Granite Typhon arms/axles/hexes are better than Hot Racing extensions

[GRC]

I've been running Hot Racing 10mm extensions on my Granite since March. The extra width definitely definitely provided a big performance improvement over stock. However, the loc-tite needed to keep the wheels on was breaking loose regularly. Also, I was snapping axles too often, which I think is exacerbated by the loc-tite.

I just switched to Typhon arms/axles/hexes. Mainly for durability. The Typhon axles are much thicker. The pin is kept in by the wheel AND a screw. They don't rely on loc-tite to keep the wheels on. The arms still provide extra width and the hexes still provide 17mm wheel compatibility. I just installed them, but judging by the way they are setup, I expect them to be much more durable and reliable than the stock Granite axles with Hot Racing extensions.

*update - I'm SO happy with the Typhon axles, nuts, and hexes, they have been rock solid. Multiple bashes and hard hits but zero problems. However, the longer arms do change the handling/suspension a bit. There's more A-arm flex (I'm using RPM arms). Better for preventing rollover, but steering response is a bit looser. After adjusting suspension, camber, and toe out accordingly, I'd say I prefer the overall performance of the Typhon arms over the Hot Racing extensions. As far as durability goes, there's no contest, the Typhon axles, nuts, and hexes are MUCH better.

 

[K-BASH]

I got the typon arms and the hot racing extensions and every time I break an axle taking a barrel nut off reLoctite and putting it back on is getting to be a pain you got a part number for them axles?. I think I'll give it a try with the typhon n arms the stock axles are maxed out I went through about 10 of them. With the extensions on there seems like there's way more Weebly wobbliness than should be

 

[Peteyk49]

I've been running Hot Racing 10mm extensions on my Granite since March. The extra width definitely definitely provided a big performance improvement over stock. However, the loc-tite needed to keep the wheels on was breaking loose regularly. Also, I was snapping axles too often, which I think is exacerbated by the loc-tite.

I just switched to Typhon arms/axles/hexes. Mainly for durability. The Typhon axles are much thicker. The pin is kept in by the wheel AND a screw. They don't rely on loc-tite to keep the wheels on. The arms still provide extra width and the hexes still provide 17mm wheel compatibility. I just installed them, but judging by the way they are setup, I expect them to be much more durable and reliable than the stock Granite axles with Hot Racing extensions.

But an unexpected bonus was the performance. The Granite handles MUCH better. I was really having trouble trying to get it to roll on concrete. On grass it was cornering much sharper. I could roll it, but it took a lot more. I should mention I'm using RPM Typhon arms, I have a feeling the extra flexibility contributes to the performance.

I'm kind of upset I didn't do this sooner/from the start. When people ask about widening a Granite/Big Rock/Senton, the Hot Racing extensions are usually recommended, but so far it looks like the Typhon arms/axles/hexes are a much better option.

I put both the rpm typhon a arms and hr hub extenders on my sons brcc. I had to use red loctite to keep the barrel nuts on. I put the arrma CVd slider axles on it as well. It’s been solid so far.

 

[GRC]

I got the typon arms and the hot racing extensions and every time I break an axle taking a barrel nut off reLoctite and putting it back on is getting to be a pain you got a part number for them axles?. I think I'll give it a try with the typhon n arms the stock axles are maxed out I went through about 10 of them. With the extensions on there seems like there's way more Weebly wobbliness than should be

Typhon 3s axles, look how much thicker they are! https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310905
You also need the hexes and nuts https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310906 : https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310904
You'll also need the hex pins and screws https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR713029 : https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR722310

I ordered from Jenny's RC, which includes all the screws and pins. Overall, slightly more $$, but you also get 4 new driveshafts, which makes this the better deal
https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...iveshafts-front-rear-new-wheel-axles-ar102696
https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...mm-red-aluminum-metal-wheel-hex-hubs-ar102696

I put both the rpm typhon a arms and hr hub extenders on my sons brcc. I had to use red loctite to keep the barrel nuts on. I put the arrma CVd slider axles on it as well. It’s been solid so far.

