Typhon Typhon battery size

Beaker

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Hi guys,

I've just ordered my new Typhon v2 from Tower. Super pumped for a drive when it finally gets here, so I'm trying to be organised and order some batteries in advance. This being an upgrade for me from my current mini e-revo, I'm painfully aware of how imporrant it is to get a decent battery that fits.

The problem is I'm unable to find anything but sketchy ideas on battery sizes for the typhon. Ive found a youtube video saying the tray is 159mm Length x 51mm Width and that you can only fit a battery up to 50mm Height.

Try as i might I'm struggling to find locally even soft packs at 5000mah in 3S that's only 25mm thick. And yet all the videos I've seen of people's Typhons show doubled up 70C or even 100C lipos yp to 6000mah in hard packs. Either I'm missing something or these dimensions I have found are totally off.

Someone with a Typhon please help, I've emailed Arrma Support but no response yet. And i need definite dimensions, rather than battery suggestions. The new dangerous good policy means alot of the batteries available in USA etc are not available here in Australia. :(

Cheers in advance!
 

starryalley

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Hi I just got my v2 typhon last week and I use the following 2 sets of batteries:
- 2 x 3s 35C 5200mAh (soft case) 148x49x29mm
- 1 x 4s 40C 5200mAh (hard case) 137.5x46.5x48mm

These are also the biggest that I could find in my country. None of 3s hard case batteries exist here..

They fits pretty good. With the 6s set I can stand the 2 batteries side by side and they will almost fit the tray width. With both set I got, if I route the XT90 connector on top of the battery (fastened with the hook and loop) the body shell will touch the battery cable and will hardly fit. But it looks OK to me since I sometimes only attach 2 of the body clips (total 3). The height is about 49mm and the other 48mm, which matches what you found on the internet. So with the cable on top the height will go over 50mm which won't fit.

I may have to try to route the cable from the side so the height won't affect body shell installation. I'm just too new to 1/8 buggy so I'm afraid the ESC/battery cable may touch the spur/pinion gears if I route it sideway :p

FYI.
 

OrangeDRAGON

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I would only use hard case 2S and 4S batteries, its difficult (if not dangerous) to fit hard case 3S because if you are stacking them you risk a battery sliding out. Basically you want any battery configuration that fits in the tray and does NOT require the batteries to be stacked on top of each other - if at all possible (if you do have to stack them, run a length-wise battery strap under the box and secure the batteries long ways)

The tray is EXACTLY 156mm Long, 51mm Wide, checked 3 times. Height depends on being able to put the lid on and whether you want the wires on top of the packs (don't let them hit the spur!!) I'd say 45mm height is ideal to have plenty of room for cables on top, about 52-55mm is the max and you'll have to secure the cables elsewhere instead of on top (away from the spur).

Some I've noticed run 3S or 6S hard case packs that are physically sized smaller with reduced capacity (3000-4600mAh) - this is OK too, again as long as you secure them properly. But any 3S or 6S that is close to or above 5000mAh will generally NEED to be a soft-case to fit properly.

IMPORTANT: Be sure to REMOVE the battery spacing 'knubs' inside the battery tray if you are using soft-case batteries. They WILL eventually damage your battery (and you risk a fire). If you are using a soft-case pack that doesn't fill the tray, I would recommend cutting some foam (ideally hard foam) and placing it at the flat end of the pack to take up space. Again, only use the battery spacing 'knubs' if you are running hard-case batteries.
 

Beaker

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All good info. I eventually went for a gens ace 22.2V 6s 5000mah 45-90c single battery. I know people suggest getting 2x 3s incase pme dies for a cheaper replacement. Bit in my eyes this seems mute, since you shouldn't use packs of different ahe together anyway.

The 6S single was the only viable way for me in Australia anyway, to get good fitment, with a higher than average C rating. On top of that, it means i can charge 2 full 6S batteries at once on my new D100 SkyRC dual charger, I would need a quad charger to do that with stacked 3S 's, as well as the extra cables, temp sensors and bigger costs of a quad charger that would entail.

Waiting on everything to arrive to see if it all fits. Super excited!
 

rcadix

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So has it finally arrived yet? I would get gens ace 6s if i can find it here in the us. I settled for 2x 3s lectron pro 5200mah 50c (by common sense rc). This lipo has slimmer profile and fits perfectly when stacked horizontally into batt tray. ~64mph top speed @18t.
 
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Beaker

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Ooh, they sound good! Wish I was able to find them here. But mine should be fine. :)
Still waiting on everything to arrive, so far only the new charger has come.

