Typhon Upgrading Mega 550 to 4S

AizenSousuke

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Thinking of upgrading my mega V3 to 3-4S and standby for 6S in the near future. Can I just buy a castle 2S-6S capable motor and link it up with the Spektrum ESC that is used in the 6S typhon?

What gear minimally do I need to change?
 

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Noted on the last point. If they fail the best choice is to return for warranty?
Some shops will have a 30 day return, you can use that. Otherwise you need call the ESC manufacturer. This is where GoolRC and all its rebrands (Racerstar, suprass, Oday, ect.) fail, because you can't contact them. With a big brand like Castle, Tekin and some others, you can talk to the mfgr warrantee department pretty easy to get your ESC replaced under warrantee.

If you decided to go the cheap GoolRC route, be sure to buy from some place that has easy returns, because chances are, you will need it.
 

AizenSousuke

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Some shops will have a 30 day return, you can use that. Otherwise you need call the ESC manufacturer. This is where GoolRC and all its rebrands (Racerstar, suprass, Oday, ect.) fail, because you can't contact them. With a big brand like Castle, Tekin and some others, you can talk to the mfgr warrantee department pretty easy to get your ESC replaced under warrantee.

Thanks man! Going to get my hobbywing max10 tomorrow!
 

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It looks shorter than IC5 and is labelled IC3.

I also just bought a 2S Spektrum smart battery (IC3) with the S1200 charger. Is EC5/IC5 the same thing? backwards compatible with the battery?
Yes they are compatible with each other. Plus, IC3 is only rated for 60amps. The Max10sct is a 120amp ESC. You're gonna want battery connectors that can handle the power of the ESC. The IC5/Ec5 and XT90 are sufficient for the Max10sct.
 

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Yes, I know the IC3, I ran EC3 for a while. They are great plugs in that they are dead simple to solder, maybe the easiest plug in the RC market to solder. But, they are a 3.5mm bullet, so as @Kla912000 said, they are only 60amp rated, plus they wear out kind of quick compared to other bullet plugs. I still run 3.5mm bullets on my 2wd 1/10 scale, and on all of my minis. For my 1/104wd and larger cars, I run a bigger plug.

The XT90 I run is a 4.5mm bullet, and rated for 90a. Fine for 1/8 with motors like the 4074 BLX185. The EC5/IC5 is a bit bigger, with a 5mm bullet, rated for about 120a.

IC3/5 vs EC3/5 - they are more or less the same plug, but the IC version is the "Smart" plug, the EC is the regular plug. You can plug a IC plug into a EC plug, so long as they are both *3 or both *5 plugs. If you need to go from a *3 to a *5, you need an adaptor.
 

AizenSousuke

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Yes they are compatible with each other. Plus, IC3 is only rated for 60amps. The Max10sct is a 120amp ESC. You're gonna want battery connectors that can handle the power of the ESC. The IC5/Ec5 and XT90 are sufficient for the Max10sct.

Oh god... I didn't know that. I thought they were compatible in the sense that it 'just works'. So I have to upgrade my battery connectors? (solder IC5 to the ESC)

Yes, I know the IC3, I ran EC3 for a while. They are great plugs in that they are dead simple to solder, maybe the easiest plug in the RC market to solder. But, they are a 3.5mm bullet, so as @Kla912000 said, they are only 60amp rated, plus they wear out kind of quick compared to other bullet plugs. I still run 3.5mm bullets on my 2wd 1/10 scale, and on all of my minis. For my 1/104wd and larger cars, I run a bigger plug.

The XT90 I run is a 4.5mm bullet, and rated for 90a. Fine for 1/8 with motors like the 4074 BLX185. The EC5/IC5 is a bit bigger, with a 5mm bullet, rated for about 120a.

IC3/5 vs EC3/5 - they are more or less the same plug, but the IC version is the "Smart" plug, the EC is the regular plug. You can plug a IC plug into a EC plug, so long as they are both *3 or both *5 plugs. If you need to go from a *3 to a *5, you need an adaptor.

So it's the same wire but with an EC5 connector at the end it is rated for 120A and if it is a IC3 connector, it is rated for 60A?

Does using a conversion from IC3 to IC5 works? or I have to have both male and female at IC5 for the rated-ness to work?



Thanks all for the knowledge parted. Really appreciate it.


EDIT: Something like using SPMXCA508
 
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Kla912000

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Your best bet is to convert everything to IC5/EC5 if you are using a Max10sct. That way you will be good for future upgrades. If you only run a 2s battery a EC3/IC3 will be ok. But if you plan to run 3s, or even 4s batteries then you are better off with EC5/IC5 connectors.
 

