Typhon Upgrading Mega 550 to 4S

AizenSousuke

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Thinking of upgrading my mega V3 to 3-4S and standby for 6S in the near future. Can I just buy a castle 2S-6S capable motor and link it up with the Spektrum ESC that is used in the 6S typhon?

What gear minimally do I need to change?
 
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Thinking of upgrading my mega V3 to 3-4S and standby for 6S in the near future. Can I just buy a castle 2S-6S capable motor and link it up with the Spektrum ESC that is used in the 6S typhon?

What gear minimally do I need to change?
brushless 3s is plenty IMHO. Tons of power. I can get some links for the parts you will need, just a second.

But yes, you can get a 2s-6s capable motor and run it on 4s. I run a 4s motor on 6s and it's fine. I wouldn't recomend it though.
What model is it? Senton, typhon, granite? It doesn't matter too much, but...
Needed:
BLX Slipper clutch
6s Motor (not the best brand, but will last longer if ran on 4s. The heatsink that comes with the motor mount WON'T fit on this motor)
Any 5mm bore, 0.8MOD pinion. 15T pinion for Typhon/granite/bigrock, 20T pinion for Senton

Very Recomended:
Motor Mount
BLX diffs (as the old ones break)
BLX input gears (as the old ones break)

There are more that I can't think of right now. Maybe a BLX center driveshaft.

Jenny's RC is the cheapest place that I know of to get stock parts. I buy from there all the time, it's perfectly safe.
 
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4s is overkill. I have a v2 bigrock and mainly run 4s just for the wheel speed for air control. I rarely hold full throttle on the ground. 3s is plenty and will keep the truck light=less broken parts.
 

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From what I have seen on Youtube, converting the Arrma 3S to 6S is not a good idea.

Plenty of power on 3S. Insane power on 4S. Nearly undriveable on 6S.
I'm just gonna say I have been recently running my bigrock on 6s and so far so good. Its a freaking animal lol. So yeah I think it can be done just have to do it right is all.
4s is overkill. I have a v2 bigrock and mainly run 4s just for the wheel speed for air control. I rarely hold full throttle on the ground. 3s is plenty and will keep the truck light=less broken parts.
I agree with this as well lol. I wanted the power for wheelspin mainly you can still hit crazy speeds on 3s as well.
 

AizenSousuke

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Personal reccoemndation would be to buy the 3s - you'll drive the mega for a bit, then be anxious for more power! This was my experience, anyway!

Also, welcome :)

I made the mistake (decision) to try out the mega because all I would need is 4 AA batteries. A week later(?) I brought the Lipo battery n charger (2S and S1200) lol. I definitely would have bought the 3S from the get-go if I could change the past.

Nevermind looks like I could learn a thing or two upgrading the mega since it (?) came with the brushless-ready gears ;D

brushless 3s is plenty IMHO. Tons of power. I can get some links for the parts you will need, just a second.

But yes, you can get a 2s-6s capable motor and run it on 4s. I run a 4s motor on 6s and it's fine. I wouldn't recomend it though.
What model is it? Senton, typhon, granite? It doesn't matter too much, but...
Needed:
BLX Slipper clutch
6s Motor (not the best brand, but will last longer if ran on 4s. The heatsink that comes with the motor mount WON'T fit on this motor)
Any 5mm bore, 0.8MOD pinion. 15T pinion for Typhon/granite/bigrock, 20T pinion for Senton

Very Recomended:
Motor Mount
BLX diffs (as the old ones break)
BLX input gears (as the old ones break)

There are more that I can't think of right now. Maybe a BLX center driveshaft.

Jenny's RC is the cheapest place that I know of to get stock parts. I buy from there all the time, it's perfectly safe.
thanks man..

for the BLX center driveshaft, I could just use the current one and get that ring thing? I don't see a difference between the current driveshaft and that.

thinking of using castle creation motors though

From what I have seen on Youtube, converting the Arrma 3S to 6S is not a good idea.

Plenty of power on 3S. Insane power on 4S. Nearly undriveable on 6S.

I'm from Mega to 3S-6S capable... if 3S has enough power then I suppose I'll upgrade when the gears can handle it?

I've modded my Mega to run 4s but honestly its a overkill. I run it on 3s and is plenty fast and easier on parts. 2s works well also.

2S works on which motor for 4S?

4s is overkill. I have a v2 bigrock and mainly run 4s just for the wheel speed for air control. I rarely hold full throttle on the ground. 3s is plenty and will keep the truck light=less broken parts.

I will take it into consideration.

I could technically buy a new 3S and use the mega for parts but what's the fun of it ;D

I'm just gonna say I have been recently running my bigrock on 6s and so far so good. Its a freaking animal lol. So yeah I think it can be done just have to do it right is all.

I agree with this as well lol. I wanted the power for wheelspin mainly you can still hit crazy speeds on 3s as well.

