Typhon Upgrade pinion gear now motor not fitting

[Brian T]

Okay so I installed a new steel helical differential gear and pinion and aluminum differential carrier Case by hot racing, installed it in my upgraded Typhon Mega 550 with the HD 57 T slipper set 0.8 mod and now my motor will not go back onto this car I have been working on it for 8 hours!! Is the hot racing ATF 9337 too long that's the only thing that I can figure somebody please help me before I lose my mind. First pick is without the differential in their it slides right into place second pick is the hot racing upgrade 3rd pick is after I put the differential back in this is how far the motor mount is off 4th pick same I cannot get it on

 

[Brian T]

Only thing I can think to do would be to grind it down 1/8 of an inch to 1/4 of an inch or until it fits any suggestions?

 

[slick2500]

Have you tried spinning the slipper assembly as you slide the module into place? I have to do that on both of my Arrma 3s models in order to get it to go in all the way.

 

[Brian T]

Have you tried spinning the slipper assembly as you slide the module into place? I have to do that on both of my Arrma 3s models in order to get it to go in all the way.

I have tried everything I literally have to spend 8 hours on this thing tone in arrma Typhon 550 but I don't see why the slipper mod would be shorter than the new hot racing mod bud the input gear is quite a bit longer on the new hot racing

I have tried everything I literally have to spend 8 hours on this thing tone in arrma Typhon 550 but I don't see why the slipper mod would be shorter than the new hot racing mod bud the input gear is quite a bit longer on the new hot racing

Oh that makes sense what I just tried to say I think it needs to be ground down like on a belt sander I think it's too long you can see on the 4th picture how much it is off in the bottom right-hand corner

I have tried everything I literally have to spend 8 hours on this thing tone in arrma Typhon 550 but I don't see why the slipper mod would be shorter than the new hot racing mod bud the input gear is quite a bit longer on the new hot racing

Oh that makes sense what I just tried to say I think it needs to be ground down like on a belt sander I think it's too long you can see on the 4th picture how much it is off in the bottom right-hand corner

I also noticed because I changed out both front and rear that the center Drive Shaft is hard as hell to get off from the front also like it is a little bit too long

 

[slick2500]

I have tried everything I literally have to spend 8 hours on this thing tone in arrma Typhon 550 but I don't see why the slipper mod would be shorter than the new hot racing mod bud the input gear is quite a bit longer on the new hot racing

Oh that makes sense what I just tried to say I think it needs to be ground down like on a belt sander I think it's too long you can see on the 4th picture how much it is off in the bottom right-hand corner

I also noticed because I changed out both front and rear that the center Drive Shaft is hard as hell to get off from the front also like it is a little bit too long

Can you compare the old parts to the new ones and see if the are the same length?

My front is a pain to get off as well, I usually end up taking the driveshaft apart then pulling out the front half.

 

[Brian T]

Can you compare the old parts to the new ones and see if the are the same length?

My front is a pain to get off as well, I usually end up taking the driveshaft apart then pulling out the front half.

Yes I put the old one back in there I mean obviously they're two different parts and the motor fits perfectly in there so I'm thinking that the pinion must stick out about an eighth of an inch more because I literally cannot get it on into it, I can feel it bottoming out inside the slipper clutch before it will Mount flush

Yes I put the old one back in there I mean obviously they're two different parts and the motor fits perfectly in there so I'm thinking that the pinion must stick out about an eighth of an inch more because I literally cannot get it on into it, I can feel it bottoming out inside the slipper clutch before it will Mount flush

I mean it is a metal hot racing gear so it shouldn't hurt it by grinding off a little bit that's all I can figure to fix this cuz I'm about to throw $1,500 in the trash LOL

 

[slick2500]

Yes I put the old one back in there I mean obviously they're two different parts and the motor fits perfectly in there so I'm thinking that the pinion must stick out about an eighth of an inch more because I literally cannot get it on into it, I can feel it bottoming out inside the slipper clutch before it will Mount flush

I mean it is a metal hot racing gear so it shouldn't hurt it by grinding off a little bit that's all I can figure to fix this cuz I'm about to throw $1,500 in the trash LOL

Before you start hacking things up, lets make sure that something else isn't messed up and preventing it from going in. Do you have a digital caliper? Measure the total length of the diff assembly from the end of the output to the back of the case with both input gears if they are the same length grinding it down is not going to fix the problem

 

[Brian T]

I can get one but I can see it is a touch longer

I can get one but I can see it is a touch longer. I have the original diff and the motor slides right in. So literally I have tried everything to no avail.

