Typhon Typhon 6s upgrade?

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Arrma RC's
Hi i have been bashing my typhon for some time 4s and 6s with good results but tried to go to a clay track and had problems controlling it, on 6s was difficult to control and with 4s was easier but clearly overpowered, im a rookie this been my first rc, a guy there told me that i have to get a sensored motor cause with that i will be able to tune it to control its power another told me that i can get a transmitter that can be setup to help with steering and throttle, do you think i will just get better with time or is worth it to do one or both of those things?
I would focus on the following: (note, I'm no expert - just been doing this for 20+ years off and on with various vehicles...)

  1. Make sure you steering trim is setup correctly so the car tracks true and straight.
  2. Be sure your throttle calibration is configured in your ESC (if applicable, check your manual)
  3. Configure your steering dual-rate and mark on the transmitter where your maximum is, most likely if the track moves fast (outdoors) this will be too much and you'll need to then experiment with turning it down a bit further. This has 2 effects, limiting minimum turning radius and also increasing the precision of your steering.
  4. Make sure your ride hight is set at a good starting point. I wouldn't start a race with the buggy up high, I would start it around where the A-Arms are parallel to the chassis, then dial it in depending on how it handles on the track for future races (if lots of jumps/technical obstacles and few turns I may raise ride hight around half to 1cm max, if the course is almost flat with lots of turns I might even lower it from what I mentioned it before a little).
  5. Change the oil out of your diffs to what suits your driving, for starting out in a race I'd probably run something like 35-50K in center, and between 20-35K front and rear. If I notice a wheel spinning at parts of the track (either its up in the air or it just is on too loose surface) then I would go up in diff oil thickness for that diff.
  6. If your bottoming out a lot, I'd swap out the springs and shock oil. For racing I'd start with Team Durango 'Red' rated springs and see how it reacts, too stiff springs and your constantly sliding out at every possible turn, too loose and your bottoming out and loosing speed. The red is what I'm comfortable with, but you can get a color above or below to tune as needed. For Oil I'd run 70wt in front shocks and 55wt in rear shocks.
If you tell us about the track (what is it made of, look like, etc.) and what your buggy is doing that you don't want it to do we may be able to give you more specific advice.

Honestly, no parts changes / setup changes has ever made as much of an impact on my driving as simple practice has... learning what the buggy 'wants' to do and what you don't want it to do and then adapting your driving to accommodate. Once I got good at that, it was actually easier to know what parts to tune/change to push the rig even faster on the track.

Here's a video on setting steering dual rate:

Are you running the red BLX180 esc, or something else?

I've taken my Talion to the track several times. The BLX180 has a bad case of throttle lag. Bashing, it is no big deal, but for track use, where you need power NOW, and the right amount of power, that lag is a PITA. Upgrading my ESC is high on my to-do list.

A few other thoughts (trying not to repeat Orange)
- Look to other racers for set up tips, spring rates, shock oil weight, diff oils... Team Durango guys would be best, but anyone at the track should be able to get you in the ball-park for these basics. Techno springs fit the Arrma shock, if you can't get TD springs local.
-Tires - Again, talk to the locals, and find the 'right' tire. Tires make a HUGE difference. Buy the tires the fast guys use.
-batteries - Don't worry about 6s. 4s is where it is at for racing.
- Speed - Despite what a lot of new racers think, winning (at a club level) is not about who is fastest. It is about who is the most consistent. Slower is faster, until you can run the whole 10 minute main with no crashes. So 4s, and gear down a bit. If you are crashing more than once a lap, dial the throttle EPA back to 80%, or even 50%. Slower is faster.
-Last - and yes I am repeating Orange here, because it is important - no upgrade beats track time. Practice as much as you can.

Have fun,
I can't imagine needing 6s on any RC track. It's hard enough to control that in wide open spaces.
There is a local movement in my area with racers running 6s. However, they are also switching to low KV motors, in the 1300kv-1400kv range for e-bug, and 1500-1600kv for truggy. Ironically, those that switch say the biggest advantage of this set up is low speed control. Down the main straight, they are a bit slower.

Slower is faster. :)
So this is the plan, 4s,find out which tire the fast guys are running, lowering it because now sits high cause the springs are weak, ordering red Springs, setting up the dual rate, and practice every Sunday, i know 6 s is too much but is so much fun but not competitive, thanks for your help
An update, im always behind but getting better, for some reason the typhon is not bouncing back like before, it just squats, i feel that something is wrong with it maybe service to the shocks but i don't know which oil to use, some ideas?
My stock springs I considered too weak (soft), rebound didn't always bring it up to where I wanted it. But often a bent shock shaft will cause the shock to bind and you'll see this as it hangs to low (you can pull it up and it will stay up, but push down and it sticks again) so check those.

If nothing is wrong, you may want to consider different springs. I swapped to the springs I mentioned in this post and it's much much better.
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