inside of mine, with (3) coats of liquid mask. When dry, I marked around all of the "wind scoops" and engine cover with a fine point sharpie from the inside, then traced the outlines with Tamiya masking tape for curves. Then I cut around the taped areas and removed the mask, from the areas to be painted black. After spraying the exposed areas, I removed all of the remaining mask, and turned the body over to check-out my work.

Unbelievable!! The engine cover looked OK, but regarding the wind scoops, what looked correct from the inside, was completely off center from the outside. I spent the next 4-5 hours, scraping the the paint off. You can imaging what that did to the lexan. I may have destroyed the body. I'll know later today.

Bottom line, paint the wind scoops from the outside, after laying-down the primary on the inside.

Actually, I assume you already know all of this. I just thought thought it might be worth posting for anyone reading this thread, that has never painted clear lexan before.

When I get to painting mine, it will the second one I’ve painted. While I do have some areas that will be black, mine doesn’t need crisp lines. I’m going for a grungy oversprayed look. So any mistake will blend right in. ??

 

[arelee]

When I get to painting mine, it will the second one I’ve painted. While I do have some areas that will be black, mine doesn’t need crisp lines. I’m going for a grungy oversprayed look. So any mistake will blend right in. ??

Sounds like a cool idea. Looking forward to seeing it.

It dawned on me that rather than scratching the heck out of the body, and maybe ruining it, all I needed to do was use a lexan paint remover like RC Nitro fuel (20%) or Testors "ELO", Easy Lift Off Paint and Decal Remover #F542143.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

One of the brake fluids works well also for removing paint. I don't recall if it was dot3 or dot4 but I'm sure a Google search will tell you.

 

[arelee]

One of the brake fluids works well also for removing paint. I don't recall if it was dot3 or dot4 but I'm sure a Google search will tell you.

Hey there Liberty,

DOT 3 is what some people use. Others state that it also removes the plasticizers from the lexan, leaving it brittle. Anything is better than scratching-up the lexan.