Kraton Visual ID of v2 or v3 Kraton 6s?

[JHB]

Hello all, first-time poster but long-time lurker.

Later tonight, I'm going out to look at a used Kraton 6s I found locally on FB Marketplace. The pics from the seller show it's either a v2 or v3, based on the body paint scheme, tires, and black motor can. There's very little wear visible on anything (the chassis bottom is almost completely unscathed), which seems to support the seller's claim that it was only driven 3-4x, then put up for sale.

Are there any obvious visual clues, for an Arrma noob (but not an R/C noob) like myself, to indicate whether it's a v2 or v3? The box is included in the sale; are there markings on the box that will indicate whether it's a v2 or v3?

He's asking $550 for the truck, 2 batteries (Turnigy 5000mAh 4s 20c), and charger (Venom ProDuo 80w x2). I'm feeling like this is a bit much, based on looking at other used Kratons locally on Marketplace, so I was planning to offer $400 to start, with $450-$475 my final offer. Does this sound reasonable?

TIA!

 

[Lazy Bushman]

My only comment is that you might want to consider a better charger. I can’t comment on the diff between a V2 or V3 nor the market rate for used RC there in the US. If it was AUD then it would be a good deal if the condition of the stuff is good

 

[calabiyau]

I’m pretty sure those batteries need to be 35c or higher for a Kraton per Arrma specs. So if you throw out the batteries your basically paying retail. Others here might disagree especially if you can use those batteries in something else

 

[Lazy Bushman]

Yes 35c is min spec for Arrma

 

[JHB]

I’m pretty sure those batteries need to be 35c or higher for a Kraton per Arrma specs. So if you throw out the batteries your basically paying retail. Others here might disagree especially if you can use those batteries in something else

I'm new to lipo, so what's the harm (if any...) in using a 20c battery vs. a 35c battery? AIUI, the "c" rating is basically how much "punch" the battery will support. If I'm not doing full-throttle blasts all the time (which, as a noob to these trucks, I won't be...), would that be OK for a while?

 

[jondilly1974]

I'm new to lipo, so what's the harm (if any...) in using a 20c battery vs. a 35c battery? AIUI, the "c" rating is basically how much "punch" the battery will support. If I'm not doing full-throttle blasts all the time (which, as a noob to these trucks, I won't be...), would that be OK for a while?

You have a high potential of over discharging that battery too fast. Heat is a byproduct. Fire is a possibility.

 

[nino]

The batteries aren't up to the task and the charger's nothing to write home about.

Going lower C with batteries is a no-no. They probably wouldn't last long.

 

[JHB]

You have a high potential of over discharging that battery too fast. Heat is a byproduct. Fire is a possibility.

Gotcha. Battery fire=bad, regardless of source.
Good reasons to negotiate a lower price (or walk away). Thanks for the battery heads-up!

Any input on telling a v2 from a v3?

 

[nino]

V3 should have plastic caps on the shock screws (on the towers) and an updated battery tray - one strap along the battery, one smaller across, plastic cover in the front of the tray.

 

[Mr.Duke]

the front bumper is a good indicator to the v2 or v3 version of Kraton that's in question

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/how-to-spot-a-v3-kraton-from-looking-at-the-box.8488/#post-85406

 

[JHB]

Turns out it's a v3... and it's now mine. Needs a little love, but it's still driveable in the current condition. Ended up paying $350.
Threw a battery on the charger (followed Venom's setup instructions to balance charge)... after about 40min I got impatient, stopped the charge, and strapped it in.

What... a... BLAST!!

 

[Parabellum]

Wait till you try it on 6S! The Kraton is insane.

 

[Snackers]

Look at the drive train dog bones to check if they are 4mm thick or 5mm thick. V3 and above have the more durable 5mm. Fool proof way to tell