Typhon Typhon 6s speed run ride height??

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eddywatson

T3ddy B4gW3LL
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Stockton on Tees, England
Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 6s
Hey guys I’m tweaking my Typhon 6s for some speed runs

move installed limitless shocks and towers… however I’ve noticed when I get above 60mph that the front rises higher than the back

am I right in thinking that I need to adjust the front height to be lower than the back?
mans if that is the case what is the best way? Adjusting the droop or the shocks? If it’s the shocks how do I do it properly?
Thank you

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See the Kraton is different. My droop screws are on the bottom of the A-arm, so i just turn it upside down and sort of fold up the A-arm and loosen the droop screws from there. If the Typhon has them on top where they are adjusted, can't you use a long torx screwdriver and go through the A-arm at the top and reach in there or no?
no, because there is no straight line of sight... if I go in at an angle I risk stripping the head of the droop screw
 
Go to the hardware store and buy fuel tubing. It is usually in the plumbing section. It will be a few dollars for more than you could possibly ever need. Take the shocks off the car. Remove the spring and perch. Cut a piece of tube to match the shock shaft length with the perch and spring removed and pulled out to the full extension. Slide that over the shaft and put the rod end back on. Now the shock will be locked at max length. MAKE SURE BOTH SIDES MATCH! This is how you want the rears. Forget about droop. Keep that back end up high and tight.

Now for the front, it’s a little bit more tricky. Here you will need to put the fuel tubing on the shaft on the inside of the shock body, which requires you to fully remove the shock shaft and slide the tubing on before putting the shaft back in. The tough part here is figuring out how much tubing to put there. I would start with a longer piece and keep trimming it. Again, you won’t need droop adjustments if you get the tube length right. You will still use the springs and perches up front and it will be a challenge to get them back on. You will want the shock collars all the way up to make the springs as easy to work with for assembly, but tighten them back down after getting the perch on to keep them stiff.

You may find yourself doing this many times to get it perfect. You want the nose 5mm or less off the ground. Face down, ass up as they say. This is not a 5 min easy project. This whole process could take you a day to get it right. Lots of trial and error.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...ft-Vinyl-Micro-Fuel-Line-HKP004-015/303132524
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...ft-Vinyl-Micro-Fuel-Line-HKP004-015/303132524
 
Try to get the front only about 1/2"-3/4"off the ground with tightening up droop screws. Rear I'd say leave about 1"- 1 1/4" off the ground. If your just going to run stock shocks like I do tighten the shock collars all the way down so shocks are as stiff as possible. I use Kraton springs also as they are stiffer but you may not have extras lying around like I did so just make sure to fully compress the shock spring with the shock collars. So far my new setup stretched Typhon has seen 105 on 4s and no issue at all with lift or blow over. Here's a pic of the rake on my setupView attachment 166252View attachment 166253

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Heres mine in comparison, w/o packs ..my road is smooth so its low.been in the 90s here in stl for last month +++..TO hot for me to run.rain an cooler temps this week.🤞🤞🤞been stuck at 140mph for a long time..

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How do I reach or get To droop screw without taking the car apart? There’s no clear path… lol

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Moving the suspension travel helps.have ta get creative. RAZ drills hole throu upper arm to reach droop.i run these drops an love um
 

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I've got the perfect recipe for 140++PB.huge esc,huge motor,huge packs,huge b*lls.😂🤣😅😆. I Mean I'm just stupid enough to go out there an pin it to win it.getting pb before winter.
 
I drill a hole throught the upper front arm for access with a hex driver. I do this on most of my 6s rigs where access is bad.
I hate fiddling with access at the bottom. I make sure I have "dedicated droop screws" first and formost. I upgrade if needed. Some rigs Arrma just placed M4 bolts as droop screws. Kind of dumb IMHO. All to save 3 cents on the pricepoint. They cheap out on this with some rigs.
I play with droop alot. Easily done with access. Often overlooked by so many. Many don't' even know its a thing! :LOL:Droop out the box is way off IMHO. One of the first things I address.:cool:
Stiffen the shocks by increasing spring load (screwing the collars down)... then... use the droop setting to lower the chassis. Easy concept.:)
 
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