V4 Kraton Build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'm not sure the Hex6 has the same holes. I'll check tonight when I get home.

I might make a bracket out of aluminum for it, and maybe add some sort of rubber bushing to dampen some of the shock from landing. Still trying to find a durable esc fan that can take some hard landings (I ordered a bunch of different fans to see what lasts).
I'd be very interested in this fan testing, I find it so weird that the same fan that is in the blx85 is ok in that esc on heavy landings(well I get weeks out them), but in the max 6 they don't even last a full pack.
 
I'd be very interested in this fan testing, I find it so weird that the same fan that is in the blx85 is ok in that esc on heavy landings(well I get weeks out them), but in the max 6 they don't even last a full pack.
I’ve been replacing my Max6 fan with the Arrma fan for the blx esc, it’s the same fan.
 
Yeah, but it dies faster in the max 6 for some reason.

Speaking of broken fans, it didn't last 5 minutes (first guess, I can check the video) this morning. I've got an all metal fan up next, maybe that will survive.
The one on my BLX185 survived though. I'm not sure it got the air my V4 got though.
 
Speaking of broken fans, it didn't last 5 minutes (first guess, I can check the video) this morning. I've got an all metal fan up next, maybe that will survive.
The one on my BLX185 survived though. I'm not sure it got the air my V4 got though.
My blx185 jumps just as high and hard as my max 6, the max 6 just eats fans for some reason?
 
My blx185 jumps just as high and hard as my max 6, the max 6 just eats fans for some reason?
I think this was fan 4 or 5 that my Hex 6 has eaten. I even stacked orings underneath the fan for some shock protection.
I'm using the same fans between my Hex 6 and BLX185. The entire center section broke free with 2 blades left on it.
 
Is it the cage design lets more debris in? It is not good, started putting mesh over mine, but the jumps still destroy them. It is frustrating 4 fans is a lot in a short period.
 
This is kind of what I mean by breaking fans.
I seem to get total annihilation, not like a little burnout.

Hex6 is running 7.2v and the BLX 185 is running 6v. I'm thinking it could be there is just more energy with the faster spinning fan on the max 6 vs the BLX185. I'll try another fan before turning it down, I like the steering where its at.


Also, first time wearing a gopro while bashing. Going to try to document some of my shenanigans .
 
Well, this guy just kind of happened quick.
I wanted a second truck to bash while my V3 Kraton was cooling down so it could be non stop fun. I was on the fence about getting a Typhon (still may get one) or an Outcast, but I saw someone parting out the major components of a V4 Kraton. So I picked up this unrun, never scratched V4 Kraton slider.

I had a clear body for my V3 that I had wanted to come up with a somewhat loud paint job, so it became the new body for this V4. Two coats of transparent yellow backed with a metallic silver gives it a candy style paint job. Pictures don't really do the paint justice, it looks awesome in the sunlight. I swapped over V3 body mounts (hey, no clear V4 bodies yet). Since I have had great success with the Backflip tires I ordered a set for this Kraton (they really do transform the truck, at least over the V3 tires).
View attachment 38323

For electronics, I wanted something more than stock. I wanted this to be overkill. After hearing about the Hobbystar 4092/Hexfly Hex 6 combination, I had to have it. I went with the 1480Kv and 20 tooth pinion. I did the math in Excel and it should be right around the same top speed as the stock speed pinion setup, but run cooler, and with the extra torque of this motor it should be a rocketship out of the hole. Steering is performed by my trusted and cheap $17 amazon 20kg steering servo special. All tied to a Futaba radio.

View attachment 38330

After a bad crash with my V3 Kraton that folded and twisted the original chassis, I ordered GPM chassis braces and a metal servo mount for both. I'm a sucker for the price of their stuff. I order double of any Kraton upgrades to keep the durability of my V3 and V4 on par. All diffs were torn down, shimmed, and filled with 80k/200k/30k (front to rear) oils.

