Arrma doesn't sell Decal sheets separately for any of their bodies. They want you to only decal their own bodies along with a purchased clear one.
Try using generic decals found all over. Wraps may work also. Reflector tape cut as desired may even work.
Most importantly I would make sure that your bodies plastic can adhere with stickers and decals in the first place. Test it out first. I have a PL Brute Armor body and the white PTE plastic is petroleum based and absolutely doesn't like decal adhesive or paint. Just wont stay put. Peels too easily.
Ask me how I know. I spent much time cleaning and scrubbing using alcohol etc and my decals and custom graphics didn't last. Waste of my time. It will peel from just sitting on the shelf. Seriously. Double check your body. It may be a PTE based plastic. Food for thought.
Some have tried heating the plastic with a heat gun etc. to change the plastics properties. I don't know that it works well enough though.?
I just let my body decals peel off and bash it hard. Its not a Lexan type shelf body. Its made for pounding and scratches, if that makes sense.
A small roll of cheap stuff would be worth a try I think. I've used some eBay stuff before to wrap some stuff on my car and it's pretty tacky stuff. Normally it's hard to work with for just 1 guy but that's for full sized car applications, for small pieces of a few inches I bet it would be cake ?
Consider clear coating and the decals might adhere better.
I check these out, thanks for the links!!
Real nice job. Those DT wheels look nice.
Good to know, thank you!
Yea i really like the way the wheels and tires look. They are pretty close in size to the deboots, tiny bit smaller. If i decided to use em, I’m gonna try and find a matching pair. I want them for dirt use and I’ll use the stock tires for street bashing ?Real nice job. Those DT wheels look nice.
If they are the same diameter or close enough as the the rears, all is good. If they are considerably bigger or even smaller (rollout wise), technically you will be "underdriving" or "overdriving" your front axel relative to the rear axel. Keep an on eye on your slipper clutch and F/R diff ring/input gears. Loose dirt driving may not pose much of an issue. But on high bite like asphalt or cement, wear may increase in these areas.( Tire wear including)
Overdriving the front wheels or underdriving the rear on a Crawler has an advantage and is common to do and done by changing out one F/R diff ring gear(same result as altering the tire rollout) , but they are slow moving and can handle a bit more stress to the drivetrain. Just some ideas.
edit: Just to clarify...overdriving the front axel will pull the rig. Underdriving the front is something to avoid. I would keep the positions of the tires where it will overdrive the front axel if anything. All depends on the diameter difference of the old pair vs the DT tires and which is is larger.
Again if there is little difference of say 5mm or less, all this doesn't matter much. Because inevitable tire ballooning takes over.
I will look for them. I think they are an older tread pattern. Duratrax has a ton of different tires out for monster trucks currently. The hatchet MT looks good too ??.IF you decide to use the 2 DT's and they are smaller, they would be better served on the rear axel IMHO.
If the diameter difference is so minute, then it may not matter. Put them where they will give the best ride and handling traction wise. Those DT are sweet. Try to get a second pair. You peaked my interest in those DT's. I like DT stuff. I have DT Truggy X-cons for my TeknoMT. They are pretty durable for Pin tires.
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