VITAVON DIFF HOUSING

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Thanks woodie but I meant bulkhead..somewhere in the states where I could get it in a week or 2

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Shipping from has been on point this year. I ordered odd sized shims on the 2nd of this month and It's in the hands of the USPS now.

I think Vitavon is just a person in China with a CNC machine, much like M2C, Scorched, etc... really doesn't have a worldwide distributor.
 
got mine in 2 weeks to northern Alberta. Not bad. Btw these are nicely machined. But the bottom deck height is short( exb 6s) you will need a couple gaskets for the ring gear to clear, I ended up removing material from the clearance slot in the chassis, now its a through slot. Had to do this frt and rear.
So far Ive had no issues with the diffs, they did machine them a little wide to accommodate different gaskets/alum diff housings so you will need a shim pack.
Edit: I went with Vivaton over HR because HR is 3 part numbers..lol. And the red looks pretty killer, close match also.
 
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Ok I see Im not alone on this.....what is that copper and a gasket? I have a M2C chassis on the way, Im not milling the slot into that one.
 
Ahhhhh, not sure why I never thought of this till I saw those gaskets, got a cricut to cut vinyl, it cuts leather like butter.....ya gunna CAD up some gaskets and grab the roll of felpro karopak collecting dust in the shop. Lightbulb. Thanks.
 
Might need shims on bearings......mine was 2 on ring side bearing one on the other.....yours could be different. Also the bulkhead to chassis needs some lift to clear the ring to chassis, dry fit and see. Also you don't want the ring pinion tight like everyone is saying in the Aluminum bulkhead, you want a little play, not tight. just like setting backlash on a real diff. The plastic bulkhead under load expands laterally which frees up some tooth gap. That in my opinion is the problem, with the gear cut and extreme loads and bulkhead expanding and improper OEM shimming leads to tooth skip.
 
Might need shims on bearings......mine was 2 on ring side bearing one on the other.....yours could be different. Also the bulkhead to chassis needs some lift to clear the ring to chassis, dry fit and see. Also you don't want the ring pinion tight like everyone is saying in the Aluminum bulkhead, you want a little play, not tight. just like setting backlash on a real diff. The plastic bulkhead under load expands laterally which frees up some tooth gap. That in my opinion is the problem, with the gear cut and extreme loads and bulkhead expanding and improper OEM shimming leads to tooth skip.
I just wanted to add something else I found. Both my front and rear pinions were not true, I noticed this after I got it all assembled, thought it was the cups, but the shaft was bent. I put them in the lathe and put an indicator on them .02-.026" out. I can only guess this is from the heat treat, seen it before on other small parts I had treated long time ago.
 
I just wanted to add something else I found. Both my front and rear pinions were not true, I noticed this after I got it all assembled, thought it was the cups, but the shaft was bent. I put them in the lathe and put an indicator on them .02-.026" out. I can only guess this is from the heat treat, seen it before on other small parts I had treated long time ago.

Hmm, I noticed this. I wasn't sure if it was the safeD cups or the pinion. I Tried new cups and it has the same wobble....
 
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