Typhon Typhon Tales

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Sphexish

Very Active Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
362
Reaction score
842
Location
Netherlands
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Outcast 4s
  3. Typhon 3s
Step 1:
Receive large box in mail. Discover that box somehow contains children whereas RC car was expected. Express disappointment.

box_typhon_optimized.gif



Step 2:
Close and carefully reseal box, then return to sender. Await arrival of new shipment.

Step 3:
Receive new box and remove contents. Tent fingers whilst inspecting said contents and murmur "Excellent..."
Optional: drool.

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Step 4:
Deal with inevitable cat-infestation.

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Step 5:
Extricate RC car from unfortunate boxception situation. Allow local expert to inspect both vehicle and controller for technical faults.

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Step 6:
Painstakingly begin fortifying fragile yet ever-so-expensive RC body with Gorilla Tape.
(Protip: do not apply aforementioned tape to hair and/or beard, tempting as this may be)

IMG-20210129-WA0000.jpeg



Step 7:
Obtain first set of components intended to fortify your investment from distant and foreign lands.

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To be continued (once yours truly figures out how the heck to install these things without any instructions whatsoever!)
 
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@Sphexish Nice score, I have to tell you though, I am extremely jealous of your son, they just don't make really cool dinosaur jammies in my size! :ROFLMAO:


@1coopgt The Typhon doesn't really "need" reinforcing but it cant hurt. It has a very low profile and almost no contact points when it tumbles. That is not to say stuff doesn't happen ;)
 
Nice. I just picked up a Typhon also. Is it recommended to re-enforce the inside of the body shell? I'm new to RC cars so this is a learning thing for me .

Probably not as crucial as with other RCs, but -- as Doom! already indicated -- it certainly can't hurt!

After making it roll over and tumble a couple of times, it's become clear that the main contact points are going to be the massive wing in the back and the shock protector caps in the front:

20210214_124337.jpg



As such, the first entry in my nascent inventory of spare parts was this bag'o'goodies, which contains two new caps for the front:

20210214_130101.jpg



Although I'm probably also going to be ordering this set (AR330492) originally intended for the Typhon 6S, just to see if they fit:

arac8965_a0__1___82333.jpg


Addendum 15-03-2021: ordered a set of these.
Spoiler alert: they don't fit. Like, at all.
Do not buy for Typhon 3S no matter what online shops might suggest!


Nice score, I have to tell you though, I am extremely jealous of your son, they just don't make really cool dinosaur jammies in my size! :ROFLMAO:

Alas! I too rue the day my size became such that t-rex patterned jammies officially became a thing of the past...

Fortunately, we do have cooler toys to play with.
 
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Step 8:
After discovering (an hour in) that Gorilla Tape tears much more easily lengthwise and is much easier to smooth down when slightly heated, finally put an end to your ill-advised and nigh-obsessive-compulsive quest to cover every last nook and/or cranny of the Typhon's annoyingly-shaped body.

20210214_125635.jpg



Step 9:
Go for the easier mod first to build up your confidence a bit, before tackling the ones without instructions and more potential for catastrophic failure.

Behold! The Arrma Granite Wheelie Bar Set (AR320403)!

20210214_124354.jpg


Thought process here is: the rear wing takes a beating whenever the front wheels lift on high-traction surfaces, so hopefully this will help protect it a bit.
Additional "thought" process: wheelies are awesome dude lololololol.
 
Step 10:
Feel really smart when you figure out how to install the T-Bone Racing Basher Front Bumper without much mishap.

The longer hardware they included seems like really good quality, and it's pretty sweet that they even included a little metal spacer to fill up the hole where the smaller of the two screws normally sits more deeply sunken into the chassis.

20210214_124329.jpg



Step 11:
Feel like an absolute idiot when you realize that, in your unbridled enthusiasm, you forgot the included 'Hinge Pin Cover' (previously known as 'That Mysterious Aluminum Angle Thingie').


Step 12:
Take everything off again. Install aforementioned cover along with the bumper. Realize it's kind of an eyesore, in all of its naked aluminum-y shininess.


Step 13:
Gorilla Tape. Lot less conspicuous now.

20210214_124322.jpg
 
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Step 14:
T-Bone Racing Chassis Skid time!

Flip the car over onto its back and undo the six screws at the bottom of the chassis that need to be replaced with longer ones. Freeze in horror when you hear something fall off and clatter against the body shell the moment you undo the very first deeply sunken screw at the back end.


Step 15:
Panic.


Step 16:
Swiftly inspect what you have wrought, only to discover that it's only a small Arrma-logo-emblazoned bracket piece in the battery tray that came loose:

20210214_125344.jpg



Step 17:
Breathe sigh of relief; wipe sweat off brow.


