Eastwolf1228
Active Member
Hi, First build post here.
I bought this in Aug 2019 and ran it stock for a while before changing out the pinion to 15T.... running in grass for extended periods caused the motor to seize up maybe a year later. and so the rebuild started.
2 years later, there's not much remaining from the original V4. I'd say the only the thing left are the turnbuckles and arms
I bought this in Aug 2019 and ran it stock for a while before changing out the pinion to 15T.... running in grass for extended periods caused the motor to seize up maybe a year later. and so the rebuild started.
2 years later, there's not much remaining from the original V4. I'd say the only the thing left are the turnbuckles and arms
- Rocket 1730 KV 8042 unsensored motor without fan.
- Pinion, Robinson Racing 17 or 18T pinion
- Max 6 ESC with cosmetic wire looms. I think I shared a post about how's to mount this nicely to the standard ESC plate without the need for zip ties.
- Stock ESC fan didn't last (as usual). I have used Epoxy araldite to direct fix a 40mm Rocket fan to the ESC after removing the cosmetic HWing cover.
- Carbon Fibre shock towers from AmpedRC. This Kraton got me into 1/8 e-buggy racing, which I then traded for 1/10 indoor offroad. Short story - racing is a world with lightweight carbon fibre.... the stock V4 towers bend when you hit poles/fences, who would have thought.
- V5 Chassis. I note that there are some additional screw holes, but would seem to be a good fit after 2 runs (no sending yet until my RPM stuff arrives). V4 Chassis died after a chassis screw holding the rear chassis brace sheared off and I continued multiple backflips. I am not sure why I bought this chassis... it was USD28 from a parts breaker shop. Given I am only a medium rare sender, I didn't think an expensive M2C would be justifiable. Mr Google says EXB is not a straight transfer, so it was either V4 or V5 (which has the strengthening ribs at rear).
- RPM front bumper and rear skid plate. ***** Important note!!! These will NOT fit the V5 chassis, given the larger diff bumps. I have now ordered new ones.
- Vitavon wheel hubs, no more pillow balls popping off in future, albeit with weight gains
- my bald copperheads were replaced with backflips
- home made mud guards for rear
- Markhor CNC 6061-T6 Alloy chassis braces
- Banggood.com JX Servo Ecoboost 21kg servo. This is so underrated. I have yet to replace one in any of my buggies. Super fast response. Found it after watching that UK dude's videos.
- Sanwa MT-S Rx/Tx
- Proline Ford Raptor body.
- Diffs: 50k/500k/50k with 1 shim where needed if any.
- ABEC 5 rubber shielded bearings all around
- the Zip tie hack to tighten the poopy servo saver
- GPM red aluminum hinge pin retaining blocks, or aka A, B, C & D blocks
- GPM servo mount. Too be honest, I never had issues with the stock plastic one. I've added some locktite for good measure
- EXB steering ackerman bar
- EXB front upper hinge pin block and pins
- Also forgot to mention. Youtube has been an excellent teacher: Vent your tyres (Rich Duperbash) and you'll never have issues even when driving through puddles and wet grass, adjusted droop screws to prevent max droop from pulling on the shock eyelets, set EPA on radio to prolong servo life. For disassembly and/or diff maintenance: AlexRCFreak has excellent videos (It was a Talion, but same method). For shimming diffs, check out Bournemouth RC.
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