I wish the terrain here can be used for a bigrock lol
 

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Or you could jump into a typhon 6s and keep the mega for a fun basher. And then you have lots of options for the 6s rig. I’ve seen people do almost anything with the 6s line of Arrma vehicles. And there’s so many more upgrade possibilities. I wish I skipped my t3s and bought a t6s from the get go. I love the k6s exb and the rest of the 6s+ arrmas
Good luck and enjoy!
 

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I agree with the others, the 4X4 platform does great on 3s, and if it gets too heavy (which it will with 6s) it loses its fun factor. Too much power is real, and too much weight makes it handle like a turd.

Nevermind looks like I could learn a thing or two upgrading the mega since it (?) came with the brushless-ready gears ;D
You will still need the 3s slipper assembly and motor mount.
for the BLX center driveshaft, I could just use the current one and get that ring thing? I don't see a difference between the current driveshaft and that.

thinking of using castle creation motors though
You don't need the center drive shaft. The bearing is important for a Senton (longer driveshaft) but not really needed in the Granite.

As for the motor, I recently picked up the new Castle Copperhead 1412 3200kv combo, but have not got it installed. My Granite needs a new front diff, but I am also in the middle of a home reno project that is sucking up all my time. The motor I have been running is a cheap china 3660 3800kv, and on 3s it makes more power than the Granite can handle. Standing backflips, wheelies at any speed, and it can't find top speed due to wheel ballooning in the mid-40's.
 

AizenSousuke

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Or you could jump into a typhon 6s and keep the mega for a fun basher. And then you have lots of options for the 6s rig. I’ve seen people do almost anything with the 6s line of Arrma vehicles. And there’s so many more upgrade possibilities. I wish I skipped my t3s and bought a t6s from the get go. I love the k6s exb and the rest of the 6s+ arrmas
Good luck and enjoy!

Please don't tempt me :LOL:

I agree with the others, the 4X4 platform does great on 3s, and if it gets too heavy (which it will with 6s) it loses its fun factor. Too much power is real, and too much weight makes it handle like a turd.


You will still need the 3s slipper assembly and motor mount.

You don't need the center drive shaft. The bearing is important for a Senton (longer driveshaft) but not really needed in the Granite.

As for the motor, I recently picked up the new Castle Copperhead 1412 3200kv combo, but have not got it installed. My Granite needs a new front diff, but I am also in the middle of a home reno project that is sucking up all my time. The motor I have been running is a cheap china 3660 3800kv, and on 3s it makes more power than the Granite can handle. Standing backflips, wheelies at any speed, and it can't find top speed due to wheel ballooning in the mid-40's.

6s heavy? I guess I'll most likely go 4S based on the comments here.

Is the motor the goolrc one?

@AizenSousuke I use this...

EZRUN 3652/3660 G2

Nice. I wanted a motor that has temp sensor for use with a spektrum controller.
 
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thanks man..

for the BLX center driveshaft, I could just use the current one and get that ring thing? I don't see a difference between the current driveshaft and that.
Yep! Your right, i'm wrong. Sorry. I thought the red piece that came with the slipper assembly, came with the driveshaft instead. 🤣
 

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6s heavy? I guess I'll most likely go 4S based on the comments here.

Is the motor the goolrc one?
My Granite was too heavy with 4s and the BLX185 combo. And this was with Typhon 6s shocks. When the truck gets heavy, it just is not as fun to drive. I also had a Typhon6s that I cut down to a "Siren" - same wheel base as a Granite. It was 2+lbs heavier than the Granite on 3s, but it handled the weight great, and was a blast to drive. But, I like the 3s Granite better, so the Typhon moved on to another configuration (speed runner currently).

yes, my motor was the GoolRC, but rebranded as Racerstar (Banggood brand) The ESC was not great, but the motor is good.
 

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brushless 3s is plenty IMHO. Tons of power. I can get some links for the parts you will need, just a second.

But yes, you can get a 2s-6s capable motor and run it on 4s. I run a 4s motor on 6s and it's fine. I wouldn't recomend it though.
What model is it? Senton, typhon, granite? It doesn't matter too much, but...
Needed:
BLX Slipper clutch
6s Motor (not the best brand, but will last longer if ran on 4s. The heatsink that comes with the motor mount WON'T fit on this motor)
Any 5mm bore, 0.8MOD pinion. 15T pinion for Typhon/granite/bigrock, 20T pinion for Senton

Very Recomended:
Motor Mount
BLX diffs (as the old ones break)
BLX input gears (as the old ones break)

There are more that I can't think of right now. Maybe a BLX center driveshaft.