Step 18:
Undo the remainder of the screws without much incident.


Step 19:
First order of business - figuring out where the metal spacers we got with this piece of kit go. We've got two short ones and two longer ones. A quick test-fit reveal the short versions fit nice and flushly in gaps left by the slightly sunken outer screws at the front of the body, whereas one of the longer spacers is clearly intended for the deeply sunken screw that has to go all the way up into the little battery bracket. This does, however, leave one long spacer unused...


Step 20:
Worry a bit that this enigmatic left-over spacer is going to be like those "left-over", "non-essential" pieces you were left with after putting together that piece of Ikea furniture last year, but ultimately brush it off.


Step 21:
Second order of business - figuring out which of the included screws goes where. This turns out to actually be pretty straightforward: the thicker screw with the 2.5mm hex goes in the center, the three long 2.0mm hex screws go in the holes that needed spacers, and the two medium-length 2.0mm hex screws go in the center two holes at the front without spacers.


Step 22:
Feel smug. We've got this in the bag, baby!


Step 23:
Realize that there is still a tiny, seventh screw in the little baggy that came with the skid plate, along with a very small nut.


Step 24:
Realize that, although there is a hole in the Typhon chassis where the remaining screw for the skid plate is supposed to go, there was originally no screw in there from the factory.


Step 25:
Flip the car back over to check where the heck this hole is even supposed to be situated, and discover that it is RIGHT next to the motor, hidden away underneath all the wires coming from it.


Step 26:
Foolishly decide to remove the entire power module to make this extremely narrow space easier to get to, like a total nincompoop.


Step 27:
Undo all the wires, collapse and remove the center driveshaft, pop out the red bit that secures one of the battery straps, then fiddle with the clip to slide out the power module until you finally get it to move, like the moron you are.


Step 28:
Easily line up and tighten the miniscule nut onto the screw using a 5.5mm hex nut driver.


Step 29:
Attempt to slide the power module back in, only to finally realize the true depths of your folly -- this little scew and nut combo is actually located right in front of the slot where the power module is supposed to slide into, making it impossible to either remove or insert it when they are present.


Step 30:
Curse profusely.


Step 31:
Curse some more, then take out the stupid little nut and screw, slide the power module back in, hook everything back up, and subsequently spend the next ten minutes trying to muster the zen-like patience needed to actually get that microscopic nut aligned over top of the hole, right side up, with very little wiggle room to speak of.


Step 32:
Finally, it's in! Halleluyah!

20210214_125421.jpg


(Behold, the bane of my existence...)


Step 33:
Lookin' pretty snazzy!

20210214_125311.jpg


Not sure why the way those corners are shaped at the front of the skid plate don't really line up with the lines in the chassis, though. Differences between the various versions of the 3S Typhon, maybe?


Step 34:
Admire the fruit of thine labors for a hot second, then wait for additional parts to arrive.

20210214_130516.jpg
 
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You know, I really enjoyed the way you wrote this and I could actually stand to read it unlike a lot of other things.(y)
 
Nice to know I'm not the only one who spends more time undoing what I just did, than l would like to admit. I guess these things don't come with instructions because we are guys and don't read them anyhow. :unsure:
 
You know, I really enjoyed the way you wrote this and I could actually stand to read it unlike a lot of other things.(y)

Haha, thanks dude. I try to keep it mildly entertaining. Tried to write seriously at first, but quickly realized that it was going to be a clown show either way. :clown:


Nice to know I'm not the only one who spends more time undoing what I just did, than l would like to admit. I guess these things don't come with instructions because we are guys and don't read them anyhow. :unsure:

Yeah, I figured I'd chronicle my dumb mistakes as well, if only to maybe keep others from repeating them.
(Spoiler alert: there's going to be a LOT of dumb mistakes.)

As for reading instructions... Maybe I'm the exception there. I'm a programmer by heart and trade, so I've been told to RTFM by colleagues enough times over the years that it's kind of become second nature.
 
Step 35:
Go to your local vendor of fine hosiery and inquire about the largest available size of affordable panty hose. Explain that the material should be very stretchy, so as to fit over the body (particularly since there's usually stuff sticking out), but should also be breathable enough to keep things from overheating during extreme conditions. Be sure to remind them that you aren't buying these for yourself.


Step 36:
Cut off the required length from the leg part and stretch over the chassis.

20210210_094422.jpg


20210210_094405.jpg


20210210_094436.jpg



Step 37:
Decide that, with the low-profile chassis and low body mount posts of the Typhon 3S, this plan doesn't seem like it's working out too well. The fabric looks like it isn't being lifted up enough, remaining too tightly wrapped around the fans, heatsink, motor and ESC.


