Kraton V4 Upgrade Fails (due to inexperience)! HELP Request

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Lighter might work.

I have a mini butane torch that was part of a soldering kit. I intended on using it for soldering wires when installing head units in cars, but never really used it for that. Now I just use the torch part for torchy stuff without the soldering head on it.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic-Lead-Free-Soldering-Kit/1000170991
Will this work?!? ?
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About to light my Kraton's B-hole on fire, pull her cup off, slap some grease in her hole, and finally screw her back together!! She'll be tip-top! I'm goin' in...
 
About to light my Kraton's B-hole on fire, pull her cup off, slap some grease in her hole, and finally screw her back together!! She'll be tip-top! I'm goin' in...
Wrap up!
 
DONE!!! The deer head torch worked like a champ!! Thanks for the "heat" reco! Here she is with new shoes (all be it stock) and ready to roll again. Servo turns them full on carpet and I can't hear that annoying crack sound when I hand roll her! I'll share some video next chance I get. I'm optimistic everything is in order...thanks everyone for your help!!
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If it wasn't for bad luck I'd have none... finally got Kraton back together and on first test run the center pinion gear slipped back towards the motor and was wearing and only half on the spur gear. Pulled off and fixed pinion gear by red LTing the set screw of pinion to motor shaft. Then on next run got 2 mins in and front tires seemed to not be spinning correctly and was severely slowing the truck down. Checking it out I spun one front titre and the other tire wouldn't spin correctly and cracking sound as I spun one tire! Figured front diff was the issue, but just rebuilt and nothing is wrong. No cracked or chipped tooth gears and shims all in place. Any ideas what my problem is? I did notice that a segment of where front A arm set rod connects to front bulk head the plastic had a chunk out of it and the arm is kind of flemsy. Anyone know what I should look for to fix???
 
Sorry to read of all the problems your are having, this is supposed to be fun and usually is. With the front diff: 1st, has your indrive cup come loose from the shaft. Sometimes this happens especially if the new lock title has not set for 24hours. If that’s not it try removing the centerdiff and spinning the front wheels to see if they act same way with the center diff out of the picture. Center diff could be hosed up. Hope it’s just the outdrive, even so it’s tough to get at but won’t cost you anything to fix.
 
Sorry to read of all the problems your are having, this is supposed to be fun and usually is. With the front diff: 1st, has your indrive cup come loose from the shaft. Sometimes this happens especially if the new lock title has not set for 24hours. If that’s not it try removing the centerdiff and spinning the front wheels to see if they act same way with the center diff out of the picture. Center diff could be hosed up. Hope it’s just the outdrive, even so it’s tough to get at but won’t cost you anything to fix.
I'll check that out as well. Thank you for the input. I'm new with Arrma so really appreciate experienced recommendations. I don't mind the work but I do get frustrated when I take it out on test run thinking all is well and there's another issue and I can't identify the problem. Can't wait to get the Beast running tip-top again. Luckily I have a Typhon and Notorious to run in the meantime. The upside is I've gotten very good at rebuilding diffs. ?
 
I'm still here wrenching on this Kraton as other obligations allow...usually after 9pm.

I checked the center diff and it checks out. I think I've narrowed it down to the ring and crown gear mesh and/or the recently installed sealed bearing. The center drive cuff is on solid. When I spin wheel hubs by hand it is very rough and occasionally catches and feels locked up. So I took the cover off the diff house and when the diff is off of the crown gear it spins smooth as butter. when i push it back onto the crown gear it's rough and catchy again! so it has to be that mesh, but I just replaced the stock bearings and inspected the crown gear and everything was fine...no cracked, worn or missing teeth on either gear. :unsure::unsure: HH sent me replacement crown gear so I'll put that in there and see if anything improves.

I also noticed a huge chunk out of the bottom of my front diff house where the A-arm connects with the rod which made the A-arm less secure than the other side...so I went on ahead and ordered the HR aluminum diff house for the front!! Figured that would help protect the front end as well. will add a little extra weight to the front but...oh well.
I'll report back after i get the HR house and new crown gear installed...for anyone still listening or has everyone gotten bored with my Kraton woes?? :cry:

When I finally get this thing up and running tip-top I'm thinking about doing a "lessons learned" video...it'll be riveting!
 
My kraton is requiring wide turns if any at all as well. doesn't feel like she's running like ahendis outnof box and that's about 6 batteries of use. More dow. Time than up recently. I'm keeping an eye on your thread for sure. I'm also ordering a new servo and servo mount (have a lot of flex right now) and maybe a servo saver too. Hoping those fix the turning issue. Best of luck!
 
Thanks for letting me know. I think it's just you and I...if I can help just one person through my suffering it'll all be worth it ?.
My HR front-lower suspension mount comes today or tomorrow and it's the final piece needed to finish the job...FINALLY!
I'll let you know how it runs with everything completed. Hopefully this week!
 
I agree with the other comments the savox is a must have in my opinion. I watched the video and that sounds like a diff issue to me. I’ve had similar noises in the past and when I went threw my diffs I had melted my center diff to the point the satellite gears were moving out of place. Might be something to check.

The steering blocks I personally always adjust off the rig and I tighten all the way and then back it off until the pillow ball will fall from top to bottom without help.

I love me Kraton but each rig has its weak points. I upgraded my center diff to a HR diff cup after I melted the first one. Bash on ?? and keep them rolling.
 
Is there something that can be adjusted to help reduce a tendency for the dogbone from slipping out of the cup on the front. Was doing some mild jumping and it kept slipping out on my Kraton. I need to replace the cups because of the wear, but wondering if there something that can be done to prevent???
I tightened the set screw on the inside of the a-arm that decreased the angle so the a-arm can't travel as much in the negative. Softer shocks??
 
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