Typhon typhon on 6S - questions

[cbrown81]

Hi guys, hoping I can benefit from the collective experience on here - got a question about my new RC.

I've recently bought a v3 Typhon and am currently running it on 6s. My only other experience of RCs has been an FTX Vantage that I've been running on 2S and 3S, so this is the first 1/8-scale car I've run, and the first time I've used as much power as 6S.

My only question so far is that I'm not sure it's as quick as it should be. Don't get me wrong, this should be taken in context: it's still pretty F-ing fast, but it doesn't seem as brutal as I've been led to believe 6S should be.

The car is absolutely stock, and I haven't installed the 16-tooth speed pinion. Should the car be able to wheelie when giving it full throttle? Mine certainly doesn't. Looking at youtube (not always the best place for impartial advice, I know...) it looks like some of them do. Not sure if they're stock though. I was hoping some experienced people on here could give me the benefit of their experience.

The only thing I can think of that might be holding it back is the batteries: I'm running 2x Overlander 4500mAh 55C rated packs. It says in the manual to run 5000mAh 35C packs minimum, so I thought the ones I've got would be plenty - although the mAh rating is less than 5000mAh, I thought the 'C' rating would more than compensate. The basis for my thinking was along the lines of the following:

• The ESC is quoted as 150A
• Therefore the batteries should be able to supply 150A
• That makes sense for Arrma's quoted battery minimum - 5000mAh at 35C would give a current supply capability of 175A
• My batteries, quoted as 4500mAh and 55C should be able to supply c.247A, which should be more than enough

However, when I unwrapped the batteries it states that they're actually 30C rated constantly, with 55C 'burst' rating. So, if they're only 30C, then they can only provide 135A, and that might be holding back the ESC from giving the motor the full beans.

Peoples' thought would be much appreciated - thank you in advance.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

A few thoughts -
If you are running the stock tires, they don't grip worth a flip anywhere. So you will never get the silly acceleration you see in vids...

If you are running the stock pinion on 4s, the car will max out around 35mph - fast, but again, not the 'Wow' most people are looking for in this car.

Batteries - with the 14t on 4s, with the no-traction tires, the motor is just kind of purring along, so your batteries are probably OK. Add traction or more pinion teeth, and you may start to stress your batteries. Next time you are shopping, I'd say look for a minimum of 50C constant, 5000mah packs.

If you want to stay with 4s, I'd say get some good tires (Badlands or Lockups for general bashing, or for road bashing, Banditos or GRP slicks.
Next, bump the pinion to 16t-17t-18t - watch temps. Last - for bashing, pull the diffs, and swap fluids to something like 10k-100k-10k Front-Center-Rear.

Note that if you add heavy fluid to the center difff, and good high traction tires, the Typhon can wheelie - it is not a wheelie machine like the Outcast - it is just too low slung, COG is really low.

 

[arrmatyphon]

I had a ftx carnage to then got my Arrma Typhon went 4s now 6s. I tried 16t for a while but then upgraded to a hobbywing max 8 combo with the 2200kv. I did my share of speed runs but now back to bashing with a 19t proline badlands 2.2 tyres and 65c batteries max punch. Crazy wheelies at any speed but diff oils 60f/100c/30r. I always check temps but. I actually tried 16t again not long ago and that seemed slow lol but depends what you want out of it. I wouldn't run 30c batteries.

 

[cbrown81]

Thanks for the replies guys.

To be honest, I'm struggling to see battery packs that are available that are 5000mAh 50C rated. I'm in the UK - not sure if it's harder here to get batteries than it is for folks elsewhere in the world.

I'm assuming if I increase pinion size then I'll gain in top speed, but will lose in acceleration? In other words, the car will be less likely to wheelie? It's not that I'm desperate to have the car wheelie-ing everywhere, its just that if other peoples' typhons are doing it on a stock motor and esc then I'd be worried that mine's down on power.

Thanks again.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

For batteries, check with Hobbyking.com. I have some of their batteries, if you stick with the better lines(Nano-tech, Trackstar, Graphine), they are great. I think they have a Euro warehouse, and a global warehouse that ships to most of the world.

For the pinion - it is complicated. In theory, you are right, but the reality is that brushless motors make more short-burst torque than can be used in most cases. Adding teeth to the pinion can actually increase the wheelies, because the wheels can finally grip, instead of just spinning like crazy. Watch the temps, though. Invest in a temp gun of some kind. Here in the USA, I can get them from tool stores or home improvement stores for $15-$30. Cheap enough that there is no reason not to have one.

Last - have you calibrated your radio to the ESC? Check you manual for instructions. Seems common that they are not calibrated out of the box. The ESC thinks the throttle end point is different than it really is, and you only get 60%-80% throttle. Calibrate it, and the ESC will know where 100% really is.

Good Luck!

 

[cbrown81]

For batteries, check with Hobbyking.com. I have some of their batteries, if you stick with the better lines(Nano-tech, Trackstar, Graphine), they are great. I think they have a Euro warehouse, and a global warehouse that ships to most of the world.

For the pinion - it is complicated. In theory, you are right, but the reality is that brushless motors make more short-burst torque than can be used in most cases. Adding teeth to the pinion can actually increase the wheelies, because the wheels can finally grip, instead of just spinning like crazy. Watch the temps, though. Invest in a temp gun of some kind. Here in the USA, I can get them from tool stores or home improvement stores for $15-$30. Cheap enough that there is no reason not to have one.

Last - have you calibrated your radio to the ESC? Check you manual for instructions. Seems common that they are not calibrated out of the box. The ESC thinks the throttle end point is different than it really is, and you only get 60%-80% throttle. Calibrate it, and the ESC will know where 100% really is.

