Kraton Best Motor, Electronics Combo For Kraton 6s EXB

[Don Pots]

Both the 1717 and 1520 cans are 1650kV. The difference is the physical can size.

Also, the difference between a lower kV motor and higher kV motor geared to produce the same final drive ratio on the same cell count is negligible at best, regarding temps.

In regards to hand tools, many of us prefer MIP over most anything else and use lower priced servos, like Amazon servos, in hard basher since in my experience hard bashing will break even expensive servos and I'd rather pay 30 bucks for a replacement. That's all up to your budget at the end of the day though.

Make sure to shim your servo saver or switch to the harder spring otherwise that strong servo will be a waste with much of the power getting lost in the servo saver.

Solid advice on the servo saver. Thanks!

 

[sroy]

Added some more info to the above post

High torque low kv motor with higher gearing does not mean lower temps. It means higher temps. (3 burnt out castle 800kvs can attest to that). It’s always a trade off. I’ve also burnt out 2 castle momba X8s escs in the configuration above. Plus if you bash even a little your castle Esc fan housing will break because it floats on the esc. And the switch will break. Run the above mentioned combo on a 6s car at 19t? Heat will never be an issue. Been there done that. Is it fast geared higher? Hell yea! But let the problems begin. lower the gearing. Go to alza racing and get a new esc fan mount. Hot wire the switch and your good

 

[Don Pots]

High torque low kv motor with higher gearing does not mean lower temps. It means higher temps. (3 burnt out castle 800kvs can attest to that). It’s always a trade off. I’ve also burnt out 2 castle momba X8s escs in the configuration above. Plus if you bash even a little your castle Esc fan housing will break because it floats on the esc. And the switch will break. Run the above mentioned combo on a 6s car at 19t? Heat will never be an issue. Been there done that. Is it fast geared higher? Hell yea! But let the problems begin. lower the gearing. Go to alza racing and get a new esc fan mount. Hot wire the switch and your good

The comparison was between a higher KV motor and a lower KV motor with high gearing. The lower KV motor combo theoretically should produce less heat. For example a 2000 KV motor with a 20 tooth versus a 1650KV motor with a 20 tooth.

My combo is the 1520 motor with a 20 tooth pinion on the mamba X8s. This back and forth in this thread was the debate over if there is less heat on a 1520 vs 1717 with a 20tooth. I say yes but can't compare because I don't have a 1717 and a heat gun. It's all theory. In the end it goes like a rocket and I can hand touch test the motor without getting burned after burning through a 6s lipo going balls out. Which includes 15' jumps and not always landing them. Granted the truck is relatively new so who knows?

 

[rook13pdx]

Dude I’m sold. Now that I’m not bashing the tar out of my notorious in ten minutes, I’m t-cutting out all the time with both fans ripping, no body in 60 degree weather! And…. This would officially place my Notorious in near complete aftermarket parts - chassis to body, bumper to bumper. Got to be a shameful award of some type for that feat.

 

[Don Pots]

Considering Admin set that rule due to Spamming, I doubt they will change it...



Do you want an Actual 120C rating (that is, a True, Continuous 816 amp output capacity), or a sticker that says "Actual 120C!!1! OMGBBQ!!" Cuz lots of brands have 120c, 150c, 200c or whatever printed on the label. But actual load testing shows they are all a lie, as the BEST hobby grade lipos are around 55c (last time I checked, anyway)

Bedtime reading -
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1767093-Battery-Load-Test-Comparisons

But, overall, nice pricing breakdown on a great truck! Shows what it takes to get into the hobby with a OP setup. I have been eyeing that motor myself for my Outcast.

What does OP setup mean?

Both the 1717 and 1520 cans are 1650kV. The difference is the physical can size.

Also, the difference between a lower kV motor and higher kV motor geared to produce the same final drive ratio on the same cell count is negligible at best, regarding temps.

In regards to hand tools, many of us prefer MIP over most anything else and use lower priced servos, like Amazon servos, in hard basher since in my experience hard bashing will break even expensive servos and I'd rather pay 30 bucks for a replacement. That's all up to your budget at the end of the day though.

