Outcast V2 OC4 build using the V1 K4 chassis. (See new thread).

[JPWSRC]

See this thread for focused information on mods and parts needed:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/v1-k4-lwb-to-v2-outcast-conversion.55503/


Figured I'd morph my V1 K4 into the new V2 Outcast 4s.
I'm using Imperial measurement approximations. At this point I'm in a very early preliminary stage.
The towers are interchangeable BTW and are what I'll be using for this build primarily for shock location changes and rear wing mounting.

The Outcast body is a about a "3/4 longer than the Kraton body. The front body mount location is perfect using the new tower and body mount.
The rear holes for the body mounts are about 3/4" too far foward. Besides relocating the holes at the back, the body will need to be trimmed a little for shock and tower clearance, not a huge deal to be honest. The rear body mounts could possibly be shimmed foward to some degree to keep from drilling a new set of holes but the rear of the body ends up sitting on top of the rear tower instead of behind it. Basically, this Kraton LWB chassis is longer so a quick fix would be the V2 OC chassis.

Interestingly the V1 K4 body still lines up while using the newer towers and OC body mounts.
Gotta hit the sack for now. Will be back at it tomorrow and do a comparison of the V1 and V2 OC body as well.
I need to source the rear wing screws. I have alot of fasteners but none are quite as long as is needed.

SEE POST #18 for correct info!!!

 

[Tex Koder]

@JPWSRC

When you get a chance, take some measurements at these locations..
(You might want to move the PostMount Up a few holes on the posts, so the mount has more meat to grab onto..)

I'll try to design some 3D printed adapters, if you think that would help make those OEM body posts match up with the OC4Sv2 body.

 

[JPWSRC]

@JPWSRC

When you get a chance, take some measurements at these locations..
(You might want to move the PostMount Up a few holes on the posts, so the mount has more meat to grab onto..)

View attachment 238469

View attachment 238472

I'll try to design some 3D printed adapters, if you think that would help make those OEM body posts match up with the OC4Sv2 body.

I'll get that for ya tomorrow. Although a spacer/ adapter could align the v2 body mount positions for the body, the fact still remains that the body is too short for the V1 chassis. It ends up resting directly on the rear tower and not behind it as it does with the V2 OC4 chassis. Hoping you can tell in these pics below.
Also of note: those new body mounts are used to attach the rear wing to the tower. The fasteners pass through the wing mount, the tower, and into the body posts. The
body mounts have two nycloc nuts in the base.

 

[Tex Koder]

I'll get that for ya tomorrow. Although a spacer/ adapter could align the v2 body mount positions for the body, the fact still remains that the body is too short for the V1 chassis. It ends up resting directly on the rear tower and not behind it as it does with the V2 OC4 chassis. Hoping you can tell in these pics below.
Also of note: those new body mounts are used to attach the rear wing to the tower. The fasteners pass through the wing mount, the tower, and into the body posts. The
body mounts have two nycloc nuts in the base.
View attachment 238480View attachment 238481

I see what you're saying..
So, do you think it's worth it to make the adaptors for these Rear Postmounts?
There's really no way to shift the body away from the shock tower/shocks themselves. Other than doing some surgery to the body shell...

****************************

What about creating adaptors for the Front Postmounts.. Moving them back towards the center thus giving the tailgate area some wiggle room/space away from the rear shock towers??

Nevermind.. That's NOT going to work.

 

[JPWSRC]

I see what you're saying..
So, do you think it's worth it to make the adaptors for these Rear Postmounts?
There's really no way to shift the body away from the shock tower/shocks themselves. Other than doing some surgery to the body shell...

****************************

What about creating adaptors for the Front Postmounts.. Moving them back towards the center thus giving the tailgate area some wiggle room/space away from the rear shock towers??

Nevermind.. That's NOT going to work.

1st question; Yes if one is willing to chop off the rear of the body similar to the Kraton body. Adapters would have to be about a 1/2" thick. This way the tower would be visible which IMO is not a real drawback as long as the wing is there. I was considering this with a pair of bushings behind the body mount. The fasteners would have to be quite long though!
Last statement, .
Not enough room but if you don't mind chopping the back of the OC body, rear adapters would be sweet.

I'm formulating this plan now that I have most of the parts and have had a little time to think about all this. To make this work as an OC, buying the chassis, rear tower, rear body mounts, wing w/ mount, bumpers, and front body mount may be all that's needed.
The body is the $$ item. In total, this could be done for around 120-ish in parts through JRC and HH.
It won't have the extra width but I've never felt that my V1 K4 was a roll heavy rig. At this point I'm only a set of arms, hubs, and links away from a full V2 rig.

 

[JPWSRC]

The driveshaft is needed too, Oops!

Edit 9/5/22 : needed if you swap out for a V2 MWB chassis only.

 

[Robbbbbb66]

The driveshaft is needed too, Oops!

V2 drive shafts fit perfect on my V1 with about a 1/8th of inch trimmed off the male end.


V2 shaft are way more bomber then the v1s.

 

[Tex Koder]

V2 drive shafts fit perfect on my V1 with about a 1/8th of inch trimmed off the male end.


V2 shaft are way more bomber then the v1s.

Photos please

 

[JPWSRC]

V2 drive shafts fit perfect on my V1 with about a 1/8th of inch trimmed off the male end.


V2 shaft are way more bomber then the v1s.

What is Bomber? ( is that supposed to say Beefier?)
Will the V1 K4 shaft fit the shorter O4 chassis? I'm going down in size. Pretty sure there's enough room to compress the shaft but don't want to load up the input shaft bearing or the slipper bearings if it's too tight.