Good Luck!

That's great - thank you for that: I'll give Hobbyking a try when it's time for new batteries.

I think I understand what you're talking about in regards to gearing up but still getting better shove. It's the same in my car: sometimes in a higher gear when the wheels don't spin, it gives the engine a better chance to generate its full torque, instead of the wheels spinning like crazy in a lower gear and giving the engine nothing to push against.

I'll definitely try the radio/ESC calibration though - hadn't thought of that. Even if it makes no difference, it costs nothing to try.

Many thanks again.

 

[Mongoose]

I'll second calibrating the esc. Before I did it I felt underwhelmed with my Kraton..granted it was only on 4S but I still thought it should have more power. I chocked it to "meh, what do I know, I've never driven something like this"...but then I did the calibration and it made a big difference. Top speed greatly increased and it took off with just the littlest of movement to the trigger.

 

[cbrown81]

Thanks guys.

Just a quick question: when I calibrate the transmitter to the ESC (page 27 of the manual), I'm effectively telling the ESC what throttle position on the transmitter corresponds to the maximum power condition, is that right?

If so, what does the end point adjustment on the transmitter do? (page 24 of the manual)

Thanks in advance!

 

[Jerry-rigged]

The calibration procedure tells the ESC where neutral, +100% and -100% are. EPA is on the transmitter - it will allow you to reduce the max signal from the radio - so for example, if you set the EPA to 50%, then when you do a 100% trigger pull, the radio tells the ESC or servo to move 50%.

EPA and DR kind of do the same thing, but DR is applied equally to both the + and - directions. EPA allows you to have a different setting for + and -, like 50% throttle, but full brakes.

 

[cbrown81]

The calibration procedure tells the ESC where neutral, +100% and -100% are. EPA is on the transmitter - it will allow you to reduce the max signal from the radio - so for example, if you set the EPA to 50%, then when you do a 100% trigger pull, the radio tells the ESC or servo to move 50%.

EPA and DR kind of do the same thing, but DR is applied equally to both the + and - directions. EPA allows you to have a different setting for + and -, like 50% throttle, but full brakes.

Thanks for that - that's really helpful.

 

[VerticalChallenge]

Glad to see this thread. I recently acquired a 2018 Typhon, my previous 1/8 experience being solely a Nero I purchased 13 mos ago. I was disappointed my Graphene 3S 4,000 mAh batteries wouldn't fit in the battery box, but my 35C 2S 5,000 mAh batteries did. With a point of reference being my Nero running on those batteries. I was a bit underwhelmed by the Typhon's speed too, but I am getting much longer run times.

My concern is the thing sounds like a jet airplane when it gets up to speed... the drivetrain is really loud, much more so than I can ever remember my Nero being. Have other Typhon owners had this experience? The pinion mesh has a sufficient amount of play, so I don't believe that is the issue. Having three or four runs now I am debating if I need to breakdown the diffs to see if there is something going on there. I understand from another thread first diff maintenance is a good time to "shim the diffs", but I am not quite sure what this specifically entails. Any suggestions welcome!

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I've only run 6s a few times, but yeah, when these (Typhon Kraton etc) get up to speed, they do sound different. Jet engine is a good description. Typhon get a bit extra I think due to the straight cut diffs - all truggys have spiral cut diffs.

 

[beefy nugz]

My v1 typhon didn' need it, but my outcast on 6s just didn' have the power I was hoping for. Then I calibrated the transmitter and that brought her to life!!! I just be what you need to do

 

[Big B Speedy]

Hi guys, hoping I can benefit from the collective experience on here - got a question about my new RC.

I've recently bought a v3 Typhon and am currently running it on 6s. My only other experience of RCs has been an FTX Vantage that I've been running on 2S and 3S, so this is the first 1/8-scale car I've run, and the first time I've used as much power as 6S.

My only question so far is that I'm not sure it's as quick as it should be. Don't get me wrong, this should be taken in context: it's still pretty F-ing fast, but it doesn't seem as brutal as I've been led to believe 6S should be.

The car is absolutely stock, and I haven't installed the 16-tooth speed pinion. Should the car be able to wheelie when giving it full throttle? Mine certainly doesn't. Looking at youtube (not always the best place for impartial advice, I know...) it looks like some of them do. Not sure if they're stock though. I was hoping some experienced people on here could give me the benefit of their experience.

The only thing I can think of that might be holding it back is the batteries: I'm running 2x Overlander 4500mAh 55C rated packs. It says in the manual to run 5000mAh 35C packs minimum, so I thought the ones I've got would be plenty - although the mAh rating is less than 5000mAh, I thought the 'C' rating would more than compensate. The basis for my thinking was along the lines of the following:

• The ESC is quoted as 150A
• Therefore the batteries should be able to supply 150A
• That makes sense for Arrma's quoted battery minimum - 5000mAh at 35C would give a current supply capability of 175A
• My batteries, quoted as 4500mAh and 55C should be able to supply c.247A, which should be more than enough

However, when I unwrapped the batteries it states that they're actually 30C rated constantly, with 55C 'burst' rating. So, if they're only 30C, then they can only provide 135A, and that might be holding back the ESC from giving the motor the full beans.

Peoples' thought would be much appreciated - thank you in advance.

These r the two 3S batteries that I am running in my typhon V2 at the same time (6S) only mod is the option
16t pinion gear that came in the kit

 

[TpPartsRcXtreme]

Also make sure you crank up the punch to max on the esc. All can be found in the manual and are super easy.

6s,optional pinion if you have grip..it will wheelie..but stock oil in mid diff should be changed to 100k if you ask me.

Tires..id say Badland look a like from ebay..cheep af,and almost zero balooning..good for sand,gravel and grass etc..