V3 Kraton Living Diary of Death and Destruction

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Nitr0EngiEx

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I just got my Kraton a week ago and I have been shocked with how much has already broken. These things are expected to break on normal cars, but the hype of the Kraton on Youtube and what I read online made it seem indestructible. With that said here are the weak points and issues I have had and the solutions thus far.

1.) One of the hexes in the wheels stripped so when you hit the gas the nut just spins itself off the axle instead of push the tire.

I fixed this by setting a longer pin that I made out of an Allen wrench into the axle and then notched the hub of the wheel for the pin to fit in. Problem solved. no more issues with that. I almost want to pin all my wheels but for now I will so as needed basis.

2.) Wing mount now looks like an S and one side actually broke off the shock tower. RPM mounts on order. I did read online that this was a must have upgrade but for some reason at the time I felt like I had spent enough money and would wait until the mount broke, well that happened day 1.

Will fix this with new RPM mount as it arrives.

3.) Front Turnbuckles were completely worthless, kept falling off, the plastic so soft and poopy it took no effort to push it back on, or off for that matter.

Thankfully I was prepared for this, one Youtube video (I watched 100's on the Kraton) this guy used RPM Traxxass ends, and ordered the OEM Traxxass ends to get the metal balls that go in the ends so I have the OEM and RPM in stock. So far the RPMs have worked great just as I knew they would. I was not waiting for both sides to break, I replaced both on the front.

4.) The front bumper broke clean off. Even with an RPM Bumper installed, the front bumper bent up and broke the screws off into the front differential case. So far the red mount hasn't fallen off and I still have my hinge pins.

So for this I am doing a couple things:

A.) replace front hub with Hot Racing hub on order.
B.) Instead of putting another OEM bumper to get hit and snap off again I will get a second red metal mount such as the one there or create something similar with the hinge pins blocked in. i will install this second brace like item in place of the plastic bumper. Chances are its lower profile and position wont take an impact with the RPM bumper installed which leaves me still having a bumper and something to hold my hinge pins in.

5.) Number 5 is what currently has me down because I did not anticipate this, but when I was tearing up the beach with my Kraton one of my Front CVD broke off at the ball end. I have been able to McGyver my way through all of the breakages, but I don't have extra Axles.

For this I ordered GPM Axles for a long term solution, I will also get a set from warranty from Arrma, and I also bought a set from a Ebay seller really close by to me, so should arrive tomorrow and get me back running.

6.) I was having issues with the front CVD popping from the outdrives of the Diff, this was really upsetting me. What I observed is the subjective side was not nearly as deep into the outdrive as the opposite side, and then I noticed how loose the Pillow Ball mounts where in the A arms (and hubs, but not relevant to this issue).

I fixed this by removing the pillow balls from A Arms and removed the Spacers, then re installed with blue Loctite. The pillow Balls have since not come back loose again also the axle stopped popping out as what I did put the axle deeper into the outdrive.. The red lock nuts for the hubs also got blue loctite, and yes this works even though it is plastic on metal, the concepts of loctite still apply regardless of materials used, its simply less effective.

I suspect that RPM A Arms which seem thicker and stiffer will have less flex and Aide in the ability for the front suspension to stay square and not twist out of shape which is the cause of them popping out I believe.

7.)Not an Arrma Issue, but my Yeah Racing Fans did not survive 3 minutes at the BMX Track

For this, I have a problem with all of the motor coolers I have seen out there. The Heatsinks just seem to lack mass of metal which allows the heat somewhere to go. Out of them all, without seeing in person I determined that the Yeam Racing seems to have the highest mass of heat sink. So instead of buying another Brand I am replacing the 2x poopy 30mm Fans that draw .3A each pushing( .6A Total) 5 CFM~ Each (10 Total), with a single 5V, .2A 60MM fan that pushes 15 CFM. I did the measurements and I can get it to mount to the yeah racing heat sink with a metal plate that is 3mmx70mmx70mm.

I am very excited about this because I hope that I can find a fan that wont grenade on impact; however, if it fails the first time I can buy various 60MM fans and change them out until I find one that is Durable, they are all the same size.

