Typhon Typhon 6s: My build so far

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man! just purple degreaser to remove? those things look GREAT!
Well, I used Super Clean degreaser I already had on hand and it worked great, comes in a purple bottle at Autozone. Ran out of that and got Zep industrial degreaser that is also purple from Lowe's and it didn't work well at all, so I would recommend the Super Clean degreaser, you can get it at Autozone or Walmart. Its not as fast as the lye crystals I've seen others use, but its safe to use indoors so wasn't a big deal to me that it took longer because I could do other things while the anodizing bubbled off the aluminum.

I just ran some wire through the parts and dropped them in a plastic cup the first time and figured it out on timing as I went. After doing a few rounds, here is what worked best for me.
- Run wire through the parts & drop them in a cup of degreaser with enough wire sticking out you don't get degreaser on your hands removing them
- Let them sit about 5 minutes then take them out and rinse under water
- Use a hand held wire brush to brush off any loose anodizing that hasn't bubbled off yet, there will still be a good amount of anodizing left to remove
- Drop the parts back into the solution and let them sit for 35 to 40 minutes
- Rinse and wire brush again, should be free or almost free of anodizing, if not, soak for 10 more minutes
- Once free of anodizing and wire brushed, use a dremel polishing pad with rubbing compound for a nice shine
- Use the dremel fine wire polishing brushes on the shock threads, use the white polishing pads on everything else

Be careful on using the dremel wire brush on the shock threads. Those little wires come out of the wire brush wheel and will stick in your skin, definitely use full eye protection. Next time I do it I'm wearing gloves and a long sleeve along with the eye protection, those little wires hurt! lol I found the cup shaped wire brush to work better and not send as many little wires flying.
 
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Whole lotta changes this week:

Max6 esc
RCP aluminum esc plate
Hobbystar 4082 1600kv motor
ST Racing aluminum wing mount and center diff mount
Hot Racing aluminum center diff cover
Tekno orange springs TKR6083 rear & TKR6093 front
Apex RC long battery strap
diy kydex esc power switch mount
diy kydex rear mud guards
diy rubber rear motor support

Love how much cleaner I was able to get all the wiring and straps to look. That Spektrum esc has A LOT OF WIRE, was driving me nuts!!! :ROFLMAO: I used to do a lot of my own custom car stereo installs, so its been annoying looking at the sprawling orange wires. :LOL:

Already gave it a couple of runs with the Tekno springs before the esc/motor swap, WOW! By far the single biggest improvement an upgrade has made to my rig so far. It just eats the ground up like its nothing, way more time at full throttle with good control on 4s. My stock springs were getting so weak, I could pinch them closed way too easy. The Teknos are way firmer and a few mm longer than stock so no need for pre-tension on the springs right now. Seriously impressed with how much of a difference they made.

Used a rubber tie strap to make the rear motor support. I cut a piece about 2 inches wide and dremeled a v shaped channel in the bottom for a wire tie to sit in. Had to shave it down a little and push it in pretty good to get it under the motor, should be pretty secure like that but the wire ties should keep it from slowly working its way out. Not sure how much I need it, but have seen others mention bent motor screws and other damage from hard impacts.

Going out for a first bash with the new setup tomorrow with 2 6200mah 4s packs. I'll wait for my Powerhobby belted buggy tires before I try it on 6s should be here Saturday.

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