I ended up going for a SkyRC D100. It feels solid as, no extra power source required as it's AC/DC, and is basically 2x 100W chargers in one. Was $158AU delivered. Had to order the temperature sensors separatly, from the UK (cheaper) so still waiting on those.

Went down to jaycar and for less than $20AU and a bit of soldering/ heatshrinking later, I have a freshly made 2.5m long car battery to XT60 plug made for the DC port. Now i can charge from the car when I'm out and about.
 

Beaker

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Charger and Typhon have arrived now. Still waiting on batteries, temperature sensor and wifi adapter for the charger. I get home next Monday, will reply with fit then, and maybe a pic or two.
 

Beaker

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Everything arrived fine, and had a ball driving the new v2 Typhon around the park for the week. The pup hasn't looked this tired in months! =D

Soldering the XT90s was easy as, and I must admit, they are a far nicer plug to use and solder than the traxxas plugs I'm used to.

The gens-ace-r-spam batteries I ordered did NOT fit though. The quoted dimensions of 157x46x50 mm were wrong, the length is closer to 165mm at the centre. It required me to take a hot knife to the battery tray and cut out the two centre lugs on the front section.

It came up pretty neat, and all fits now, but to say I was disappointed at having butcher my new car before even being able to drive it is an understatement.

I found the front left tyre needed regluing after my first run, just on grass so far, not sure if that happened during the run or was there from factory.

Also, one of the hex screws holding the spur gear cover onto the motor mount bracket has been stripped from factory, so I'll have to easy-out that once I find a replacement in my spares box.

The dBoots tyres handle well on the grass, giving just the right amount of slip to allow it to corner at high speed still. They do unfortunately have a fair amount of ballooning under acceleration, once I end up replacing them I'll be looking at Prolines and taping to keep this under control.

All that considered, I'm happy as hell! All small issues, easily fixed. The car handles amazingly, fast as, corners so much better than I was expecting. Really loving this car, and looking forward to playing with it more once I get home.
 

starryalley

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Congrats on your new typhon :)

I re-glued all 4 stock tires after about 5-6 runs. One tire's inner side came completely unglued and the foam insert just shot out and gone. The other 3 have some part unglued also. I bought a cheap foam insert and fixed that. The dBoots on asphalt is terrible. It just can't have enough grip for turning. My Duratrax shotgun C3 isn't for asphalt but on asphalt the car just traction rolls in very low speed. I will try grass next time!

My screw holes stripped also on the plastic center diff mount. Don't know how to fix that yet.. I only added some thread lock on it but I don't know if it works. I just removed it once and then the hole stripped.
 

Beaker

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Mine was stripped before I even got to it. I'll end up drilling it out and removing with an easy-out when I find a replacement screw. Shouldn't be a problem. Not sure how something like that isn't noticed during assembly though.

I was more annoyed when trying to change out the stock pinion for a 16T. Got the grub screw out, definitely some blue loctite on that, but that was as far as I got. Could not for the life of me get the pinion gear off without damaging something. Tried levering it off and everything but wouldn't budge. I'll end up removing the entire motor and giving the shaft itself a tap I think, can't see any other option for it. Unless I use heat.

Yeah I'm sure the stock dBoots are useless on asphalt, i hear the duratrax banditos are a superb tyre if that's your preferred surface. I'm still undecided on a tyre choice, but I'll be spending most of my time on grass and hard clay I think. So many options.
 

starryalley

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Yes it is very difficult to remove the 14T pinion from the motor shaft. I was just going to purchase a pinion removal tool before I found something suitable to be used as a lever to remove it. It took me about an hour to remove the grub screw and the pinion and install the 16T one. I think I didn't damage the 14T pinion at all, but after running 16T I don't think I'd go back to using 14T :p
 

Typhon

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I was in your shoes trying to figure out the biggest/cheaper mah battery i could find in a single 4s hardpack. I wanted to try Lihv batteries and settled on the turnigy lihv 5000mah 35-70c. Though i failed to do my research and came to find out the batteries are a few mm longer than the battery tray. I was super bummed but was tired of waiting to drive my new typhon. So being a sheet metal worker for a living i bent up a new tray out of aluminun drilled a bunch of holes in it to lighten it up. Came out to be about 8-9 grams heavier than stock. Slapped some flat black paint on it and on i went. Ive had zero issues with it after 5 runs but to fellow typhon users beware of that turnigy battery. Being in a sling at the moment it took a 20 min job and become hours long for me to accomplish. Though the extra voltage is definitely noticed for the first few laps and im achieving probably close to 20min run time on my track with the stock 14t pinion
 

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Jerry-rigged

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Add me to the list of "clipped battery trays". My Turnigy 5000mah, 60c are just too long. I used tin snips to the 'ears' on the front of the battery tray. Now they fit.
 

