Kraton V4 Upgrade Fails (due to inexperience)! HELP Request

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Is there something that can be adjusted to help reduce a tendency for the dogbone from slipping out of the cup on the front. Was doing some mild jumping and it kept slipping out on my Kraton. I need to replace the cups because of the wear, but wondering if there something that can be done to prevent???
I tightened the set screw on the inside of the a-arm that decreased the angle so the a-arm can't travel as much in the negative. Softer shocks??
Remove the spacers behind where the pillow balls screw onto the A-arms, both top and bottom.
 
Is there something that can be adjusted to help reduce a tendency for the dogbone from slipping out of the cup on the front. Was doing some mild jumping and it kept slipping out on my Kraton. I need to replace the cups because of the wear, but wondering if there something that can be done to prevent???
I tightened the set screw on the inside of the a-arm that decreased the angle so the a-arm can't travel as much in the negative. Softer shocks??
Along with what Bickety said you could try an o ring in the cups on each end. I think my stepson used the old ones from a diff rebuild in his typhon. I have another brand of 1/8th truggy and it has o rings installed in the cups from the factory.
 
Along with what Bickety said you could try an o ring in the cups on each end. I think my stepson used the old ones from a diff rebuild in his typhon. I have another brand of 1/8th truggy and it has o rings installed in the cups from the factory.
That might help on the rear with bones, but won't do much on the front with a cvd.
? Now why didn't I think of that?! Thank you!
I did the same on my outcast as they were popping out on one side with high frequency. I actually shaved the ends of the arms down 1.5mm or so as well as they still popped out after removing the shims. Has been fine since. Only one side though, the other side hasn't had the issue.
 
If it is a similar sound it doesn't matter, they will eventually slip on both breaking and accelerating. There is a way to test it, you can hold two wheels on the ground(front pair or rear pair) *be careful* and give the car a fair bit of throttle, if it makes the noise one way and not the other it is generally the wheels that are on the ground that the diff is playing up.

so what if it makes it front & rear when you hold the wheels to the ground, the rear ones are worse??
 
Hard to believe it's been almost a year to the day that i originally posted this. I've learned alot thatnls to this forum and The Beast (Kraton 6S) is alive and very well. She's still pretty much stock with a few upgrades and a recently replaced motor.
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Installed new SR315 Receiver to run with DX5C. Big improvement over the Tactic system that I replaced the stock Spektrum system with.
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Took Kraton out for a bash and did some sending. I have a stock chassis so I don't try to send to the moon. Mostly 10-12' vert jumps with occasionally hitting 15'. All heights based on my eyeball quesstimate ?. Did a nose plant from about 10' and used Kraton to find a rock in the grass...not intentional of course and not at full throttle, but fast enough to jar the battery connection loose. ?.
The damage at the end of the bash session was a dog bone popped out of the cup and the battery connection coming loose. Was able to get the dog bone back in and finish the session. Also, noticed that my front shocks likely needed more oil as the front was a little saggy. I couldn't believe i didn't break any of the STOCK A-Arms or F-up my steering on some of my poor landings. I share this to say that this is why I am an Arrma fanboy. I'm either very lucky (I'm not) or these things are truly built tough for their intended use and abuse. Bash on!!
 
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