Talion Used loctite and now can't get the wheels off!

[slick2500]

I gotten to you should have listened twice now. But not quite to it's not tight if it's liquid yet.

I hate when I have to bust out the dremel. That is one reason I replace as many screws as I can with socket heads, I find they are much harder to strip than button or counter sunk screws.

 

[FatCatRC]

I hate when I have to bust out the dremel. That is one reason I replace as many screws as I can with socket heads, I find they are much harder to strip than button or counter sunk screws.

Same. 12.9 cap screws wherever possible.

 

[banjoted]

I hate when I have to bust out the dremel. That is one reason I replace as many screws as I can with socket heads, I find they are much harder to strip than button or counter sunk screws.

I've ordered myself a proper wrench, but I guess if that fails the dremel can be the backup plan!

 

[FatCatRC]

I've ordered myself a proper wrench, but I guess if that fails the dremel can be the backup plan!

if you drmel them off then chances are you will need to buy new hubs. Unless your a surgeon with a dremel I don't see you cutting the nut off and not nick the threads.

 

[banjoted]

if you drmel them off then chances are you will need to buy new hubs. Unless your a surgeon with a dremel I don't see you cutting the nut off and not nick the threads.

Obviously not ideal, but at some stage I'm gonna have to do something to get them off. Fingers crossed on the wrench!

 

[FatCatRC]

Obviously not ideal, but at some stage I'm gonna have to do something to get them off. Fingers crossed on the wrench!

Like I said grab a good hold of the metal cvd axle shaft with some vice grips, heat the nut nice and good with a torch and spin it off with the supplied wrench. A different wrench won't make a difference. You need heat and a good hold on the axle so it cant spin and the nut will come off.

 

[SrC]

You used TL on ALLOY to ALLOY. TL is corrosive to Alloys. Seizing together. Try a heat Gun if a soldering Iron tip wont work. It may melt the wheels, but understand it is all a loss anyway. Live and learn. If you feel the need to use TL on those nuts, you are doing something wrong in the first place. IMHO.
Need to smell the TL melting/ burning to know it is hot enough to wrench at that point. The 6S hexes are large Fasteners and takes much to heat it up enough. Get an Impact gun to remove the wheel nuts if needed. A 17mm socket and a breaker bar can also work possibly.

EDIT: worse case you can also cut off the nuts with a Dremel. Replace all the parts as needed.

 

[banjoted]

Living and learning, folks. Had been told (obviously erroneously) to use Loctite on the nuts. Now I know!

Can anyone spell out the worst case scenario of what are the minimum amount of parts I'll have to trash if these nuts really aren't gonna move? And please do presume my knowledge remains incredibly low (because, well, while growing, my knowledge remains incredibly low).

 

[jkflow]

You haven't tried hard enough yet before you bring out the dremel.
Just hold the cup at the diff with a strong pair of pliers.
I use loctite on my wheels and prevented more damage then damage the hex's, only thing that happens is that the anodizing wears off.

Worst case dremel issue, you loose your wheel and the 17mm hex. You will damage the threads. You will then have to remove the hex where you will be faced with more loctite and those are hard to remove.

Now get your pliers, hold on to that cup and twist that hex.

Like this:

https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...heel-kraton-nuts-ar106021?variant=33108898502

 

[SrC]

Living and learning, folks. Had been told (obviously erroneously) to use Loctite on the nuts. Now I know!

Can anyone spell out the worst case scenario of what are the minimum amount of parts I'll have to trash if these nuts really aren't gonna move? And please do presume my knowledge remains incredibly low (because, well, while growing, my knowledge remains incredibly low).

TL can be use on Steel hexes and Steel nuts with no problem. Even then, too much Blue TL is no good and not needed.
You probably thought it was ok on Alloy to Alloy. But I don't recommend that for the obvious reason seen.