Limitless V2 differences - What they didn't tell you

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Funny you bring up the flat part of the pool. Last night, that was one of the modifications I made on mine. I used a Dremel to grind out a slighly larger are of flat so that I could reverse the stock spool gear and have a place for the set screw to seat. Was it a hack? Sure was, but I'm going to get that damn car running if it means chopping every thing in it to make it work with what I have. For the record, I had to drill out the cross pin head because of red loctite. The spur is only being held on by one set screw as both openings at 180 are threaded on the Arrma pinions. I used a small enough bit that I didn't wreck the threads in the first hole, but I can't figure out how to remove the remaing metal that was left in the hole. Does anyone else see how bad this is going? I think it's time I take up needle point, but I'd probably still end up stabbing myself.
I've had to do the same thing to the one or other odd gear. I was typically able to rotate the rest out using a small jeweler's screwdriver.
 
As far as removing what's left, the only thing I can think of is chasing the hole with a tap but I is not a machinist.

I guess we should all sell our stuff and wait for the RTR Limitless to come out.....
Now that you said it, maybe tapping it out to a large size is not a bad idea. I hate that we can only use those tiny set screws on the Arrma pinions. Bore and tap to one size larger might be a good way to go. Thanks, now I just have to buy more tools.
 
Now that you said it, maybe tapping it out to a large size is not a bad idea. I hate that we can only use those tiny set screws on the Arrma pinions. Bore and tap to one size larger might be a good way to go. Thanks, now I just have to buy more tools.

Not to be a Debbie Downer but I'm not sure how easy it will be to cut into hardened steel (vs. chasing threads). Also not sure how deep the hardening goes and if that will be an issue if you cut through it enlarging the hole.
 
Not to be a Debbie Downer but I'm not sure how easy it will be to cut into hardened steel (vs. chasing threads). Also not sure how deep the hardening goes and if that will be an issue if you cut through it enlarging the hole.
That's a good point. You could try annealing the gear, then drilling and tapping it and then hardening it. But now we're really getting into the weeds.
 
You could also use the v1 motor mount and slide. They're different. I know one of my rigs had an 8mm shaft with v1 mount iirc but I don't remember if I had to flip pinion but you might have one laying around to try
 
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You could also use the v1 motor mount and slide. They're different. I know one of my rigs had an 8mm shaft with v1 mount iirc but I don't remember if I had to flip pinion but you might have one laying around to try
I had the same issue with the stock 6s mount. I ended up boring out the center of the slide to make the pinions work. Was hoping I could avoid doing that with this one, but I think the shaft of my motor is the problem and will be an issue with whichever I use.
 
@Diem Turner @Engineer @jondilly1974 and @Moirae, the winner of the fix the short shaft problem is...........the step cut the slider! Spool is in its og spot and pinion's got plenty of room in the modified slider. Thanks for all the help on this one gentlemen
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Booyah brother!! The stepped drill cuts aluminum like butter, doesn't it?
Butter from the freezer, but butter all the same. Issue is the two openings on either side of the slider. You have to have a firm and steady hand to control the jerking as you start to cut. Slapping my children in the back of the head as they grew up, has given me this type of control 😜
 
Butter from the freezer, but butter all the same. Issue is the two openings on either side of the slider. You have to have a firm and steady hand to control the jerking as you start to cut. Slapping my children in the back of the head as they grew up, has given me this type of control 😜
A man of many talents (y) :p
 
Nice work J. I made some progress on the SAGA pinion swap on mine. Turns out using two of the thin spool spacers works perfect for the SAGA pinion. I tried a 46T pinion and it looks good. Also because there is two threaded holes 90 degrees apart, I think I can incorporate both a set screw on the flat and cut down one of the threaded shafts so that it will align the pinion in the proper axial location while using the set screw to retain the pinion onto the shaft. Will experiment more tomorrow but it looks promising.

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Yeah @jondilly1974, through the slot. Both grubs sit just inside the shoulder of the pinion so no chance of rubbing inside.
Slit/Slot, tomato/tomahto...just don't forget your "close quarters combat sock" and you should be good to go.
 
If you all don't mind me asking here. I am planning a Infraction build from the ground up and was wondering should I use the limitless v2 chassis? Trying to figure out if there would be any benefit to doing so or is there a better known chassis out there that I should go with over the stock Infraction chassis that I can get from jennysrc
Thanks 😊
 
If you all don't mind me asking here. I am planning a Infraction build from the ground up and was wondering should I use the limitless v2 chassis? Trying to figure out if there would be any benefit to doing so or is there a better known chassis out there that I should go with over the stock Infraction chassis that I can get from jennysrc
Thanks 😊
If you have the coin, Scorched GT chassis is the best one imho. They're not cheap, but they provide endless real estate, 4mm thickness and just look sexy AF. If you do decide on one, there are three different variations. One with stock hole pattern (GT) for battery trays, etc. One without (GTC) and a special SPC version with a different center diff position that requires the use of a Pinocchio spool. The one in the picture is the GT version. I got the GTC because I'm not a fan of the battery trays. I prefer Dual-Lock with straps. Looks cleaner and uses up less space.
https://scorchedparts.co.uk/collect...fibre-chassis-limitless-infraction-and-felony
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That is exotic 😍
Probably save that for when I get the itch to do speed runs.
They're absolutely stunning. Beautiful machining.

In that case, you might want to check ebay classifieds to see if you can find a good deal on a roller and then just drop electronics of your choice in and upgrade it as you progress. The stock electronics aren't bad for starters either. Stock gearing on 6S will get you 65mph, included speed gear is good for 80-85mph. 100-105 if you stretch it with some aftermarket gearing, but that's about as much as the 150A ESC can do. The stock Infraction is a solid platform to work from. Don't get sucked in by a lot of the aluminum aftermarket "upgrades". A lot of it is just bling with zero performance benefit that only increase the likelihood of breaking other parts. The stock composites are light, durable, cheap and offer a certain amount of give/flex which helps protect connected components.
 
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If you all don't mind me asking here. I am planning a Infraction build from the ground up and was wondering should I use the limitless v2 chassis? Trying to figure out if there would be any benefit to doing so or is there a better known chassis out there that I should go with over the stock Infraction chassis that I can get from jennysrc
Thanks 😊
Personally, I would definitely go with the limitless v2 chassis out of the ones you listed. Smaller battery trays kind of suck but if it becomes a problem, you can always snip a piece of em off like I did to fit larger batteries. The increased motor length is super worth it imo but if you're just going to use stock electronics, I guess it doesn't really matter what you do.
 
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