They can hold up through quite a bit, but eventually flying wheels and snapped axles always happened again. With those CVD sliders, the axles still snap, and those axles get expensive. I had them, I switched back to the stock driveshafts, which have never caused me a problem. Fortunately, or maybe because of my GPM knuckle arms, I haven't had the issue with stock driveshafts popping out like others have.

 

[Peteyk49]

Typhon 3s axles, look how much thicker they are! https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310905
You also need the hexes and hubs https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310906 : https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310904
You'll also need the hex pins and screws https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR713029 : https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR722310

I ordered from Jenny's RC, which includes all the screws and pins. Overall, slightly more $$, but you also get 4 new driveshafts, which makes this the better deal
https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...iveshafts-front-rear-new-wheel-axles-ar102696
https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...mm-red-aluminum-metal-wheel-hex-hubs-ar102696

They can hold up through quite a bit, but eventually flying wheels and snapped axles always happened again. With those CVD sliders, the axles still snap, and those axles get expensive. I had them, I switched back to the stock driveshafts, which have never caused me a problem. Fortunately, or maybe because of my GPM knuckle arms, I haven't had the issue with stock driveshafts popping out like others have.

If we start having issues I’ll have to try your set up. Thanks for the tip.

 

[parcou]

Good post....!

I made the Granite switch but for another reason removing my HR extenders. Using the RPM Typhon arms, Typhon turnbuckles, but I kept the stock 14mm hex since I had 3 sets of 14mm tires. Maybe down the road, I can go back to the 17mm tire nice thing about that Proline has the "raid" system to use 17mm on 14mm hex. I agree I am pleased with the performance

The 17mm nut is better but I have a better serrated and flanged nut I use when bashing over the stock...

Post up some pic of your rig...

 

[GRC]

I think my upgrades are just about complete. Only thing left may be Lunsford titanium turnbuckles if the Typhon composite plastic links don't work out. I'll be taking updated photos once I think everything is finalized. Next step after that is a new body. I have an Ambush MT body that's been waiting for paint for a long time.

 

[parcou]

I think my upgrades are just about complete. Only thing left may be Lunsford titanium turnbuckles if the Typhon composite plastic links don't work out. I'll be taking updated photos once I think everything is finalized. Next step after that is a new body. I have an Ambush MT body that's been waiting for paint for a long time.
View attachment 91820

This looks really good!

 

[GRC]

I thought the arms improved cornering, but I realized I did change something else, the camber and steering links. I was using the Granite Mega composite plastic links. With the Typhon arms I switched to the Typhon Mega composite plastic links. It did change the camber and toe out, which could also account for the change in cornering.

 

[GRC]

Bah, it's not the arms that changed the cornering. It's the rear camber links. The Typhon Mega composite plastic links result in near zero rear camber. This makes the rear wheels slip more easily, which sharpens cornering in grippy conditions like concrete or thick grass, but it made the rear end slide out way too much in loose conditions. Looks like I'm getting the Lunsford titanium turnbuckles.

 

[GRC]

Post up some pic of your rig...

Lunsford Typhon 3s turnbuckles installed and I think she's done! Maybe some parts from the upgraded 3s line when they're available. Here are some pics.

 

[TxCmurda]

Lunsford Typhon 3s turnbuckles installed and I think she's done! Maybe some parts from the upgraded 3s line when they're available. Here are some pics.

Is that just a sticky sided foam you have on the tailgate, roof and suspension tower?

 

[GRC]

Is that just a sticky sided foam you have on the tailgate, roof and suspension tower?

The tailgate is a Traxxas Maxx tailguard, modified to make it fit. The roof is heat moldable plastic. Both stay on with just double sided waterproof Gorilla tape. I used to have sticky sided foam on the suspension tower. It worked, but shifted over time. The photo is heavy duty felt. I haven't tested it yet. There is sticky sided foam in the bumper spring. I HIGHLY recommend this. All my upgrades are here: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/upgrades-to-my-granite-4x4-blx-3s.23319/

*update - the heavy duty felt didn't last. I switched back to sticky sided foam tape.