View attachment 38331

First test run on 4s worked out great. Spent some time dialing in the settings on the ESC to making sure everything was to my liking in my backyard. Felt like it had a ton more torque than the stock setup. With this one it also felt like my back yard got smaller, I had to get on the brakes a lot sooner before smashing into my fence. After hitting LVC, I checked everything over to make sure no screws backed out and prepared for the weekend.

I usually bash early on the weekends. I'll charge up every pack I own, make an entire pot of coffee, and head out before the sun is up. I'll turn up the music on my bluetooth speaker, sip some coffee, and launch RC cars in the air. Its therapy.

View attachment 38333

This setup is a home run. The gearing feels perfect, it is in fact a rocketship off the line if you can keep the wheels down. You don't have to be going that fast as your approaching a jump, just stand on the throttle when its at the base of the jump and it really does just launch into the air.

View attachment 38335

This truck just eats the jumps up. So much that It should be reclassified as an airplane. It flies really well, control in the air awesome with the extra torque from that 4092, and steering is great with the voltage turned up to the budget servo. 3 6S batteries through this thing on the first outing and zero problems. Jump after jump, it kept coming back for more. I was easily clearing 15ft of air, occasionally standing underneath its flight path.

Like throwing a ball with a Labrador, it came back with its tail wagging, begging for you to do it again.
View attachment 38337
Just a quick suggestion, since you just built this nice new rig, get you a front and rear set of TEKNO ET48.3 FULL OPTION SHOCKS, OR a front and rear set of the Team Associated RC8T3.1E shocks. I assure you if you've never used any of either of these shocks, you will be blown away by how well they support your vehicle, much better handling and you can tune them exactly to your liking. ARRMA's shocks are ok, but that's the one area I'm not a fan other than the weak shock towers
 
Just a quick suggestion, since you just built this nice new rig, get you a front and rear set of TEKNO ET48.3 FULL OPTION SHOCKS, OR a front and rear set of the Team Associated RC8T3.1E shocks. I assure you if you've never used any of either of these shocks, you will be blown away by how well they support your vehicle, much better handling and you can tune them exactly to your liking. ARRMA's shocks are ok, but that's the one area I'm not a fan other than the weak shock towers
How do they go for bashing, the Kraton is a heavy beast when it's upgraded with all these extras? I'd imagine that there are far nicer shocks out there, but are they stronger than stock, not in shock absorption, but in robustness?
This is kind of what I mean by breaking fans.
I seem to get total annihilation, not like a little burnout.

Hex6 is running 7.2v and the BLX 185 is running 6v. I'm thinking it could be there is just more energy with the faster spinning fan on the max 6 vs the BLX185. I'll try another fan before turning it down, I like the steering where its at.


Also, first time wearing a gopro while bashing. Going to try to document some of my shenanigans .
That is the kind of thing that's happening to mine, I was thinking of trying to make a cage around it or something?

Funny video man I'm subscribing!
 
Looks like those shocks have thicker shafts and a different piston design. Might look into it when I damage a shock. Doesn't make sense since it handles pretty well, and I can just as easily tune the stock Kraton shocks.

Just quick update on the Super Kraton. I had an oops today.
38853


Was at a big jump area and I knew my battery was getting close to LVC, so I stood inline with a bigger jump and let her have it. Unfortunately since I was in line with the car and jump, I didn't see/adjust accordingly for a nice log on the other side. I heard the bang and it sounded a lot louder than the normal chassis slap landings. It came limping back home with a busted shock rod end. I thought oh good, I have extras. I can let the car cool down while I replace the shock end. I didn't notice the bent chassis until I picked it up.

From just a quick inspection, bent chassis, broken T2T brace end, shock rod end, and of course a metal esc fan (just salt in the wound). Not sure if I want to cobble this thing back together or just order a M2C chassis.
 
Looks like those shocks have thicker shafts and a different piston design. Might look into it when I damage a shock. Doesn't make sense since it handles pretty well, and I can just as easily tune the stock Kraton shocks.