 

[Brian T]

I can get one but I can see it is a touch longer

I'll shoot you a picture here in one second stock first picture upgrade second picture as you can clearly see the hot racing one is a lot longer I used a little allen wrench to show you from the housing to the end of the shaft the difference between the two the last picture

 

[Grimbles]

Hey dude - i found the photo less thread first, but i think your issue is due to the slipper nut on the new 0.8mod assembly.
This little badger:

 

[Brian T]

Hey dude - i found the photo less thread first, but i think your issue is due to the slipper nut on the new 0.8mod assembly.

I guess I am not understanding. There is nothing to move. It is hitting the back wall. Slipper is adjusted perfectly was running 90+ mph before the stock input gear was eaten alive by my mistake while driving. I am lost..

 

[Grimbles]

The new slipper assembly includes that slipper nut. The old one didnt. The HR input diff is designed to work with the old slipper assembly. I reckon you will be fine if you remove that slipper nut i circled above (but you will then need to use the @jondilly1974 method because you wont have the nut anymore).

 

[Brian T]

that is how I adjust it now I don't see a nut anywhere

 

[Grimbles]

I can see the nut in your final photo. You will have to disassemble your slipper, but i am pretty sure this is the issue. Gimme 2 mins (innbed at the moment lol) and ill take a picture of a slipper w/o that nut.

 

[Brian T]

so how will the slipper stay tight if that's pulled out?

so how will the slipper stay tight if that's pulled out?

I mean how will the slipper clutch stay in adjustment

 

[Grimbles]

I mean how will the slipper clutch stay in adjustment

See the @jondilly1974 method

 

[Brian T]

View attachment 112522

See the @jondilly1974 method

So you're saying put Loctite in there? How he does it if I'm understanding this correctly

So you're saying put Loctite in there? How he does it if I'm understanding this correctly

because that is how I set my slipper I just did not realize it was a nut on the back side I'll be darned and thank you so much I will work on that tomorrow and let you know. So if I back out to screw completely will that come out?
I have never take apart this slipper before so I'm not real sure on what I should do

 

[Grimbles]

Here it is in steps:
1) disassemble your slipper module, remove slipper clutch;
2) diaassemble slipper clutxh, remove slipper nut;
3) reassemble both and attach to car - will now fit with longer HR diff input gear;
4) follow the @jondilly1974 method;
5) you only need a drop of loctite and MUST leave for 24 hours. After that, use a qtip to remove any excess otherwise you will loctite the slipper to the input diff. I know from experience.

That slipper assembly came for years without that slipper nut and i have never used it as I have the HR helicals in my typhon too. You can run without the loctite but will have to retighten the slipper periodically.
Let me know dude - fingers crossed this solves

 

[Brian T]

Here it is in steps:
1) disassemble your slipper module, remove slipper clutch;
2) diaassemble slipper clutxh, remove slipper nut;
3) reassemble both and attach to car - will now fit with longer HR diff input gear;
4) follow the @jondilly1974 method;
5) you only need a drop of loctite and MUST leave for 24 hours. After that, use a qtip to remove any excess otherwise you will loctite the slipper to the input diff. I know from experience.

That slipper assembly came for years without that slipper nut and i have never used it as I have the HR helicals in my typhon too. You can run without the loctite but will have to retighten the slipper periodically.
Let me know dude - fingers crossed this solves

Man you are the best it worked like a charm......

 

[Grimbles]

Man you are the best it worked like a charm......

Christmas is saved