Typhon Typhon 6s: My build so far

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sumguy75

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Arrma RC's
  1. Notorious
  2. Talion
  3. Typhon 6s
Starting a build thread for 2 reasons: to cross of the last thing on my account progress list :LOL: and to keep up with what I've done and am planning to do. Its pretty basic right now with just a few upgrades:

T-bone racing bumpers front and rear
T-bone racing rear mud/stone guards
Basherqueen carbon fiber shock towers and top plate
M2C shock standoffs
40mm Rocket fan on esc and motor (need a second one for the motor)

I have 3 different sets of buggy tires: JConcepts Magmas, Pro-Line Badlands, stock Katars. The Magmas are my favorite with the badlands a very close second. The Katars do great on grass but I don't care for them on dirt.

Diff fluids are 20k/100k/10k. Had been running 30k in the center until yesterday, but like the way it handles WAY better with the 100k now. Might go up to 30k up front next now that I know I like the 100k center. Stock esc/motor with 18t pinion. Running too hot now that weather is warmer, hit thermal cutoff on 6s yesterday in less than 10 minutes and it was only in the low 80s. Hoping a second fan takes care of that or I will gear back down to the 16

When I got this I was expecting to truggify it, but honestly I don't want to waste the money on that because I love the way it handles as it is. I mostly run on hard packed dirt with a little grass, little to no jumping. The way this thing powerslides through turns and launches out of them so insanely fast keeps a big fat smile on my face! :D No real changes to the overall setup are in store, just planning to upgrade to M2C or Basherqueen parts on things that break.

Would like to add its hard to give this thing a fair durability rating because I just don't wreck it much. I've run through a 4s and 6s pack multiple times without turning it over or running into anything. I occasionally cartwheel it for 50ft or some end over end flips, but not often. Only breakages after more than 50 packs has been one wing, the stock rear shock tower, and 1 rod end, thats it. Really happy with it.

Will add updates as I upgrade or change things!

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Starting a build thread for 2 reasons: to cross of the last thing on my account progress list :LOL: and to keep up with what I've done and am planning to do.
Also get your build thread badge too.
 
How would you describe the change from 30K to 100K in the center diff? I’m thinking of doing the same.

Also how do you like those tires? Can they handle 6S?
 
Biggest difference I noticed is it will start pulling itself forward out of a hard power slide easier than before and less front tire ballooning. Also felt it accelerated more quickly, not 100% sure, but definitely felt like it.

Each time I bash with it I do a 4s run with a 6200mah battery and a 6s run with two 5200 mah 3s batteries. The Magmas tires have handled 6s as well as the Badlands so far, both have to be glued down some after a couple of outings. I have run the Magmas several more times than the Badlands and they are showing more signs of stress on the sidewalls near the glue bead because of that. Not sure how long they will last because I hear a lot of warnings that 6s on the Typhon will destroy tires pretty quick. Have at least 15 bashes with them so far though and I spend a fair amount of time at full throttle so I'm happy they are still together. Replacement tires and foams are $24, as long as the wheels hold up I'll just glue a new set on when these eventually give out.
 
Time for some new upgrades this weekend. Typhon has been sitting for 2 weeks with a bent chassis, seemed like too much work take it apart to straighten it if its just going to bend again at some point, lol. Now its time to replace the chassis and take care of a couple of other things.

Parts on the way that should arrive today and tomorrow:

M2C Racing chassis (4mm)
Aluminum servo mount
Powerhobby heatsink with dual fans

MIP hex drivers were delivered yesterday, should make the chassis swap easier.
 
Time for some new upgrades this weekend. Typhon has been sitting for 2 weeks with a bent chassis, seemed like too much work take it apart to straighten it if its just going to bend again at some point, lol. Now its time to replace the chassis and take care of a couple of other things.

Parts on the way that should arrive today and tomorrow:

M2C Racing chassis (4mm)
Aluminum servo mount
Powerhobby heatsink with dual fans

MIP hex drivers were delivered yesterday, should make the chassis swap easier.
Those MIPs will definitely make it easier. As will a power driver or ratcheting driver, if you don't already have one
 
Got all the upgrades/changes done yesterday. Only downside is I found the front diff housing is broken where the lower right shock tower screw threads in, the threaded part is completely broken off and the screw on the left side was bent pretty good. Have another one on the way that should be here tomorrow so I can get this thing out for some fun.

Here is a rundown of what's new:

M2C Racing chassis
Raiden Racing aluminum servo mount
Hot Racing aluminum steering link
30kg servo upgrade
Powerhobby heatsink with dual fans
All 3 diffs cleaned, topped off running 30k/100k/10k, new bearings
All wiring cleaned up

Before and after pics attached.
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Got all the upgrades/changes done yesterday. Only downside is I found the front diff housing is broken where the lower right shock tower screw threads in, the threaded part is completely broken off and the screw on the left side was bent pretty good. Have another one on the way that should be here tomorrow so I can get this thing out for some fun.

