Upgrade your hinge pin mount!!

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Peejwk

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Location
Auburn
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 8S
So my whole front end got jacked up and I think its mainly because the plastic hinge pin mount gave out. Of course I bought the rear one and not the front, went for one session and this happend. Anyways I'm waiting for the front mount but found that one of the bolts ripped the threads out the diff case. Anyone have a suggestion for cheap fix? Such as rough up the hole, jb weld, drill and tap new threads, would that work? By the way, upgrade yours hinge mount before this happens to you!! And also look at this beautiful just bash it chassis :)

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You experienced one reason why aluminum arms are not good for bashing. All the force goes into the mount.
Could have been avoided with plastic arms. They look good but are all around a bad idea unless it's a shelf queen.
 
You experienced one reason why aluminum arms are not good for bashing. All the force goes into the mount.
Could have been avoided with plastic arms. They look good but are all around a bad idea unless it's a shelf queen.
Yea I hear ya. I didn't really mean bashing that was the wrong word, This rig is more for high speed fields, small jumps and hills/woops. I I wanted it to be heavier and float over terrain better which is does super well. I got my other cars for the bashin. Haha. Any suggestion though?! I just don't feel likebordering another part (diff case)

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Aluminum arms are a big no go. If you want to keep them I suggest buying a lot of hinge pin blocks and diff housing because it will continue to eat them up.
 
Aluminum arms are a big no go. If you want to keep them I suggest buying a lot of hinge pin blocks and diff housing because it will continue to eat them up.
and a new chassis, diff housing, diff, front shocks, all suspension mounts, drive shaft, and all the sheared screws....yeah there is a reason my rig is called ChassisSnappy and why it now has rpm arms. the first crash was a light bump into a curb and it bent the crap out of everything, the second was a tree and it exploded and sent the diff 30 feet. the aluminum arms just transfer all the force into the chassis and bulkhead assembly and it just destroys it. Another huge no no is the stupid aluminum wing mount, why they make it I do not know but that thing folds in half and destroys towers. Rpm, m2c and JBI all they way I shoulda listened to slick and all the videos saying no to metal arms.
 
I think the OP is really asking about fixing the stripped screws in the gearbox vs replacing it. I'm in the same boat with my outcast and I managed sorta get by for a little bit by taking really small zip ties and cutting the tip off, and putting a little dab of super glue on it and putting it in the hole and glueing it to one edge inside the stripped hole. let it dry and then re-insert screw. You may have to shave down the piece of zip tie depending on the size you got. Basically any strip of flexible plastic might work. It's not permanent, but might get you by for a little bit depending on how hard you bash it.
 
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Hey thanks for an actual answer, not just telling me stuff I already know! Haha yea ill try that. It's one of 6 bolts holding it so I'm not too worried. But if that fails I bought plastic bonding jb weld and I'll drill and tap it. I'm good at fabricating and fixing stuff but repaing plastic is defiantly new for me hah.
 
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