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Used Fury questions

Discussion in 'Fury & Mojave' started by biggman100, Mar 10, 2018.

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  1. biggman100

    biggman100 Well-Known Member

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    I finally took it apart, and, unless im missing something here, and Arrma does something noone else does, the diff is totally locked. On every car i have ever had, when it is off, and you spin one wheel, the opposite wheel spins the opposite direction, but, on this one, both wheels spin the same direction, and, now that it is mostly apart, i cant even turn the outputs without turning the entire outer housing where the spider gears go. Unfortunately, until i get a small enough allen wrench, i cant take apart that housing any further to see what is actually going on with it.
     
  2. Skaxis

    Skaxis Well-Known Member

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    The diff should NOT be locked. Early Fury differentials had a design flaw which resulted in the internal shims doming under pressure from use. The redesign beefed up the shims and crosspins necessitating a new diff rebuild kit and diff housing. If you have an older Fury, take the diff apart. You can find my old thread here where I show what the domed shims look like. The more they dome, the harder the diff lock becomes. Don't push it too hard if it's totally locked because you can really mess things up!
     
  3. Bri26

    Bri26 Well-Known Member

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    Something is wrong with the diff. On my Fury, if you turn one wheel, the other wheel turns the opposite direction like all RC vehicles with a gear diff.

    Best regards,
    Brian
     
  4. Skaxis

    Skaxis Well-Known Member

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    I hunted down the thread I was referring to. Here you go:

    https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/gearbox-noise.399/
     
  5. biggman100

    biggman100 Well-Known Member

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    That is pretty much what i figured. Unfortunately, i cant do anything with until i can get the allen wrench i need to get the 4 screws out of the diff housing, which more than likely wont be until tomorrow. I am assuming, until i get it apart, that it is probably dry or close to it inside. It acts the same way the locker in my 4WD Dakota does when its engaged though, so, maybe he did it that way. Luckily, i have extra spider (bevel) gears and pins, i just don't remember seeing an extra housing (the truck came with 2 boxes of extra parts, i just didn't go through them all yet).
     
  6. biggman100

    biggman100 Well-Known Member

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    After getting my shed keys out of my wifes car, i went through the boxes and found the following,
    (1) AR310008 outdrive set
    (4) AR310009 13pc diff gear maintenance set
    (1) AR31003 diff/idler gear set
    (1) AR330022 O ring set.
    However, on the diagram from your other post, it looks like i am still missing at least a couple of shims, since it looks like in the kits i have, i have the shims for the smaller gears, and the 2 o rings, but, not the 2 shims that go under the pins on the outdrives.

    Correction, 2 of the kits i have have all 4 shims, 2 o rings, 2 pins for the outdrives, 4 gears and the center pin, but two of the kits are missing the 2 bigger shims.
     
  7. Skaxis

    Skaxis Well-Known Member

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    Once you get the hex driver to disassemble the diff you'll know what you need to replace. Look to see if either of the small bevels is cracked or shattered, and check to see if the shims under the large bevels are anything but totally flat. Your AR310009 should come with the following bits:

    [​IMG]

    Your AR310003 should include the following bits:
    [​IMG]
    Note: Those are the discontinued parts and quite possibly are the "prone to dome and shatter" variety. The current parts numbers you can buy are: AR310378, AR310416 and AR310399 So that's like $45 for a complete new differential setup.
     
  8. biggman100

    biggman100 Well-Known Member

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    I finally got it apart last night, and both of the spacers behind the larger gears were cone shaped, and, the smaller gears had no spacers behind them, so, i just used one of the kits and replaced everything, then filled it with traxxas 10k. It seems to work properly now, even though it feels a bit stiff, but at least it isn't locked right up. I haven't had a chance to run it yet, but i'm hoping to in a bit.
     
  9. Skaxis

    Skaxis Well-Known Member

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    Sounds exactly like my own experience. A bit stiff on the diff is fine. Esp for a basher that'll see smooth surface/asphalt.
     
  10. biggman100

    biggman100 Well-Known Member

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    It wont see much asphalt, but a lot of rough dirt, smooth grass, and some smallish jumps. My neighbor and i are building a course out back in an open field to run several trucks on. He has a JLB Cheetah, and a Redcat Blackout, and i now have an Arrma Fury, a Racers Edge Pro2, 2 Redcat Volcanoes, a Force RC Warhawk, an Associated SC 4WD, and an Exceed RC Drift car. I have a Senton and a Granite, but both of those came to me broke and in pieces, and i just haven't had the funds to fix them yet. I did run it out front, and it still likes to just do donuts on asphalt, but it has gotten much better on dirt and grass. My next project involves the Warhawk, and figuring out why at times, from a dead stop, it acts like it wont go, and other times it takes off like it got shot out of a cannon (i did put a spare Racers Edge Wizard ESC and Racers edge brushless motor in it, but, don't have a program card for it yet, and i think a lot of its issue is the ESC settings).
     
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