Make sure to shim your servo saver or switch to the harder spring otherwise that strong servo will be a waste with much of the power getting lost in the servo saver.

The EXB already comes with the harder spring FYI.

 

[arrma only fans]

Nah, xlx2 and 1717 1650kv

 

[Jerry-rigged]

What does OP setup mean?

Over-Powered.

 

[Don Pots]

Over-Powered.

Ahh I guess thats all relative. Anything over the RTR I assume is overpowered? Or when you start breaking things because of the power?

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Ahh I guess thats all relative. Anything over the RTR I assume is overpowered? Or when you start breaking things because of the power?

LOL, yes, it is all relative. To me OP is more power than you use. The RTR BLX185 system on 6s is overpowered for track running, but great for Bashing.

When Arrma first released the 6s line, 6s in a RTR was very rare, and lots of people were calling the Kraton overpowered. Then in the V2, Arrma gave it more power... LOL. (The v1 motor was a 4068 2050kv, the v2 swapped to the black 4074 2050kv) Now lots of 1/8 RTR's are 6s ready, so what was Over Powered a few years ago is now normal.

 

[Don Pots]

LOL, yes, it is all relative. To me OP is more power than you use. The RTR BLX185 system on 6s is overpowered for track running, but great for Bashing.

When Arrma first released the 6s line, 6s in a RTR was very rare, and lots of people were calling the Kraton overpowered. Then in the V2, Arrma gave it more power... LOL. (The v1 motor was a 4068 2050kv, the v2 swapped to the black 4074 2050kv) Now lots of 1/8 RTR's are 6s ready, so what was Over Powered a few years ago is now normal.

To me overpowered is when it's no longer fun because you can't drive it properly. Or when the gearing can't handle the power because it wasn't built for it. Or the electrical system shuts down because of heat. But this Kraton will take a lot and send a lot. So bring it on Arrma. You can't take your money with you

 

[rook13pdx]

Found this thread, needed all this stuff, pulled the trigger. Now just waiting painfully long days until the ECU programming kit to arrive so that I can reverse the motor direction... .

I can turn the transmitter TX direction, and even in forward (reverse) it goes pretty fast. I hit the receiver reverse which should be stop and it flips the truck! LOL. Funny and crappy all at the same time... SO want to get this thing outside!!!

 

[Don Pots]

View attachment 176399Found this thread, needed all this stuff, pulled the trigger. Now just waiting painfully long days until the ECU programming kit to arrive so that I can reverse the motor direction... .

I can turn the transmitter TX direction, and even in forward (reverse) it goes pretty fast. I hit the receiver reverse which should be stop and it flips the truck! LOL. Funny and crappy all at the same time... SO want to get this thing outside!!!

Looking good! This combo is beast for sure. As for the ESC programming I am also waiting on the B-Link but was able to do most of it using the audible beeps with my DX5C Spectrum Radio. The Mamba card will tell you how to do it. Don't reverse motor direction using transmitter preferences. If you haven't programmed ESC delete all your car settings and start with syncing receiver forward and reverse to ESC then follow along with the beep programming in the card that comes with the mamba8xs or use their PDF. I'm pretty dialed in except for other things like power curve delivery etc which I will when the B Link gets here.

 

[rook13pdx]

I did that, didn't work, I need the programming cable. It started backwards, went through the ECU beep programming and got it to go forward with a forward trigger but it's "forward in reverse" at 50%, and reverse is 100%. Tried all combinations of the transmitter reversed, reprogrammed the ECU with beep reprogramming, etc, same thing. I just need the cable to plug it to software and reverse the motor.

 

[Don Pots]

You also need to rebind after any reverse or forward changes. I would set it back to default. Rebind making sure you fully sync Transmitter trigger so it knows full forward and full reverse. That was step 1. Then restarting ESC and going through beep menus. Mine worked. Yours should work. Same system.
Actually upgrading rear diff with a M2C Racing hinge pin kit as I write this lol.

 

[rook13pdx]

You also need to rebind after any reverse or forward changes... Mine worked. Yours should work. Same system.