I was having overheat issues, Servo would work, but have no FWD/REV movement. Let it sit and it would come back. I am hoping the new fan will fix that. I currently have no fans. Running 14T Pinion. stock Kraton wheels

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I've had some issues with my outcast. Most of which is documented with the entire arrma line if your a serious basher. Before mine even made it out of the house, I had RPM front bumper, RPM arms and a T2T brace. My servo died before my first turn in the parking lot on the first run.

I'm only running 4S SMC 7400mah 90C packs. I average 22 minutes of run time on a pair. Skatepark I get 24-25, at the park, I get 19-20.

So far, broken or severely damaged and replaced:
Servo
Wing mount
Wheelie bar
Front diff ring gear (this was after properly shimming all 3 diffs and using 100k/500k/100k oil)
Rear tower
RPM rear lower arm
Front chassis brace
Front motor mount X piece (stripped when changing pinions, probably my fault)
Body is nearly demolished. Partly due to having a body cam on the side, caused a big split up one side, but it's severly damaged on the front/rear as well from chassis flex or the wing mount smashing it... or the ground.
Today I broke the front upper/rear hinge pin retainer.

I also had heat issues. I didn't run the stock tires at all. I went straight to a set of pro-line 3.8" trenchers. I had them on my brushless ervo and savage flux and I really liked them. Lots of contact area so they hold up well in skate parks and a tall side wall to cushion jumps. Without gearing down very low (13/50), the esc overheats. At first, the motor was overheating with 15/50, then I got a HW 40mm fan/heat sink. Motor temps dropped form 170F to 130F. Still, the ESC overheating was an issue. Having it geared so low on 4S didn't give me much control in the air and I couldn't jump that far. (that far... ha!). I ended up switching out the tires for some traxxas e-maxx 3.8 wheels/tires and now I'm at 15/50 or 16/50, can't recall, but it's plenty fast now and seems to last pack after pack without shutting down on me.

I'm 99% sure my diff issue was due to one of the diff cap screw threads being stripped. I'm having the same issue on the rear due to the stupid t-bone wheelie bar that is pretty much a necessity. The screws it uses to hold on don't bite into enough plastic in the diff/bulkhead, and they hold the top side of the diff cap on. I need to figure something else out for that because I don't want to be replacing stupid diff cases every weekend. Spend an hour and $10 to save a $40 diff. Fine to do once, but when I got home today, both screws are pulled out of the diff case again. This is the 3rd time!

All that said and done... the abuse the outcast can take compared to my HEAVILY modified revos (nitro and brushless) and my savage flux is night and day. I can't get half the air I get with the outcast without destroying those two trucks. Or do the countless backflips like I can with the outcast and still have diffs that aren't in pieces every bash.

The problem with the outcast is, you get to a point to where you just see how far you can push it. Well, I do. And I find out... You can push it pretty far. :)

I hope you get your issues sorted out. I was on the fence between the Kraton and Outcast when I bought mine a month ago. I went with the outcast because I tend to like shorter chassis vehicles. I like things a bit twitchy and on the edge. Adds to the fun.
 
I did have the issue with the tire coming off due to the hex on the back of the wheel being stripped. Not sure why this happened but it only seemed to happen when doing back flips. Other than that I beat the thing pretty good and am happy so far with how it is holding up.
 
Attached some pics to OP

I forgot issue #8

My kraton would randomly take off in reverse or fwd, called horizon support and they were no help. I found out on the forums or online that you need to calibrate throttle.

The couple times it took off it was bad and dangerous resulting in damage.

Also I need to unglue 3 more tires to tape them or find tires that don't balloon

I did one tire, took me 4 hours with acetone...

More pics
 

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I've had some issues with my outcast. Most of which is documented with the entire arrma line if your a serious basher. Before mine even made it out of the house, I had RPM front bumper, RPM arms and a T2T brace. My servo died before my first turn in the parking lot on the first run.

I'm only running 4S SMC 7400mah 90C packs. I average 22 minutes of run time on a pair. Skatepark I get 24-25, at the park, I get 19-20.