 

[Robbbbbb66]

Photos please

Okay, here are some ( I’m comparing V1 stock to V2 stock)

V2 on the left ^

^Middle;Trimmed V2 ready to be installed on a V1 Left; V1 notice the splines are opposite.

What is Bomber? ( is that supposed to say Beefier?)
Will the V1 K4 shaft fit the shorter O4 chassis? I'm going down in size. Pretty sure there's enough room to compress the shaft but don't want to load up the input shaft bearing or the slipper bearings if it's too tight.

Yeah. Bomber beefy, same thing in my mind. lol

 

[JPWSRC]

Okay, here are some ( I’m comparing V1 stock to V2 stock)View attachment 238540
V2 on the left ^ View attachment 238541
^Middle;Trimmed V2 ready to be installed on a V1 Left; V1 notice the splines are opposite. View attachment 238542

View attachment 238539

Yeah. Bomber beefy, same thing in my mind. lol

Those are axles.
Already have a set of those.

 

[Robbbbbb66]

Those are axles.
Already have a set of those.

Damn, well my terminology is off again.

Are you using V1 EXB axles ?

 

[JPWSRC]

Seems we're using the same term for two different things. I was referring to the center driveshaft.
I have the new CVDs. ( driveshafts)

 

[JPWSRC]

Waiting on parts for now so I thought id share this: here's a shot of the V1 bodies with the V2 OC in the middle. The Kraton body is taller all around except roof height, so it has taller mounting positions than the V2 OC. The width is negligable between the Kraton and V2 OC body with the V2 being slightly wider overall.
The bed and hood heights are the same height on between versions of the Outcast body.
All the body mounts positions are the same width apart. Between all three there's ~ 3/4" difference in length at the rear body mounting points, with the V1 OC body mount positions being the shortest.
Post lengths on center:
V1 OC =10 3/8"
V2 OC =11 1/4"
V1 Kraton =11 7/8"

 

[JPWSRC]

New update. The V2 chassis is 3/4" shorter than the V1 Kraton chassis as are the V2 center driveshaft, and T2T brace. The arm mounts positions in the chassis are also narrower in the center to accommodate the arms thicker chassis pivot points. So using the old arms in the new chassis "may" require a thick ~1/4" shim in inner position. The width didn't change, just the space between the arms.

I'll have a summary with pics in a few days.

 

[JPWSRC]

Slapped this together a couple of hours ago. This is a Full V2 build chassis at this point. I want to get this slider assembled and do a comparison between the V1 K4, and this chassis to see what mods can be done using the V1 slider and V2 rear body mounts and wing. I already know the V2 body is too short and will need to be trimmed up at the rear.
If you don't want to add new holes in the bed, thick spacers will be needed behind the V2 rear body post mounts against the tower.


More to follow...

 

[Tex Koder]

Slapped this together a couple of hours ago. This is a Full V2 build chassis at this point. I want to get this slider assembled and do a comparison between the V1 K4, and this chassis to see what mods can be done using the V1 slider and V2 rear body mounts and wing. I already know the V2 body is too short and will need to be trimmed up at the rear.
If you don't want to add new holes in the bed, thick spacers will be needed behind the V2 rear body post mounts against the tower.


More to follow...View attachment 241425View attachment 241426

So, looking at these photos.. the 1/2" (13mm) extension needed is just basically a straight forward horizontal piece? Is that correct?

 

[JPWSRC]

Well, I should have just given this a quick try as soon as I had the V2 body. It turns out the V2 towers are unnecessary unless you want the taller V2 shocks (which could still be shortened with fuel line to set droop). Although the body does come up short it can work if you raise both the front and rear body mounts. Flip the front and rear body post mounts and adjust height. The body really only needs to be trimmed at the rear of the back wheel openings a small amount ( see diagram). The rear body post holes can be re-drilled for a quick solution. Alternatively; a pair of (front?) V3 K6 body mounts could be attached to the K4 body posts to relocate the post the necessary amount to line up with the factory holes at the rear of the V2 body. ( see mock up) The V1 K4 rear wing mount will accept the V2 OC wheelie bar and larger OC wing.
Remove K4 wheelie bar.

So, looking at these photos.. the 1/2" (13mm) extension needed is just basically a straight forward horizontal piece? Is that correct?

See my latest post. This can be done with minimal body modification of the rear wheel opening for shock clearance using an untouched V1 K4 LWB chassis.

 

[JPWSRC]

FYI. The lower shock mount position from the pivot points are identical on both versions of the OC & K4 arms. Although the newer shocks are longer, they can be shortened for the V1 towers to correct for droop. The V2 CVDs can be modified as noted above by @Rob66 if you don't already have the earlier version of these axles.

 

[Tex Koder]

Well, I should have just given this a quick try as soon as I had the V2 body. It turns out the V2 towers are unnecessary unless you want the taller V2 shocks (which could still be shortened with fuel line to set droop). Although the body does come up short it can work if you raise both the front and rear body mounts. Flip the front and rear body post mounts and adjust height. The body really only needs to be trimmed at the rear of the back wheel openings a small amount ( see diagram). The rear body post holes can be re-drilled for a quick solution. Alternatively; a pair of (front?) V3 K6 body mounts could be attached to the K4 body posts to relocate the post the necessary amount to line up with the factory holes at the rear of the V2 body. ( see mock up) The V1 K4 rear wing mount will accept the V2 OC wheelie bar and larger OC wing.
Remove K4 wheelie bar.

View attachment 241474

View attachment 241475

View attachment 241476

View attachment 241478

View attachment 241479

View attachment 241480

View attachment 241482

See my latest post. This can be done with minimal body modification of the rear wheel opening for shock clearance using an untouched V1 K4 LWB chassis.

Ingenious!
I love how simple your solution turned out to be

That is truly brilliant.