Underbody Tape from Factory

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JustAnOutcast

compulsive over-thinker, I think. 🤔
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Just got my new Outcast 6s EXB a few days ago and noticed “protective tape” on the underbody in what I’m guessing are high stress areas. Seems like a novel idea. Will it really help protect these areas from damage?

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To some limited extent, will just keep the paint work from rubbing off in these high stress areas. Won't prevent breakage however.
Still a nice touch that Arrma has been using for quite some years now.
 
The Outcast bodies are very think material. Makes the bodies very durable. Maybe one, if not the best out of factory bodies. The Outcast body has been seen locally on a few Tekno MT 410 builds. Makes a great body for the MT. Kind of like the old Timex watch commercial, takes a licking and keeps on ticking.
 
To some limited extent, will just keep the paint work from rubbing off in these high stress areas. Won't prevent breakage however.
Still a nice touch that Arrma has been using for quite some years now.
Being my first Arrma truck, I’m seeing quite a few of these type of “nice touches”.
 
Yeah, the Noto and OC bodies are so thick. They take a beating. How ironic the Kraton body is so thin. It will crack if you sneeze at it. Gave up on the whole Drywall tape/Shoogoo thing. A waste of time and $$. Better to just buy another stocker body . Or pay $80 for the PL unbreakable.
Still have the original Noto body, yet I'm on my 4th Kraton body. And the 4th sits as a shelf body unused. I just decided to use the PL Bash Armor body for my 6s Kraton. Plug and play. But ony comes in solid white PET plastic. And it's not paintable. The PL body will not break. At least for me has not yet with much mileage on it. Not the prettiest body, but for hard bashing I don't care. The PL body is so thick and rigid that it protects the front tower and shock standoffs well.
I have a spare Noto body brand new in the package. Never used for several years. I might just use this on my MT410. A very close fit. And the MT comes with various extra Body mounts to do this. I will probably spray paint the ouside of this Blue Noto body. Am so tired of the color now. Same Blue color as my Lim. Tired of looking at that also..
 
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The Outcast bodies are very think material. Makes the bodies very durable. Maybe one, if not the best out of factory bodies. The Outcast body has been seen locally on a few Tekno MT 410 builds. Makes a great body for the MT. Kind of like the old Timex watch commercial, takes a licking and keeps on ticking.
Glad to know it’s a tough body. I’m sure mine will get plenty of abuse. 🤕
FWIW, I’ve measured the thickness of the Outcast body at between .025” - .030”, whereas the Stampede body is about .015”. The thicknesses seemed to vary slightly based on how I held the calipers…
 
Glad to know it’s a tough body. I’m sure mine will get plenty of abuse. 🤕
FWIW, I’ve measured the thickness of the Outcast body at between .025” - .030”, whereas the Stampede body is about .015”. The thicknesses seemed to vary slightly based on how I held the calipers…
The only area I advise strengthening will be the rear behind the body posts. The rear edge can split with rear end carnage from the rear wing. From driver error.
I tried a thick Zip tie and Hot Glue and then Shoogooed the whole rest of it in the edge's crease along the rear inner edge of the Noto body and this helps IMO. But otherwise, the Noto body is strong. Did the same on the Kraton body. Still cracked anyway. 6s Kraton body is as thin as a 1/10 scale body.(n)
 
The only area I advise strengthening will be the rear behind the body posts. The rear edge can split with rear end carnage from the rear wing. From driver error.
I tried a thick Zip tie and Hot Glue and then Shoogooed the whole rest of it in the edge's crease along the rear inner edge of the Noto body and this helps IMO. But otherwise, the Noto body is strong. Did the same on the Kraton body. Still cracked anyway. 6s Kraton body is as thin as a 1/10 scale body.(n)
Ok, so I need to ShoeGoo/DT the body area around the wing. Thanks for the tip! (y)
 
Give that above a try.

But simply using A thick zip tie along the inner edge's crease (cutting off the end), Hot glued first, then the rest ShooGooed over it, will work. D-wall tape won't really help IMHO. Been there. But many still do this. What works for you in the end I guess.:cool:
I feel once the body splits cracks at the rear edge crease, the body continues to crack. I usually just add Gorilla tape as it cracks to patch it up.
I might use G Tape on the body post holes and most importantly above the front Shock tower where the body will hit. Adding more layers there. This area can get damaged if you land on your lid/nose alot. Again Driver Error and skill determines the best way. Subjectively speaking.
Bodies are just RC consumable items. I just G-Tape them up as needed. And keep bashing till the body is literally in pieces and wont stay on.:cool:
 
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Give that above a try.

But simply using A thick zip tie along the inner edge's crease (cutting off the end), Hot glued first, then the rest ShooGooed over it, will work. D-wall tape won't really help IMHO. Been there. But many still do this. What works for you in the end I guess.:cool:
I feel once the body splits cracks at the rear edge crease, the body continues to crack. I usually just add Gorilla tape as it cracks to patch it up.
I might use G Tape on the body post holes and most importantly above the front Shock tower where the body will hit. Adding more layers there. This area can get damaged if you land on your lid/nose alot. Again Driver Error and skill determines the best way. Subjectively speaking.
Bodies are just RC consumable items. I just G-Tape them up as needed. And keep bashing till the body is literally in pieces and wont stay on.:cool:
Got it. Hot glue a zip tie at rear crease area (around wing) then ShoeGoo the rest of the area. Thanks again. Any chance you could post a pic?
 
And buy Gorilla Tape to have on hand. A must have with RC's. G tape is second to none.
If you heat it up with a heat gun or blow dryer and press in place hard, it stays put better. Clean area first. A given.
 
Personally, most folks don't believe me when I show them my Senton 6s body and explain its the ONLY one I ever had and it's went full throttle into several curbs, full throttle into a Kraton, survived a lipo fire undamaged, and most importantly, survived someone who drives it like a drunken basher just off a week long drug binge.
PL Premium and concreteboard mesh tape!
 
Sounds like a tank! Bet it would break somebody’s ankle if it slammed into it.
 
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