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Oh god... I didn't know that. I thought they were compatible in the sense that it 'just works'. So I have to upgrade my battery connectors? (solder IC5 to the ESC)



So it's the same wire but with an EC5 connector at the end it is rated for 120A and if it is a IC3 connector, it is rated for 60A?

Does using a conversion from IC3 to IC5 works? or I have to have both male and female at IC5 for the rated-ness to work?



Thanks all for the knowledge parted. Really appreciate it.


EDIT: Something like using SPMXCA508
Yes, yes, but, and yes.

Every part of the electrical system as a power rating (I am an electrical designer/power distribution, so this is my bread and butter). The wire has a rating, and the plug has a separate rating. Mostly, you don't need to worry about the wire, as the battery mfgr and the ESC mfgr will spec out proper wire size.

The adaptor will be great for charging, but I don't like to run with adaptors - it just gives the system anther place to fail. If you can get your batteries and ESC to the IC5/EC5 plugs, that would be best.

That charge looks good, 200W will be goods if you ever get into 6s cars. But - it is DC, so you will need a power supply. The Spektrum PSU is only 300w for $100. I would recommend one like this one -
https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=141&product_id=459
$75 for 1025w. These are used computer server PSU's that are re-purposed to power RC battery chargers. Very reliable, cheap, and give extra capacity to run a second or third charger at the same time (future growth).
 

AizenSousuke

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Your best bet is to convert everything to IC5/EC5 if you are using a Max10sct. That way you will be good for future upgrades. If you only run a 2s battery a EC3/IC3 will be ok. But if you plan to run 3s, or even 4s batteries then you are better off with EC5/IC5 connectors.

It's only IC3 because I have a 2S. I saw the 3S and 4S batteries have IC5 connectors (Spektrum). I just noticed that. :LOL: Luckily my charger can support both 3 and 5.

Yes, yes, but, and yes.

Every part of the electrical system as a power rating (I am an electrical designer/power distribution, so this is my bread and butter). The wire has a rating, and the plug has a separate rating. Mostly, you don't need to worry about the wire, as the battery mfgr and the ESC mfgr will spec out proper wire size.

The adaptor will be great for charging, but I don't like to run with adaptors - it just gives the system anther place to fail. If you can get your batteries and ESC to the IC5/EC5 plugs, that would be best.

That charge looks good, 200W will be goods if you ever get into 6s cars. But - it is DC, so you will need a power supply. The Spektrum PSU is only 300w for $100. I would recommend one like this one -
https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=141&product_id=459
$75 for 1025w. These are used computer server PSU's that are re-purposed to power RC battery chargers. Very reliable, cheap, and give extra capacity to run a second or third charger at the same time (future growth).

DC? The input is DC and I don't need a power supply so far to charge my batteries. I don't get the power supply part :unsure:
 

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It's only IC3 because I have a 2S. I saw the 3S and 4S batteries have IC5 connectors (Spektrum). I just noticed that. :LOL: Luckily my charger can support both 3 and 5.



DC? The input is DC and I don't need a power supply so far to charge my batteries. I don't get the power supply part :unsure:
DC is like running off of or plugging into let's say a car battery or cigarette lighter. It won't plug into a wall socket in your house. You need a AC input supply.
 

AizenSousuke

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DC is like running off of or plugging into let's say a car battery or cigarette lighter. It won't plug into a wall socket in your house. You need a AC input supply.
I'm only charging my battery at home (AC wall socket to DC input on the charger)

So far I don't see a need for that item that was linked...
 

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I'm only charging my battery at home (AC wall socket to DC input on the charger)

So far I don't see a need for that item that was linked...

I also just bought a 2S Spektrum smart battery (IC3) with the S1200 charger.
Do you have your charger?
Is this your charger?
https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMXC1000

PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS​

Input:7-32 V DC
# Cells:LiHv (1-6S) LiPo (1-6S) LiFe (1-6S) Lilon (1-6S) NiMH/Cd (1-15C) Pb (1-12S)
Charge Rate:0.1 - 8.0A
Cooling Method:Fan
Voltmeter:Yes - on main LCD display
Amp Meter:Yes - on main LCD display
LCD:YesLength:3.1 in (80 mm)
Width:3.1 in (80 mm)Height:1.3 in (34 mm)

I highlighted the important line.

This charger will NOT plug into the wall. It has 12v or 24v input. This is why you need the extra $100 brick. the PSU converts the wall 120vac to the 12vdc that your charger need to run.

But, seeing as this can run on 24v, you will be better off (future proofing) with a 24v PSU, as there are a lot of newer higher power chargers that need 24v to make their specs. I would advise getting one of these -
http://lipoconnectionsolutions.com/24v-Power-Supplies_c14.htm
 
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AizenSousuke

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Do you have your charger?
Is this your charger?
https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMXC1000

PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS​

Input:7-32 V DC
# Cells:LiHv (1-6S) LiPo (1-6S) LiFe (1-6S) Lilon (1-6S) NiMH/Cd (1-15C) Pb (1-12S)
Charge Rate:0.1 - 8.0A
Cooling Method:Fan
Voltmeter:Yes - on main LCD display
Amp Meter:Yes - on main LCD display
LCD:YesLength:3.1 in (80 mm)
Width:3.1 in (80 mm)Height:1.3 in (34 mm)

I highlighted the important line.

