Upgrade Mega/BLS plastic transmission to BLX metal

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When rebuilding the metal gear box, i noticed two washers on either side of the idler gear (the center gear). Following the blx exploded view, these are not show in the assembly. However when i install them, they keep the idler gear planted in the housing and stops it from moving side to side. Did you guys install these or no?
 
When rebuilding the metal gear box, i noticed two washers on either side of the idler gear (the center gear). Following the blx exploded view, these are not show in the assembly. However when i install them, they keep the idler gear planted in the housing and stops it from moving side to side. Did you guys install these or no?

I just completed the Mega upgrade to metal rear diff per this thread. I had the washers in upon re-assembly, when I look at both manuals, I see them in there.
 
I just completed the Mega upgrade to metal rear diff per this thread. I had the washers in upon re-assembly, when I look at both manuals, I see them in there.
Yeah, I guess the pdf version Im going by is outdated. Its a good thing, already reassembled with stainless screws and didnt feel like backing them out again lol. All in all it just made sense not to have that gear moving side to side. Again, ty for the reply.
 
Hi guys. I am trying to clean the bearings on my input shaft gear and can't figure out how to get the locking pin out. I'm assuming that the only way to get to the bearings is everything has to come off from that side. Any ideas?
 
Hi

If you have the tranny case open all you should have too do is pull the input shaft gear off and remove the retaining pin and then you can pull the input shaft out.
 
Hi

If you have the tranny case open all you should have too do is pull the input shaft gear off and remove the retaining pin and then you can pull the input shaft out.

Figured it out. Used a vice to slide the gear down which released the pin. Thank you for the assistance.
 
OK just took it apart again. It was the input shaft gear. The pin spun around the inside of the plastic gear. The pic of the shaft with pin and gear. It's the messed up teeth is from me taking it off because it was stuck on. But on the inside you can see the groove where the pin just spun around. Shame they put the plastic input gear. Seems that takes a large part of the stress.

I'll update on the metal gears and whether or not I need the gearbox, motor mount and shorter input shaft ThanksView attachment 6571 View attachment 6572

Hi Slyhall,

I just ran into the same issue where the input shaft ripped through the plastic Input shaft gear. Looking to do an upgrade to metal gears, did you manage to get it working with the metal gear set and our composite gearbox casing? Would love to hear your feedback.

Thanks!
 
Hi Slyhall,

I just ran into the same issue where the input shaft ripped through the plastic Input shaft gear. Looking to do an upgrade to metal gears, did you manage to get it working with the metal gear set and our composite gearbox casing? Would love to hear your feedback.

Thanks!
Sorry for the late reply, I had ordered the metal input shaft gear too. Put that on, set my punch to 2 now and adjusted my slipper. It's still running great so I have not even tried the metal gears yet.

Looks like this guy did it but there are more parts needed. GL

https://arrmaforum.com/threads/raider-xl-blx-build-log.3299/
 
Does anybody have any experience with different diff fluids and how they change the driving characteristics? I will be changing from the plastic to metal in the next week or so and was just curious how to decide which fluid to use for my style driving/bashing.
Im running 10k which is way to thin for what i do. I run my granite on mostly dirt and im about to switch to either 50k or even 100k diff fluid. I hope this helps. Its all an experimental process. Im also thinking of running thicker shock oil too. Do you have any recomendations towards that. Im running 40wt now in all four corners.
 
Hi all,

I've done quite a few upgrades to my Raider XL. I did the "Bulletproof diff" using the four planetary gears and have no issues now runs great. With the metal diff upgrade I seem to run much faster on 2s and hotter. Counting the teeth on the plastic vs Metal gearing, they are clearly quite different and as well the pitch is different. Admittedly though, I only ran one or two packs on the plastic diff before I upgraded. My question, has anyone found that they had to adjust their pinion gearing after the metal diff upgrade? If so, how many teeth did you drop?. Using a temperature gun I was up around 185 degrees on the ESC after upgrade.

Other forums I have been on for my other trucks have fairly strict rules (losi in particular). If this question should be posted in another thread or a new posting, moderators please let me know. Thanks again

I think I solved my own problem. Gear ratios confirmed to be equivalent between plastic and Metal. I forgot I was running stock tires, and now run larger 2.8. likely the heat issue, and the perception of running faster. I'll leave this post in case anybody had questions about the gear ratio.



Hi all,

I've done quite a few upgrades to my Raider XL. I did the "Bulletproof diff" using the four planetary gears and have no issues now runs great. With the metal diff upgrade I seem to run much faster on 2s and hotter. Counting the teeth on the plastic vs Metal gearing, they are clearly quite different and as well the pitch is different. Admittedly though, I only ran one or two packs on the plastic diff before I upgraded. My question, has anyone found that they had to adjust their pinion gearing after the metal diff upgrade? If so, how many teeth did you drop?. Using a temperature gun I was up around 185 degrees on the ESC after upgrade.

Other forums I have been on for my other trucks have fairly strict rules (losi in particular). If this question should be posted in another thread or a new posting, moderators please let me know. Thanks again
 
Will this upgrade work for the Granite Voltage? I keep breaking output shafts and rounding out the plastic outdrive in less than 3 minutes of runtime on loose dirt. Very frustrating.
 
So you've started with one of the Arrma MEGA or BLS models and now wanting to upgrade to a brushless and LiPo setup for longer runtimes and a much faster vehicle!?

Upgrading Arrma Transmission from plastic to BLX metal



Before doing so it's highly recommended you upgrade your plastic transmission to a metal transmission setup found in the Arrma BLX models as a brushless and LiPo setup is certainly going to put a lot of stress on your gearbox. Here is a list of the parts you're going to need to upgrade your Arrma gearbox to metal:

If you have an older model (before 2014) you'll also need the following parts, otherwise the newer Arrma models already come stock with the below parts:
  • AR310378 - Differential Gear Maintenance Set
  • AR310399 - Gear Differential Outdrive
Have you had any issues with stripping the spur gear. I replaced it and stripped the replacement aswell. I have the 3s big rock
 
Have you had any issues with stripping the spur gear. I replaced it and stripped the replacement aswell. I have the 3s big rock

This thread predates the BRCC by a fair margin. They aren't talking about the same truck.
 
Gotcha well have you heard of any issues with the BLX shaft being slightly bent to cause the spur gear to strip after a couple of uses?
 
Gotcha well have you heard of any issues with the BLX shaft being slightly bent to cause the spur gear to strip after a couple of uses?

The center driveshaft? I'm not sure which shaft you are referring to.
 
I’m referring to the spur gear in the transmission the large gear that runs off of the pinion gear!!
 
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