 

[Bryank930]

Lunsford Typhon 3s turnbuckles installed and I think she's done! Maybe some parts from the upgraded 3s line when they're available. Here are some pics.

That fan on the motor heatsink...Is that held on by just driving the screws between the fins? What size fan and screws did you use?

 

[GRC]

That fan on the motor heatsink...Is that held on by just driving the screws between the fins? What size fan and screws did you use?

Yes, held on by screws between the fins. 30mm fan. The screws came with the fan. Looks like they are M2 x 20mm. The fan worked well, kept things cool. I was running high speed today. Haven't given it a durability bash test yet. It's really loud though. 28000 rpm. My last fan was 14000, not as loud, still kept the motor cool. Unfortunately the wires got frayed.

The Lunsford turnbuckles screw in much tighter than stock (and they're so pretty ). Hopefully they won't have to be re-adjusted after every run like the stock ones. So far so good, no adjustment needed today, but I didn't really bash them hard.

 

[parcou]

Lunsford Typhon 3s turnbuckles installed and I think she's done! Maybe some parts from the upgraded 3s line when they're available. Here are some pics.

Sir that is clean...and it's also clean

Question. I REALLY want a fan on my motor heat sink for here in the south like the new Granite coming out. You mind sharing what you bought but more importantly...how do I connect it in and hook it up for power...direct connect, need some form of a jumper...do you mind taking me to school, please

 

[GRC]

Sir that is clean...and it's also clean

Question. I REALLY want a fan on my motor heat sink for here in the south like the new Granite coming out. You mind sharing what you bought but more importantly...how do I connect it in and hook it up for power...direct connect, need some form of a jumper...do you mind taking me to school, please

That's the cleanest I've had the truck in months. It's dirty again already.

You plug the fan into your receiver for power. Plugs in just like your servo and esc. You'll need at least a 3 channel receiver to hook it up since the servo and receiver are taking up 2 channels.

I bought the fan from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083DX5J57/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just got this one, so I can't say how durable it is.

I had this one before. https://www.amazon.com/Tornado-Alum...rnado&qid=1596714759&s=toys-and-games&sr=1-10 Very durable, survived hard bashes for months. Unfortunately the wires got frayed where they rub against the case. The new fan has a very similar design, so I think it's equally likely to fray the wires, I'm just being a little more careful to place the wires so they don't move around so much this time.

Definitely get a fan with an aluminum case. The plastic Arrma fan got completely trashed after two bashes.

 

[Bryank930]

I just picked up the cheapest yeah racing fan my LHS had. It's plastic, but it came with screws and screwed right onto the stock arrma heatsink. It actually moves an impressive amount of air for a tiny little fan. We'll see how long it lasts though.

 

[GRC]

Is that just a sticky sided foam you have on the tailgate, roof and suspension tower?

Another option. Pro-line just came out with these

 

[churkle]

Typhon 3s axles, look how much thicker they are! https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310905
You also need the hexes and hubs https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310906 : https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310904
You'll also need the hex pins and screws https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR713029 : https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR722310

I ordered from Jenny's RC, which includes all the screws and pins. Overall, slightly more $$, but you also get 4 new driveshafts, which makes this the better deal
https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...iveshafts-front-rear-new-wheel-axles-ar102696
https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...mm-red-aluminum-metal-wheel-hex-hubs-ar102696

They can hold up through quite a bit, but eventually flying wheels and snapped axles always happened again. With those CVD sliders, the axles still snap, and those axles get expensive. I had them, I switched back to the stock driveshafts, which have never caused me a problem. Fortunately, or maybe because of my GPM knuckle arms, I haven't had the issue with stock driveshafts popping out like others have.

stock sized bearings and blocks will all fit these larger axles? Just checking before I order. the extenders have been a nuisance for me. Thanks!