This charger will NOT plug into the wall. It has 12v or 24v input. This is why you need the extra $100 brick. the PSU converts the wall 120vac to the 12vdc that your charger need to run.

But, seeing as this can run on 24v, you will be better off (future proofing) with a 24v PSU, as there are a lot of newer higher power chargers that need 24v to make their specs. I would advise getting one of these -
http://lipoconnectionsolutions.com/24v-Power-Supplies_c14.htm

The DC charger will not plug into a AC wall socket in your house. It's common sense. You need the AC/DC 12v/24v converter.



Sorry guys I didnt realize there was another of the same model .. is this one https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/s1200-g2-ac-1x200w-smart-charger/SPMXC2020.html .

I referred to the wrong instructions manual when I made my post yesterday. 240V AC instead of DC.

Edit:

1623464429072.png
Did I miss anything?
 
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Ben&Sons

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Sorry guys I didnt realize there was another of the same model .. is this one https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/s1200-g2-ac-1x200w-smart-charger/SPMXC2020.html .

I referred to the wrong instructions manual when I made my post yesterday. 240V AC instead of DC.

Edit:

View attachment 151564
Did I miss anything?
Not sure if this has already been covered as researching and tending to sick daughter in between reads but....

your need to change the solid plastic upper support arms front and rear plus steering arms for adjustable arms. The solid plastic won’t last. Also, stock servo is pants. Get a budget 20 to 25kg one off Amazon but it will be 25tooth. Does come with a 25t servo arm but I couldn’t get it to fit in the servo housing as the arm was too long. Your stock servo is 23t I think but you can do as I did and wedge the stock arm onto the new servo (caveat: totally new to this and was in a rush so others will probably put this detail straight!).

Also, haven’t checked you motor / esc combo but you will need a heat sync and fan for the motor.

And try breakers / e-bay for the Arrma parts. They are cheaper, parts are new and generally come with all the screws you need.

I bought mega granite and Typhon for my son and I, ended up converting the granite to 3s but sold the Typhon for good money and bought a 3s version. It will cost a heap more to convert but it’s a learning curve and helps you get to know your truck so I don’t regret it.

C45FB5DB-D150-434C-B922-BA39C937ECB3.png
 

AizenSousuke

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Not sure if this has already been covered as researching and tending to sick daughter in between reads but....

your need to change the solid plastic upper support arms front and rear plus steering arms for adjustable arms. The solid plastic won’t last. Also, stock servo is pants. Get a budget 20 to 25kg one off Amazon but it will be 25tooth. Does come with a 25t servo arm but I couldn’t get it to fit in the servo housing as the arm was too long. Your stock servo is 23t I think but you can do as I did and wedge the stock arm onto the new servo (caveat: totally new to this and was in a rush so others will probably put this detail straight!).

Also, haven’t checked you motor / esc combo but you will need a heat sync and fan for the motor.

And try breakers / e-bay for the Arrma parts. They are cheaper, parts are new and generally come with all the screws you need.

I bought mega granite and Typhon for my son and I, ended up converting the granite to 3s but sold the Typhon for good money and bought a 3s version. It will cost a heap more to convert but it’s a learning curve and helps you get to know your truck so I don’t regret it.

View attachment 151739

hey hope your daughter gets well soon

lol once i added them I found out that if added a little bit more $ I could get a 3S new ._.

Dammit it's just way better to get a 3S\6S at this point lol
 

Ben&Sons

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Thanks Aizen, they bounce back pretty quick when their young thankfully…!!

yes - definitely cheaper to buy new…!! And you can e-bay the Mega. I got £150 for mine so only lost £60 overall.

the Typhon 3s ripps so won’t disappoint. Just read up on lipo batteries. Not trying to confuse your choice but pending your use, the vorteks maybe a better idea if your mostly running grass and loose dirt and not too much jumping..?!

I mostly run dirt tracks with decent jumps and it’s hard to keep her straight on the loose stuff so I swopped the transmitter and receiver for one with stability control. All I’m thinking is, if your going to mostly run on loose ground, the vorteks already comes with stability control which you can turn up or down. It only keeps the front wheels straight and back end from sliding out but it seriously helps at times when all you want to do is nail that trigger…!!

maybe watch some videos on both but I wouldn’t be without my Typhon, its one I’d replace tomorrow above my others if I wrecked it…!!
 
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