Just quick update on the Super Kraton. I had an oops today.
View attachment 38853

Was at a big jump area and I knew my battery was getting close to LVC, so I stood inline with a bigger jump and let her have it. Unfortunately since I was in line with the car and jump, I didn't see/adjust accordingly for a nice log on the other side. I heard the bang and it sounded a lot louder than the normal chassis slap landings. It came limping back home with a busted shock rod end. I thought oh good, I have extras. I can let the car cool down while I replace the shock end. I didn't notice the bent chassis until I picked it up.

From just a quick inspection, bent chassis, broken T2T brace end, shock rod end, and of course a metal esc fan (just salt in the wound). Not sure if I want to cobble this thing back together or just order a M2C chassis.
Actually you can't tune them as unless you find emulsion shock caps that'll work on the ARRMA'S & you'll have to install Tekno Springs, orange are the stiffest but I have the green Tekno's on mine right now and they are way better than stock ARRMA, but I will be installing the orange soon or if I can I will be installing the Full Option shocks on all 4 corners, I am also going to get a set of the Team Associated RC8T3.1E shock sets to try as well. Also another great upgrade are the M2C RACING diff cups, larger so they hold more fluid and strong alloy. While you are at it grab the M2C RACING GOLIATH chassis he makes for the KRATON AND OUTCAST, 7075 alloy, machined just right, very very strong
 
Should be back together tonight.

Used a spare chassis I had, going to keep this one as a reminder to look before I leap, and was able to make everything work out. I swapped out some of the dirt stained plastics for new ones that I've had laying around.
38960


So the Hex 6 ESC also has 4 mounting screw holes in the bottom (I never even checked before). The bolt pattern for those holes is approximately 22mm x 47mm for those wondering.

Getting tired of breaking fans on this thing I decided to dive further into why I think they are failing. I looked closely at the heat sink design and how the fan mounts on both the BLX185 and MAX6. I think the reason why the BLX185 doesn't seem to have this issue as bad, is that the fan isn't mounted as high as it is on the MAX6 (or Hex6 and its other rebrands). With the fan in place, I can push the entire center section of the fan down until it contacts the heat sink, and it doesn't feel like the blades reach the supports on the BLX185.

On the MAX6, the fan is mounted so high that as you are pushing the center of the fan down the blades will start to contact the supports. Now I don't think that is the failure mode. I think that the support arms just reach their limit on some of these big landings just because the heat sink design allows the fan to flex so much. So I think that the center of the fan needs to be supported so that it cannot flex or move on landings.

So either something needs to be added to the center of the heat sink, or the mounting posts for the fan have to be trimmed down.
I opted for option B, out came the band saw.
38964


Pretty sure I just voided my warranty. :oops:

I lost some of the overall mass of the heat sink, but if I can keep a fan running at all times, I think this will be much better. I cut the entire heat sink down so the fan will sit flat across it. The center section of the fan shouldn't move at all now.
38965


I have no idea if this will work, but it sounds right in my head. I'll report back after a couple big launches where I don't land on a log.
 
Not even a week of driving and I land on a curb and bend the new chassis. I think I'm going to just build a ramp and play in grass fields from now on. That way logs and the curb monster cant get me.

39475


The bummer about this is I broke an end on the T2T brace...again. Seems like the next shipment is the end of next month for just that part. Jennys has Kraton braces in stock though. :unsure:
39476


I guess its time to start the teardown for the new M2C chassis thats on its way. Might just do all new bearings and full diff service while I'm at it.
The only good thing about this is that my ESC fan survived.

Video of the curb landing. It still ran and I finished that pack.
 
Not even a week of driving and I land on a curb and bend the new chassis. I think I'm going to just build a ramp and play in grass fields from now on. That way logs and the curb monster cant get me.

View attachment 39475

The bummer about this is I broke an end on the T2T brace...again. Seems like the next shipment is the end of next month for just that part. Jennys has Kraton braces in stock though. :unsure:
View attachment 39476

I guess its time to start the teardown for the new M2C chassis thats on its way. Might just do all new bearings and full diff service while I'm at it.
The only good thing about this is that my ESC fan survived.