Jenny's RC is the cheapest place that I know of to get stock parts. I buy from there all the time, it's perfectly safe.
the v3 has the blx diff's allready and hd input's allready
 
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the v3 has the blx diff's allready and hd input's allready
Oh, I didn't know that. Thanks!
My Granite was too heavy with 4s and the BLX185 combo. And this was with Typhon 6s shocks. When the truck gets heavy, it just is not as fun to drive. I also had a Typhon6s that I cut down to a "Siren" - same wheel base as a Granite. It was 2+lbs heavier than the Granite on 3s, but it handled the weight great, and was a blast to drive. But, I like the 3s Granite better, so the Typhon moved on to another configuration (speed runner currently).

yes, my motor was the GoolRC, but rebranded as Racerstar (Banggood brand) The ESC was not great, but the motor is good.
Yeah, the goolrc motors are pretty good.(so far) I'm running a 4s motor on 6s in my speedrunner and a 2sish motor on 3s in my Redcat Volcano 16(MonsterMax)
 
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AizenSousuke

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My Granite was too heavy with 4s and the BLX185 combo. And this was with Typhon 6s shocks. When the truck gets heavy, it just is not as fun to drive. I also had a Typhon6s that I cut down to a "Siren" - same wheel base as a Granite. It was 2+lbs heavier than the Granite on 3s, but it handled the weight great, and was a blast to drive. But, I like the 3s Granite better, so the Typhon moved on to another configuration (speed runner currently).

yes, my motor was the GoolRC, but rebranded as Racerstar (Banggood brand) The ESC was not great, but the motor is good.
it's possible to mix and match the esc and motors? (as long as the specs matches)

the v3 has the blx diff's allready and hd input's allready
too bad the motor mount doesn't come with the blx version

Oh, I didn't know that. Thanks!

Yeah, the goolrc motors are pretty good.(so far) I'm running a 4s motor on 6s in my speedrunner and a 2sish motor on 3s in my Redcat Volcano 16(MonsterMax)
those are some big wheels lol
 

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it's possible to mix and match the esc and motors? (as long as the specs matches)
Yes. You do need to watch the amp ratings of ESC to make sure it matches or is greater than the motor. Also, some ESCs (not many) will only run sensored motors, so pay attention to that (most modern sensored ESCs can run with a sensored motor or a sensorless so it normally not an issue). Also, you may need to solder the bullets on the motor lead or ESC lead to match. Most motors in the 3650 to 4074 size seem to use 4mm bullets, but some may have smaller or larger bullets, or no motor leads at all (solder your own). If you can solder, this is a non-issue, but if you don't, then you need to have a hobby shop (or friend) solder it for you.

People are often attracted to the GoolRC ESCs because of the very low price. Their 80a/120a ESC's are under $50, sometimes you can catch them on sale for around $25. Comparable HobbyWing or Castle ESC's are $100-$150. But, they (GoolRC) have a VERY high failure rate, (sometimes dead out of the box), they don't have much programing options, and can't be programed without the programing card.

Last - understand that ALL ESC's brands can fail. People burn Hobbywing, Castle, Tekin, Orion, GoolRC, Spektrum, they all can fail. Some are more solid than others. Some have more safety shutdown than others. Some have better warrantee support. But they can all fail.
 
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it's possible to mix and match the esc and motors? (as long as the specs matches)


too bad the motor mount doesn't come with the blx version


those are some big wheels lol
You could get the Hot Racing motor mount. They are stronger, and don't bend as easily.

Yeah, the wheels are stock, they are just wider. I already burnt out the motor running it on 3s. The motor is way smaller than it said in the description. I'm going to try to fit a Senton 3s motor in there lol.
 

AizenSousuke

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Yes. You do need to watch the amp ratings of ESC to make sure it matches or is greater than the motor. Also, some ESCs (not many) will only run sensored motors, so pay attention to that (most modern sensored ESCs can run with a sensored motor or a sensorless so it normally not an issue). Also, you may need to solder the bullets on the motor lead or ESC lead to match. Most motors in the 3650 to 4074 size seem to use 4mm bullets, but some may have smaller or larger bullets, or no motor leads at all (solder your own). If you can solder, this is a non-issue, but if you don't, then you need to have a hobby shop (or friend) solder it for you.

People are often attracted to the GoolRC ESCs because of the very low price. Their 80a/120a ESC's are under $50, sometimes you can catch them on sale for around $25. Comparable HobbyWing or Castle ESC's are $100-$150. But, they (GoolRC) have a VERY high failure rate, (sometimes dead out of the box), they don't have much programing options, and can't be programed without the programing card.

Last - understand that ALL ESC's brands can fail. People burn Hobbywing, Castle, Tekin, Orion, GoolRC, Spektrum, they all can fail. Some are more solid than others. Some have more safety shutdown than others. Some have better warrantee support. But they can all fail.

Thank you. I didn't know about the sensored/non sensored motors part. So much things to learn haha... I wish there was a sticky thread on the motor and esc part.

Noted on the last point. If they fail the best choice is to return for warranty?

You could get the Hot Racing motor mount. They are stronger, and don't bend as easily.

Yeah, the wheels are stock, they are just wider. I already burnt out the motor running it on 3s. The motor is way smaller than it said in the description. I'm going to try to fit a Senton 3s motor in there lol.

I currently am using the stock AR31078. The link you provided is just the metal part? I'd have to get the AR310898 and replace it right?
 
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