Senton Upgrading to 4s. Tips?

[sentonist]

How's it goin'

So I recently purchased through ebay a blx 120 and 2400kv motor combo taken from a kraton 4s, and have decided to put that on my senton 3s.
I had a few concerns about going about it, one being the spur gear, should I worry about replacing the current stock plastic gear and getting a steel spur? The drivetrain in general is one of my major concerns. Another question I have is the pinion. I currently run the 20T, which is the factory gear. I'm wondering if I can gear up, so that I can still achieve a good top-speed. Anyways, I would like to hear y'alls suggestions and possibly if there's something else I should worry about.

Thanks

 

[jondilly1974]

Get the 4S slipper assembly too. I would try the 20T first but you can go up to a 27T pinion without any other mods.

 

[Surchaufeur]

4s seems a bit overpowered for a short course truck hopefully it doesn't fly away

 

[sentonist]

Get the 4S slipper assembly too. I would try the 20T first but you can go up to a 27T pinion without any other mods.

I assume you are referring to a kraton/outcast 4s slipper? If not, I know that arrma makes a steel spur for the 3s senton. Which leads me to another question, should I get one with just the gear, or one that has the entire slipper assembly ready to run?
-thanks

 

[jondilly1974]

I assume you are referring to a kraton/outcast 4s slipper? If not, I know that arrma makes a steel spur for the 3s senton. Which leads me to another question, should I get one with just the gear, or one that has the entire slipper assembly ready to run?
-thanks

I would just grab the whole slipper assembly from either of the 4S rigs. They updated the slipper pads this year too. Not sure if you have the older hex or newer castellated pads. If you already have the newer pads, then just get the spur.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Are you starting with a BLX3s or a MEGA? If MEGA, you will need new slipper & motor mount (3s or 4s, 4s is stronger) and the BLX diffs with input gear. Also, you may want to get the BLX center driveshaft with bearing support.

 

[sentonist]

Are you starting with a BLX3s or a MEGA? If MEGA, you will need new slipper & motor mount (3s or 4s, 4s is stronger) and the BLX diffs with input gear. Also, you may want to get the BLX center driveshaft with bearing support.

I have the 3s BLX already

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I have the 3s BLX already

Good. I'd just start with the motor and ESC. Order the 4s slipper to have in hand in case the 3s slipper gives up.

 

[Casper391]

Get the 4S slipper assembly too. I would try the 20T first but you can go up to a 27T pinion without any other mods.

I have a truggy Typhon 3s and I have not had any issues running 4s on it with a castle extreme ESC and a1800kv on a 26t yet, with fan on motor. Cool temps outside maybe 160 ish. All stock drivetrain and it holding up so far. It depends on the outside temp and the driving style. Just throwing my experience out there. Hotter weather will definitely gear down to a 20t.

 

[sentonist]

I have a truggy Typhon 3s and I have not had any issues running 4s on it with a castle extreme ESC and a1800kv on a 26t yet, with fan on motor. Cool temps outside maybe 160 ish. All stock drivetrain and it holding up so far. It depends on the outside temp and the driving style. Just throwing my experience out there. Hotter weather will definitely gear down to a 20t.

Interesting, I had not considered the temperature as a factor. So I already have the 20T, I live where average is around 85F~, would that gear be all I need?

Thanks for bringing up your experience with the 3s platform moving to 4s, makes me feel a little bit better knowing that most of the drivetrain should (hopefully) hold up

 

[jondilly1974]

Interesting, I had not considered the temperature as a factor. So I already have the 20T, I live where average is around 85F~, would that gear be all I need?

Thanks for bringing up your experience with the 3s platform moving to 4s, makes me feel a little bit better knowing that most of the drivetrain should (hopefully) hold up

Make sure your slipper isn’t too tight or you will surely pop u-joints in the driveshafts.

 

[sentonist]

Make sure your slipper isn’t too tight or you will surely pop u-joints in the driveshafts.

Since you brought it up, I actually wonder if my current slipper is too loose, because even when I set the punch to L5, it still launches as if it's still in stock punch, it's a very smooth acceleration even though I'll start at full throttle. So if you think it's necessary, do you think I should tighten the slipper, and how? When I first got it and ran on 3s, I could pull a wheelie like nothing, now I can't hardly unless I'm already cookin', even on 4s.

 

[jondilly1974]

Since you brought it up, I actually wonder if my current slipper is too loose, because even when I set the punch to L5, it still launches as if it's still in stock punch, it's a very smooth acceleration even though I'll start at full throttle. So if you think it's necessary, do you think I should tighten the slipper, and how? When I first got it and ran on 3s, I could pull a wheelie like nothing, now I can't hardly unless I'm already cookin', even on 4s.

Yeah sounds like it’s loose. What I do is insert the 2mm drive inside the red spline and hold it still. Then roll the truck forward until the wheels skid. Don’t push down hard on the truck, just push it forward by hand. When it starts skidding, it’s tight. Remove the slipper hub and put a drop of thread lock inside the rear hub onto the end of the screw threads. Leave it sitting for 24 hours so it can drop and pool at the base of the threads. It needs 24 hours to cure. After 24 hours you can reassemble the truck and run it again. If you put it back together too soon the thread lock will glue the hub to the rear diff input gear. That will make removing the power module much harder next time.