Yeah tried that. Yeah it's the same system, would make sense it worked but nothing ever really does. I'm not worried about it, the capability is there in the software - already watched video's on that, just need it to get here. I'm sure it'll be fine. The components seem legit. Servo seems really strong. I'll probably really trim that down since I've got large tires and have burned out a couple here lately - it'd be nice if one of these lasts, seems like this one has a good chance of that.

M2C stuff is legit. I like the Hot Racing stuff too though...

 

[Spoc85]

Looking good! This combo is beast for sure. As for the ESC programming I am also waiting on the B-Link but was able to do most of it using the audible beeps with my DX5C Spectrum Radio. The Mamba card will tell you how to do it. Don't reverse motor direction using transmitter preferences. If you haven't programmed ESC delete all your car settings and start with syncing receiver forward and reverse to ESC then follow along with the beep programming in the card that comes with the mamba8xs or use their PDF. I'm pretty dialed in except for other things like power curve delivery etc which I will when the B Link gets her

You’re laughin only paying $11 for a B Link. $100AUS I had to pay.

Yeah tried that. Yeah it's the same system, would make sense it worked but nothing ever really does. I'm not worried about it, the capability is there in the software - already watched video's on that, just need it to get here. I'm sure it'll be fine. The components seem legit. Servo seems really strong. I'll probably really trim that down since I've got large tires and have burned out a couple here lately - it'd be nice if one of these lasts, seems like this one has a good chance of that.

M2C stuff is legit. I like the Hot Racing stuff too though...

No need for the B link. Did you swap 2 phases on the motor?

 

[sebcbien]

the motor seems sensored (I can see the cable) so swapping phases won't work here.

 

[Spoc85]

I ran uncensored with a rocket motor…… happy days. Hooked up the sensored cable and everything was out of whack. I had to swap 2 phases over, I swapped the rotation within the ESC using the TX and I also had to reverse the throttle on the transmitter.
The phase rotation may be correct in @rook13pdx case as it’s a Castle motor so he might just have to reverse the throttle on the Transmitter.

 

[rook13pdx]

You’re laughin only paying $11 for a B Link. $100AUS I had to pay.

No need for the B link. Did you swap 2 phases on the motor?

There is actually a coupon for a free B Link in the box.

I'm cool with this hobby in general after about a year or so. Building the thing up, bashing it, building it up again. Can't complain about anything. Aside from general parts availability and shipping times, it's much better than other hobbies like ownership of a 20 year old German car, Parts had another zero or two tacked on for any breakage on that thing. No complaints at all with the ARRMA.

 

[Dan B.]

Quality is expensive. Performance is expensive. The choices I made were about how these products work as a whole. Not really talking about a Traxxas tool kit but in a way I am. The hours of research that went into picking these components was not an accident. Numbers were compared and reviews watched and real world use was considered. So I’m open to doing something better and more cost effective but when people drop comments without leaving a solution or not illustrating how a particular product isnt worth it without offering an alternative it just sounds like noise. I see this all the time in these forums.

When I said go MIP instead of dropping $70.00 on a Traxxas toolkit it was based on personal experience. Yes, you get every size of pretty much everything you need with the Traxxas kit, but the hex drivers (which is what you really need and use 94% of the time) stripped out socket head hexes and the tools rounded off faster that some of the el-cheapo sets I’ve bought. Very disappointing, when you can get the four sizes you need in MIP for less money, and MIP hex drivers are vastly superior. I’m surprised your research didn’t turn up this very common criticism with the Traxxas set, or with the overwhelming support of both noobs and pros for the MIP stuff. It seems like one of the few things most people on the forums actually agree on. So yes, I offered a much better alternative to the Traxxas set, so I think my response is somewhat mischaracterized as “noise.” And not to be rude, but if you list what your choices were, what you purchased, and then actually ask for opinions on them then you will certainly get them. Everyone has opinions, and many are very happy to share them. If you receive these opinions (after asking for them) and then just argue that your extensive research contradicts the answer, what’s the point? There are some super knowledgeable people here who can offer solutions and suggestions that may not have occurred to you. You should entertain some of these responses, and start your research again when necessary. I hope you enjoy this forum and the knowledge that many here share. It’s a great place.