So far, broken or severely damaged and replaced:
Servo
Wing mount
Wheelie bar
Front diff ring gear (this was after properly shimming all 3 diffs and using 100k/500k/100k oil)
Rear tower
RPM rear lower arm
Front chassis brace
Front motor mount X piece (stripped when changing pinions, probably my fault)
Body is nearly demolished. Partly due to having a body cam on the side, caused a big split up one side, but it's severly damaged on the front/rear as well from chassis flex or the wing mount smashing it... or the ground.
Today I broke the front upper/rear hinge pin retainer.

I also had heat issues. I didn't run the stock tires at all. I went straight to a set of pro-line 3.8" trenchers. I had them on my brushless ervo and savage flux and I really liked them. Lots of contact area so they hold up well in skate parks and a tall side wall to cushion jumps. Without gearing down very low (13/50), the esc overheats. At first, the motor was overheating with 15/50, then I got a HW 40mm fan/heat sink. Motor temps dropped form 170F to 130F. Still, the ESC overheating was an issue. Having it geared so low on 4S didn't give me much control in the air and I couldn't jump that far. (that far... ha!). I ended up switching out the tires for some traxxas e-maxx 3.8 wheels/tires and now I'm at 15/50 or 16/50, can't recall, but it's plenty fast now and seems to last pack after pack without shutting down on me.

I'm 99% sure my diff issue was due to one of the diff cap screw threads being stripped. I'm having the same issue on the rear due to the stupid t-bone wheelie bar that is pretty much a necessity. The screws it uses to hold on don't bite into enough plastic in the diff/bulkhead, and they hold the top side of the diff cap on. I need to figure something else out for that because I don't want to be replacing stupid diff cases every weekend. Spend an hour and $10 to save a $40 diff. Fine to do once, but when I got home today, both screws are pulled out of the diff case again. This is the 3rd time!

All that said and done... the abuse the outcast can take compared to my HEAVILY modified revos (nitro and brushless) and my savage flux is night and day. I can't get half the air I get with the outcast without destroying those two trucks. Or do the countless backflips like I can with the outcast and still have diffs that aren't in pieces every bash.

The problem with the outcast is, you get to a point to where you just see how far you can push it. Well, I do. And I find out... You can push it pretty far. :)

I hope you get your issues sorted out. I was on the fence between the Kraton and Outcast when I bought mine a month ago. I went with the outcast because I tend to like shorter chassis vehicles. I like things a bit twitchy and on the edge. Adds to the fun.

How come you don't get hot racing diff casing its aluminum, not the cup, the whole bulkhead


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/362232972162
 
How come you don't get hot racing diff casing its aluminum, not the cup, the whole bulkhead


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/362232972162
$55+$24 for the cap, $99, then hope the bolts that I've been ripping out don't snap off and make the $99 case a piece of garbage. If I have to, I will. Hoping the alloy case works with the stock cap, because I don't see the need to spend $24 on an alloy cap that doesn't add much to the structure. Then at least it's just $55 for the case.

Will see if I can figure out an alternate solution before I spend the money on that. Thinking since I don't use the sway bars, perhaps I can run a screw through the back of that cap to put a nut on.
 
Well that's why I'm not putting back the stock bumper and doubling or tripling the front metal mount so there isn't anything to hit and the RPM bumper will still protect the front

I have a bulkhead coming for the front of mine but I will install with stainless screws that are stronger

Also since its metal if I break bolts you can drill it and retap larger
 
Well that's why I'm not putting back the stock bumper and doubling or tripling the front metal mount so there isn't anything to hit and the RPM bumper will still protect the front

I have a bulkhead coming for the front of mine but I will install with stainless screws that are stronger

Also since its metal if I break bolts you can drill it and retap larger
Your drill hand must be far steadier than mine. Any time I try drilling/removing something 3mm or smaller in an aluminum piece, the drill always walks and ruins it.
 
On mine, broken wing mount twice in one day but because it was 2F outside, so basiy bashing with frozen that would not bend.
Stock tires blew up within days, stock center spur and pinion gear, body is trashed, rear shock mount bent, rear hub bearings blew up... but this is rolling into the second year so not bad at all.

I have not had issues w the cvds,I do apply wd40 almost religiouy before bashing and if I am really gonna bash it hard for long periods of time, I carry a water bottle and spray into the cvd points to cool them off.

I never run packs back to back, always give time for the parts to cool off a little bit.
 
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