V4 talion build

[Mattyd926]

So I’m about 85% done with what I want to do to my talion and was out testing lol and gone went my diff. Pulled the middle and rear out rebuilt both and when I went to reassemble all hell broke loose in my shop. All I can say is stainless steel screws 1 me 0. I went against everyone’s advice and installed stainless and on the first time trying to take the screws back out strip strip and more strip. Going back to reg screws. I saw these blue anodized screws I’m going to try next. Took the opportunity to clean up the rear end , sort of and just have to do the front tonight and drill out the dam screws in the center that stripped so I can set everything correctly between the 2 bulkheads. Some quick pics. Lmk What you think and and suggestions.thanks.

 

[NeverDun]

Nice Talion build! Just a side note. If hardware is anodized, it's probably aluminum. You don't want aluminum hardware, it'll strip way easier than the stainless. I feel your pain with stripped screws. I have cut slits in multiple screw heads with my Dremel to remove them with a flathead screwdriver. Particularly the ones with red LocTite on them. I wish RC companies would charge an extra 10 bucks for their kits and supply us with torx style hardware.

 

[Woodentop]

I too made the same mistake with stainless pins, better corrosion resistance obviously, soft as s**t, not so good.
Nice rig though.

 

[Mattyd926]

So after a little detour and 2 hobby shops later on the way home I was able to grab the black hot racing center diff mount and I had a hot racing motor mount I never installed due to the ez whatever diff setup on the v4s. I had a very interesting conversation with a old rc racer he owns a shop about a hour from me. Lots of valuable info from him told me to trash the ezmount and go back to the old one. Harder to service but keeps it firmly in place. I ended up doing 50-100-50 in my diffs and 40 in the shocks although this guy wanted me sooo lowww in the diff oil department. 5-10-5. He’s been racing 30 years and swears by this setup just thought it to be interesting as you get the exact opposite info here. Drag racing he said 250-500-250 on blacktop. Just wanted to share. I’ll post pics of the new setup later

 

[Mattyd926]

So today’s catastrophe.
So I know what I need to do to get going again my question is why . I thought a failed bearing but I was able to spin the stub left on the shaft normally. Anyone?

 

[jondilly1974]

I’ve never seen a broken motor shaft ???

 

[NeverDun]

Looks like your pinion set screw came loose and hit the mount. And/
Or you sucked a rock into the gears. How do your pinion and spur gear look?

 

[crashlandingrc]

So after a little detour and 2 hobby shops later on the way home I was able to grab the black hot racing center diff mount and I had a hot racing motor mount I never installed due to the ez whatever diff setup on the v4s. I had a very interesting conversation with a old rc racer he owns a shop about a hour from me. Lots of valuable info from him told me to trash the ezmount and go back to the old one. Harder to service but keeps it firmly in place. I ended up doing 50-100-50 in my diffs and 40 in the shocks although this guy wanted me sooo lowww in the diff oil department. 5-10-5. He’s been racing 30 years and swears by this setup just thought it to be interesting as you get the exact opposite info here. Drag racing he said 250-500-250 on blacktop. Just wanted to share. I’ll post pics of the new setup later

The Typhon comes stock at 7-10-7. Im hearing its better for cornering on the track

 

[Mattyd926]

Pinion a spur gear look undamaged

 

[NeverDun]

Weird. Did it happen when you landed a jump? That has to be from drivetrain shock loading, but it's still surprising.

 

[Rigcheck]

stainless screws are the spawn of the Devil

 

[Mattyd926]

So my replacement motor came today from Jennys RC two days to my door that place is great going to throw the motor in make sure everything‘s good then going to turn the outcast into a typhon sort of. Will post pics of the build

 

[Mattyd926]

Was off today so I ripped apart the outcast and talion diffs. Basically disassembled cleaned replaced anything that was worn out like the most expensive parts 43t spiral gear and a 13t whatever u call it outdrive front and back on both. There were so many teeth grinned down I couldn’t believe. Rebuilt with 10 50 10 silicone fluid (it was all I had) on the talion and 5 10 10 on the outcast I’m going to gradually step up the diff oil so I can actually see the difference. People are saying go with 500 in the center. So that is we’re i would like to end up . What are yal running on your outcasts to keep the wheelies to a minimum besides a different rig lol thanks

 

[Mattyd926]

So I know I just rant but it’s something I just need to do lol. So another 43tdiff spur and 13t drive gear toast. Brand new. Shredded after 20 min or so. So hope it was my fault. I rebuilt diff with 50000 and installed with shims on the outside of the bearing one on each side in the plastic Arrma bulkhead and I managed to squeeze 2 on each side in the aluminum hr bulkhead. I failed to grease the 13t and 43t and it was running dry I only can come up with the gears heated up after some time expanded and shredded if I greased them I think this would have been prevented. I’m once again changing diff fluid this time going 80k front 200k center 40k rear. I was on you tube watching a bashing video and they mentioned that diff oil setup for the outcast, it looked to be blasting away so let’s give it a go. New spur and 13t , fluids and away we go

 

[Mattyd926]

Looks straight to me . Lol So yea the time has finially come to buy me some shock towers for my outcast . I want to do this once lol. Who makes the strongest towers . Just bash it or m2c. Or are there other ones I just don’t know about . Thanks

 

[Mattyd926]

So I wrench hard last night cause I knew I would have a little time to bash , anyway I take my talion with a 4s and 6s pack. Started easy on 4 the thing was ripping. I had backflips on so it was more of a off-road vibe lol . All is good so I slap a 6s in ...go ok now she is really flying like better than new. I tried out some proline rubber bands on the fronts and what a huge difference it make. Almost no ballooning. So I hit the little jump land actually soft and bam thing starts doing donuts like crazy. Go and inspect and rear passenger side lol hardly turned when wheels lifted. So I get it on my bench at home and slap my ass and call me Shirley but the pin and sun gear inside the diff carrier was in 6 pieces. Frustrating. These vehicles can take soooo much abuse and be tough as balls yet so princess like at the same time. I call faulty from the factory. So I replaced what was broke file with 100k ( trying something different). Tested under load with no axles and smooth as a baby’s ass. Now I have to change the front gear box on the outcast cause a piece cracked off right by the screw. I believe it was from triple backflip attempts at a local skatepark . Fun times

 

[Lazarus Long]

The Typhon comes stock at 7-10-7. Im hearing its better for cornering on the track

Late to the party here, but glad to see your post. Old version of Typhon manual (v2?) gives diff oil as 7-10-7, as you say. The new manual for the v4 gives the weights as 7-100-7. 10 for the center sounds more reasonable for the track. It tracks more closely with the Losi and Associated setups.

The Typhon comes stock at 7-10-7. Im hearing its better for cornering on the track

 

[Mattyd926]

Making hella progress . I’m going to tackle the shock rebuild tonite with the m2c shock caps. Who runs these and what weight silicon are you running??

 

[Mattyd926]

Sorry meant to post this in another build thread I started and I can’t figure out how to delete it. Meant for kraton v4 build

 

[Mattyd926]

So the body work has begun. Just layed down my second coat of liquid mask on my j concepts finisher body . It’s not 100% designed yet but I usually design and build as I go