Typhon

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Add me to the list of "clipped battery trays". My Turnigy 5000mah, 60c are just too long. I used tin snips to the 'ears' on the front of the battery tray. Now they fit.[/Q
Add me to the list of "clipped battery trays". My Turnigy 5000mah, 60c are just too long. I used tin snips to the 'ears' on the front of the battery tray. Now they fit.
It sucks cutting into your new truck. Arrma should release a revised tray. I assume your using a strap long ways to secure your battery?
 

Jerry-rigged

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If the pack is a proper "Roar Approved" size pack, it fits with 1/2" to spare. And no, I don't use a long-ways strap - the battery is right against the Rx box. Someday I may regret not having that strap, but for now...
 

rcadix

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on the same boat...i really wish arrma should have increased the width and length of the battery tray a bit. It's easy to put pads than cutting thru the plastic - not to mention it's way more decent looking

And for those who has access to lectron pro batteries, the newer ones are slimmer and fits nicely (2 x 3s)
 

Typhon

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on the same boat...i really wish arrma should have increased the width and length of the battery tray a bit. It's easy to put pads than cutting thru the plastic - not to mention it's way more decent looking

And for those who has access to lectron pro batteries, the newer ones are slimmer and fits nicely (2 x 3s)
Yes that is very true. Wouldnt take much engineering for arrma to make a new tray and i know a ton of users woukd buy one. Maybe gka will step into the market and make one for us! Just an fyi arrma told me the esc cutoff is 3.2v and is fixed. Most people know this already but thats the lowest a standard lipo should ever get for maybe the straggler like me that was unsure. my Lihv batteries can only go down to 3.5v per cell.obviously the esc is too low for them so i Just run an aftermarket cutoff alarm to save my packs
 

Josh nortz

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I use electrical tape to tape them both ways in my kraton, 7200mah 70c spc 3s hard case... great batteries run time around 35 to 45 minutes with badlands and a 14 tooth pinion. they are to tall for my typhon so I'm using 4s 6500mah 65c smc works awesome, fast and balanced feel. jumps good, center diff lube is 100k, other than that and a tire change its stock. may jump a tooth or 2 on the pinion.
 

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promtb

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While expensive, I HIGHLY recommend popping the extra dough and picking up a MaxAmps lipo. There is a legitimate difference in punch and lasting power of these versus pretty much everything else. This one is sized for an exact fit for the stock battery tray. They are all built to order, you choose the connector. I chose the single 6s, with a castle connector (my esc is a mamba monster) and they do a great job of getting them built and out next day. I have around 15 MaxAmps lipos for my various RC's, not once let down!

https://www.maxamps.com/lipo-5450-6s-22-2v-battery-pack
 

Josh nortz

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While expensive, I HIGHLY recommend popping the extra dough and picking up a MaxAmps LiPo. There is a legitimate difference in punch and lasting power of these versus pretty much everything else. This one is sized for an exact fit for the stock battery tray. They are all built to order, you choose the connector. I chose the single 6s, with a castle connector (my esc is a mamba monster) and they do a great job of getting them built and out next day. I have around 15 MaxAmps lipos for my various RC's, not once let down!

https://www.maxamps.com/LiPo-5450-6s-22-2v-battery-pack
well then... here is the deal yes maxampsare awesome batteries however there is no diffrence in the 6000mah 3s 100c maxamps my buddy has and my 7200mah 70c spc racing lipos yes you have to use traxxas or dean's or be able to solder them. my spc batteries are just as good as his maxamps. and for what he paid I can have 4 spc and run all day while you charge your expensive batteries I will be out woopin on my car. I've ran both several times in my xmaxx and my kraton. if your hard core racer then I would say Maxx amps but if your just playing and having fun then go cheaper read reviews ask questions. I have several different batteries from several manufacturers for different cars. I use cheap reaction lipos in my halix and slash, duratrax onyx in my Nero, spc smc in Maxx and kraton and typhoon, a couple leftover traxxas batteries, a lectron, I'm sure some others. they are different "c" ratings and mahs for different rigs. they all work some are better or nicer or have flames on them... flames and big $$$$$ does not make them better sometimes just more expensive to replace. if your not racing then just buy decent lipos and a gooder charger. Balance charge, storage charge..... ect ect ect...
 

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