Here is a rundown of what's new:

M2C Racing chassis
Raiden Racing aluminum servo mount
Hot Racing aluminum steering link
30kg servo upgrade
Powerhobby heatsink with dual fans
All 3 diffs cleaned, topped off running 30k/100k/10k, new bearings
All wiring cleaned up

Before and after pics attached.View attachment 234773View attachment 234774
Looking clean man!
Not sure if it's the angle or my eyes, but to me it looks like your right upper pillow ball retainer is kinda sticking out a little funny. Mine seem to always sit pretty flush. Have you noticed it being too loose? Sorry for nitpicking
 
Looking clean man!
Not sure if it's the angle or my eyes, but to me it looks like your right upper pillow ball retainer is kinda sticking out a little funny. Mine seem to always sit pretty flush. Have you noticed it being too loose? Sorry for nitpicking
Thanks!
Yeah thanks for reminding me on the retainer. They usually do sit flatter and I noticed it while working on everything and meant to get it straightened out. Will get that done when I replace the diff housing.

Are the diff housings usually pretty durable? Or do I need to plan on getting the Hot Racing aluminum version?
 
Thanks!
Yeah thanks for reminding me on the retainer. They usually do sit flatter and I noticed it while working on everything and meant to get it straightened out. Will get that done when I replace the diff housing.

Are the diff housings usually pretty durable? Or do I need to plan on getting the Hot Racing aluminum version?
From my experience so far they've been pretty durable. I do have the aluminum hot racing gear boxes on my jumping typhon tho. I've only broken one of the stockers & that was from a 65 mph to zero wreck- totally user error. If you don't want to go all out for the complete gearbox set you can just get the outside covers and the sway bar covers til you wanna pony up the $$ That's what I'm doing w/ my speed runner, just going piece by piece. Another thing that I found that REALLY helps w/ not bending hingepins & breaking those corner screw areas is some sort of aluminum hingepin retainers. M2c makes really nice quality pieces, but as you probably know they're pricey. These are gpms iirc & the colors don't match but I think they've helped a lot

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Got a few things done, liking the progress. Changes/upgrades just completed:

- 3d RC wing mounts and new wing
- Talion EXB front bumper
- Hot Racing sway bar covers
- 2 new aluminum 30mm fans for the Powerhobby heatsink
- Set of Roapex Rythm buggy tires


Thinking about removing the red anodizing from the shocks, chassis braces and the steering plate this week. Any tips on polishing them? I have some Eagle One metal polish and a Dremel, will that get the job done on the shocks and chassis braces?

Excited to try the tires, probably be the weekend. Got them after seeing Jaytee RC running them on his Typhon 6s and liking their handling/durability. Similar to the Lock Ups except knobbys are squared off instead of having different angles and shapes to them. They cost $30 a pair so if they hold up that will be a nice addition to my slowly growing tire collection. 😎

Edit: Those lug nuts are new ones I got for my Stampede, lol. I like them enough I ordered a set just like them for the Typhon but all silver for the color

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Removed anodized red from shocks, chassis braces & toe plates. Used purple degreaser, worked great. Will do the motor mount when I upgrade the motor, hopefully in a week or two!

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watching this one: my 6S buggy build may start adding some of your ideas into it.
really want to see if i can find a prepainted Jconcepts body for mine!

View attachment 240611
That body looks amazing and also looks like it wouldn't leave room for a motor fan.
 
The Jconcepts body has about the same amount of clearance as the stock body, enough room for a Powerhobby heatsink and two 30mm fans. The one issue I found with the Warrior body is the back doesn't have any vent cutouts like the stock body. I had issues with temps running a good 20-30 degrees warmer like that. I cut some vents in it and temps went right back down though.

I was looking for batteries and trying to find something not too tall and then realized I had some different body mounts and posts and wanted to try raising the rear of the body for more battery clearance. I know some people just drill a new hole in their shock tower and raise the stock mounts, but my towers are carbon fiber and I don't want to drill that. Basically I used the 2 mounts on the right in the first link and the posts with 3 height adjustment holes from the second link with 6mm spacers and m3x18 screws. Only other mod was the holes in the body need to be reamed out slightly larger for those posts. That lifts the back by about half an inch on the lowest setting and can go up 1 or 2 notches more if needed, so a decent option for anyone with carbon fiber towers.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-body-post-mount-set-ara320365/p635667

https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-outcast-body-post-set-ara320357/p635665

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The Jconcepts body has about the same amount of clearance as the stock body, enough room for a Powerhobby heatsink and two 30mm fans. The one issue I found with the Warrior body is the back doesn't have any vent cutouts like the stock body. I had issues with temps running a good 20-30 degrees warmer like that. I cut some vents in it and temps went right back down though.

I was looking for batteries and trying to find something not too tall and then realized I had some different body mounts and posts and wanted to try raising the rear of the body for more battery clearance. I know some people just drill a new hole in their shock tower and raise the stock mounts, but my towers are carbon fiber and I don't want to drill that. Basically I used the 2 mounts on the right in the first link and the posts with 3 height adjustment holes from the second link with 6mm spacers and m3x18 screws. Only other mod was the holes in the body need to be reamed out slightly larger for those posts. That lifts the back by about half an inch on the lowest setting and can go up 1 or 2 notches more if needed, so a decent option for anyone with carbon fiber towers.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-body-post-mount-set-ara320365/p635667

https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-outcast-body-post-set-ara320357/p635665

View attachment 240636
Or you can move the mount up by only using the top hole in the tower into the bottom hole in the mount
 
A couple more goodies, aluminum spacers for the rear chassis brace and aluminium suspension blocks. The plastic suspension blocks held up decent for 6 months, but 2 of them finally cracked. Decided to get the aluminum spacers to go with the 3drc wing mounts

Spacers are EXB with red anodizing removed, the suspension blocks are from King Hobby on ebay. Way cheaper than M2C but fit perfect and feel solid, I'll see how they do.

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