Video of the curb landing. It still ran and I finished that pack.
I like how after you hit the curb and landed on the roof, you just powered it through until it roof slid into the bushes ?
 
I've made a lot of recoveries that way lately, so it was just natural instinct to stab the throttle to try and get it to grab the front tires and flip.
I'm sure all of the diffs hate me.
 
Not even a week of driving and I land on a curb and bend the new chassis. I think I'm going to just build a ramp and play in grass fields from now on. That way logs and the curb monster cant get me.

View attachment 39475

The bummer about this is I broke an end on the T2T brace...again. Seems like the next shipment is the end of next month for just that part. Jennys has Kraton braces in stock though. :unsure:
View attachment 39476

I guess its time to start the teardown for the new M2C chassis thats on its way. Might just do all new bearings and full diff service while I'm at it.
The only good thing about this is that my ESC fan survived.

Video of the curb landing. It still ran and I finished that pack.
Your truck seems to have the same magnetism mine does. Not to metal, just anything hard and immovable ?. Since you laughed after it happened, then at least you get that it's all just part of the fun. M2C is a game changer, but I would still work on demagnetizing it or just find more wide open areas to bash in. If you want to try something different for a t2t, a tube secured to the chassis braces, but not touching the towers, has been working for me. I'm using a fiberglass pole right now. You need to be able to drill through it, so when you tie it down, it doesn't move fore or aft.
 

Attachments

  • 15590445318355663752584417459458.jpg
    15590445318355663752584417459458.jpg
    330.3 KB · Views: 54
  • 15590445532605300353312899124458.jpg
    15590445532605300353312899124458.jpg
    297.6 KB · Views: 52
Your truck seems to have the same magnetism mine does. Not to metal, just anything hard and immovable ?. Since you laughed after it happened, then at least you get that it's all just part of the fun. M2C is a game changer, but I would still work on demagnetizing it or just find more wide open areas to bash in. If you want to try something different for a t2t, a tube secured to the chassis braces, but not touching the towers, has been working for me. I'm using a fiberglass pole right now. You need to be able to drill through it, so when you tie it down, it doesn't move fore or aft.
It is all fun and games for me. I cant get mad when my poor decision to jump towards a curb end badly.

I like that brace you have. I might have to switch to something like that.
I do have some 1/2 inch aluminum stock I could make something out of.:)

I'll see if I can cobble something together for another rod end for the factory T2T brace, while I figure a more permanent solution for when my M2C chassis arrives (I got the email that it shipped (y)). Maybe all metal heim joints/rod ends, or I could just weld a tube attaching the two towers permanently.
 
It is all fun and games for me. I cant get mad when my poor decision to jump towards a curb end badly.

I like that brace you have. I might have to switch to something like that.
I do have some 1/2 inch aluminum stock I could make something out of.:)

I'll see if I can cobble something together for another rod end for the factory T2T brace, while I figure a more permanent solution for when my M2C chassis arrives (I got the email that it shipped (y)). Maybe all metal heim joints/rod ends, or I could just weld a tube attaching the two towers permanently.
Before you start welding, the reason I said it shouldn't touch the towers, is the amount of damage that will follow. My original t2t was a 1' square aluminum tube that went from tower to tower. It also included a threaded rod that was secured at either end. This design is great at eliminating flex, but dam, how much those tower ears would bend in on either side of the tube. The attached photo shows a worst case scenario. The new Arrma t2t addresses this issue by going case to case and not t2t. It's just a little weak in my opinion. Because I have the Hot Racing chassis braces and they have holes that run the length, it allowed me to fasten the new tube direct to them, and lock it in place. They are being pulled down hard on the dif cases, as well as using the chassis braces to create rigidity. So far, accompanied by the amazing M2C chassis, this set up is proving to be a great one. The only bending in the towers now, comes from hitting them directly in flips and crashes. Can't wait to see what you come up with.
 

Attachments

  • 20190505_160510.jpg
    20190505_160510.jpg
    548.2 KB · Views: 59
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top