Step 38:
Attempt to fix it with scissors, rolls of velcro tape, hot glue, and a positive, "can-do" attitude!

I mean, really -- how hard could it be?


Season 3 Waiting GIF by SpongeBob SquarePants



Step 39:
Order a Dusty Motors Universal L cover online.
 
Great Idea....danged physics. Do you think you could make supports out of a wire coat hanger? Looked like it was off to a good start. Or is there just not enough room period?
 
Great Idea....danged physics. Do you think you could make supports out of a wire coat hanger? Looked like it was off to a good start. Or is there just not enough room period?

I think you could probably figure something out, yeah. The material just needs to be stretched out more to create more breathing room and keep the material away from potential melty bits. But after fiddling with it a bit I decided to just go with a more professionally-made solution.

Because I'm super lazy very demanding.
 
Step 35:
Go to your local vendor of fine hosiery and inquire about the largest available size of affordable panty hose. Explain that the material should be very stretchy, so as to fit over the body (particularly since there's usually stuff sticking out), but should also be breathable enough to keep things from overheating during extreme conditions. Be sure to remind them that you aren't buying these for yourself.


Step 36:
Cut off the required length from the leg part and stretch over the chassis.

20210210_094422.jpg


20210210_094405.jpg


20210210_094436.jpg



Step 37:
Decide that, with the low-profile chassis and low body mount posts of the Typhon 3S, this plan doesn't seem like it's working out too well. The fabric looks like it isn't being lifted up enough, remaining too tightly wrapped around the fans, heatsink, motor and ESC.


Step 38:
Attempt to fix it with scissors, rolls of velcro tape, hot glue, and a positive, "can-do" attitude!

I mean, really -- how hard could it be?


Season 3 Waiting GIF by SpongeBob SquarePants



Step 39:
Order a Dusty Motors Universal L cover online.
You just had to say step 35 like that. I don't know if I should be laughing or shaking my head at your dirty joke.
 
Step 40:
Cut included velcro tape into approximately 49.2 million little sections to accomodate all the annoying little extrusions molded into the sides of the Typhon chassis, then install Dusty Motors cover.

20210224_171722.jpg


Step 41:
Say this:

germany something GIF

(This is mandatory.)


Step 42:
With cars (as well as when selecting life partners), always make sure to check that the backside is in order.
Both with- and without cover.

20210224_171815.jpg

(I like that it effectively covers those exposed motor wires back there. Seeing those getting covered in snow didn't sit well with me.)


Step 43:

Get thick envelope in the mail.


Step 44:
Prevent cat from mauling said envelope.


Step 45:

20210224_181433.jpg



Step 46:

mother of god shades GIF

(Thank you, Jenny RC!)
 
Step 47:
Discover that the long sleeves of extra material that were also crammed into the little cardboard cylinder your Dusty Motors cover came in are actually supposed to be shock covers, as opposed to a set of cat stockings.


Step 48:
Reclaim said sleeves from disgruntled-looking cat.


Step 49:
Attempt to fit. It works, you guess? (Although the compression of the spring makes the fit look less neat than it was on the uncompressed spring...)

IMG-20210225-WA0000.jpeg



Step 50:
Put socks on all your fancy new shocks.

20210225_231227.jpg



Step 51:
Suddenly realize that these Typhon 6s shocks already had rubber 'boots' on them... And that you just pulled your 'socks' over your 'boots'...

Ah well.


Step 52:
La pièce de résistance!

20210225_231429.jpg



Step 53:
Wonder why your T-Bone Racing stuff didn't come with some free stickers to put on your RC.


Now to wait until the bushings and washers I'm going to need to actually install these shocks arrive...
 
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Step 47:
Discover that the long sleeves of extra material that were also crammed into the little cardboard cylinder your Dusty Motors cover came in are actually supposed to be shock covers, as opposed to a set of cat stockings.


Step 48:
Reclaim said sleeves from disgrunted-looking cat.


Step 49:
Attempt to fit. It works, you guess? (Although the compression of the spring makes the fit look less neat than it was on the uncompressed spring...)

IMG-20210225-WA0000.jpeg



Step 50:
Put socks on all your fancy new shocks.

20210225_231227.jpg



Step 51:
Suddenly realize that these Typhon 6s shocks already had rubber 'boots' on them... And that you just pulled your 'socks' over your 'boots'...

Ah well.


Step 52:
La pièce de résistance!

20210225_231429.jpg



Step 53:
Wonder why your T-Bone Racing stuff didn't come with some free stickers to put on your RC.


Now to wait until the bushings and washers I'm going to need to actually install these shocks arrive...
I really love the way you write it all out. Keep it up!
 
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